Question: Electroless Nic.

[randolfengraving]

I am starting a job that is electroless ni. with gold inlays. I have never done ni over gold. Do I need to inlay after the the ni or before? Thank you in advance for input.

Randy J.

 

[GTJC460]

I completely don't understand what an electroless nic is?

 

[Southern Custom]

It's just type of catalytic nickel plating. Unless you put some type of resist, the nickel will plate the gold. On the other hand you can't inlay with the nickel in place.

 

[SamW]

I have done it both ways...prepare the cavity prior to plating and then inlaying after plating and also using a resist painted over the gold prior to plating. Using the resist is the easiest if you are careful painting on the resist. If you go the other way, spring brass makes a reasonable tool with which to shape the gold after inlaying without marring the nickel(I am talking raised gold inlay). Gold line borders are another question all together! I have done them the first way, cavity, plate, inlay but was not too happy with the smoothness of the results. Would not even attempt resist.

 

[randolfengraving]

I have done it both ways...prepare the cavity prior to plating and then inlaying after plating and also using a resist painted over the gold prior to plating. Using the resist is the easiest if you are careful painting on the resist. If you go the other way, spring brass makes a reasonable tool with which to shape the gold after inlaying without marring the nickel(I am talking raised gold inlay). Gold line borders are another question all together! I have done them the first way, cavity, plate, inlay but was not too happy with the smoothness of the results. Would not even attempt resist.

OK thanks for the input. Maybe I will talk the guy into blue. RJ

 

[randolfengraving]

What did you use for the resist? RJ

 

[SamW]

It was a long time ago but I think I remember using Brownells earlier version of stop-off. The newer version, cut and peel is not as good and I never was happy with it. Fingernail polish might work or a good spar varnish would likely work but I would test both through the hot bath first to be sure. I prefer electroless on an all steel engraving and that makes an excellent working gun finish that is highly engraved. I always blasted the parts with 320 grit aluminum oxide at about 20 psi to knock off the chrome look. There was no significant loss of detail. I will see if I can find a photo to add showing this.

 

[SamW]

Ruger 77 with steel floorplate and electroless nickel plate. Note the detail in the sky. With electroless, the surface that goes in is what comes out so remember that any and I mean any mars will still show.