Diamond setting challenge...

[Gemsetterchris]

Hi all,

Having had a discussion with the boss of a company in Finland i have a challenge.

Apparently women here expect any ring to last forever under any usage.

Also, goldsmiths at retail shops size everything to suit their need rather than order correct sizes.:beatup:

If a problem occurs with either of above then it`s his (the boss) & my problem.

Here is the challenge:
How to do setting work that`s all of these...
Bulletproof, fast, cheap, neat, all at the same time :thinking:

Comments welcome

 

[didyoung]

thats funny..... it will never happen.
in the real world its all about making the sale..... as a goldsmith you will do all that you can to take care of the customer and the sales person.
there are some rings that you have to order to get the correct size, but most can be sized with a bit of luck and a steady hand.
its our job to size the rings for our customers. i would love to send eveything out and still get a paycheck, but that is not going to happen.

 

[Steveareno]

Hi Chris

I have the opportunity to work on many Vintage Platinum rings. They are handed down by Grandma to a daughter or granddaughter and just need to be sized to fit the new owner. It is amazing how they often still look brand new, even though they can be 100-150 years old. The stone setting typically is Bead set (Pave) or Flush set (gypsy). This type of stone setting is fast and does stand the test of time.

Steve

 

[Christian DeCamillis]

I agree with Steve. If you want longevity then platinum is the only way to go. It's also a dream to set engrave and with modern polishing compounds file sanding papers etc... It's a dream to work with. In my opinion one of the easiest and best metal to laser weld as well as solder.

Chris

 

[silverchip]

Gotta agree with all of these guys as I know that the nearest to perfect that you will obtain under these circumstances is still flawed because the equation includes us!!!!!!! But platinum is pretty cool stuff and cheaper than gold today!!!

 

[oiseau metal arts]

Every now and then you will still come across those customers who will need something 3 sizes different then what it started. That can put a lot of stress in most any ring design.

PT may be less $$ per ozt but it still takes more to fill the same amount of space.

 

[James Roettger]

I receive a lot of bran-new jewelry in my shop form other jewelers for engraving. Quite often I see the melle slopping around when I begin to engrave, jumping from the vibration of my air graver. This stuff will be back in a year with lost stones. Taking the time to get all those little diamonds tight becomes cost prohibitive for many manufacturers seeking high profit margins. At my shop I take whatever time is needed to ensure every melle is ultrasonic tested for perfect tightness. Sometimes I spend an hour inspecting and tightening pieces as they soak in the ultrasonic. A well done stone setting should last till the metal wears away which is usually long enough to convince the client it is their neglect of maintenance that caused the stone loss. I can say that in 30 years of jewelry making that stone loss is not an issue because I spend more time on quality control than most shops. Of course most bosses would see me and think I'm slow not knowing that the time I take today saves loss tomorrow.
I'm reminded of an occasion years ago where a jewelry store owner was admiring a stone setting in my window. When he asked how much I charged for stone setting his reply was, "Well that's kinda high priced." like he wanted the quality but preferred the lower average price of the market.

 

[oiseau metal arts]

james..... i set my stones unter the microscope, and not seen one come out in ultrasonic. im with you on making sure they are there for good. i want customers back to buy more, not to put something back together.

 

[James Roettger]

oiseau, A scope was one of my first major purchases. A mentor figure I knew early on used a scope to set and I followed his lead as he was one of the best jewelers I have ever personally known. He also, like the old masters, precarved all his beads into free standing prongs at a time when most just raised them up out of the surrounding metal.

 

[Brian Marshall]

Set in stainless and harden afterward? Size with a laser welder later? You didn't say it had to be precious metal...


B.

 

[Gemsetterchris]

I use a microscope & ultrasonic & never send out a loose stone.

The problem is..retailers buying just one size of ring.
I can understand that as it`s expensive otherwise, but knowing that there are alot of not so great goldsmiths about & knowing that certain styles (channel) are problematic to downsize...

Are the stones checked after?? who knows!

The thing is, any problems are directed to the manufacturer or setter who have already done their part....
I personally would have a policy of size at your own risk or order another.

Shame that companies suffer bad publicity
because of cost cutting, laziness or lack of skill or ethics by others..worse still by people in the trade!

Also..lack of educating the public about the limitations of designs..some of the public lacking common sense think a fully micro paved ring in 18ct will last the same as a single flush set stone in platinum.

 

[Brian Marshall]

Any job that comes in - if I did not make it or set it - gets a big red rubber stamp on the job envelope.

The stamp says CUSTOMER RISK and has a box for the customer signature and date...


Brian

 

[Gemsetterchris]

What if the job is a brand new ring in your shop window made by another company?

Most manufacturers supply stuff that they thoroughly check (with some exceptions of course).

I`d say any extra work carried out ie: sizing is the responsibility of whoever takes on the task.

Not to fire the flak of a badly done job back to the source?

 

[Brian Marshall]

Can't help you with that. Guess you'd have to get an ironclad guarantee in writing from the manufacturer that they'd make good on any failure?

If they trust your abilities and judgement? (There are always those "iffy" jobs)

I don't retail much more than the stuff I make myself. A few chains, findings and such...

75% of what I do is for other companies or jewelers.


B.

 

[Tira]

This is a quote I liked as soon as I heard it. I'm not sure who to attribute it to, but I think it is true:

Every business can afford to offer two: Quality, Service, Price......

James R. - it goes right along with your story about the man who thought your prices were high due to the extra time you take...

 

[Gemsetterchris]

Just as a final note: i think it`s also important for manufacturers to plan their designs carefully & to optimise the components (settings & stone sizes).
Without me coming across as being a fussy stone setter, small details do make a huge difference as to how quickly & safely jobs can be done.

There are alot of nice looking designs out there that are impractical for daily use, also alot of less than perfectly balanced designs that could have improved wearability if only the stone sizes were selected with more care.

Thanks for all your input.