Help, please: bulge battle

K Frei

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I Have spent several weeks thinking through a design for a knife, so i decided to bite the bullet and start cutting... I've been having trouble with bulges lately and sadly its already happened on this Knife I'm kinda heart broke:(. are there any tips out there to help make a mistake like this less glaring? if so I'd love to know some. Thank you! K Frei p.s. I really am tying not to have to use crutches like this, i'm just not there yet... please be patient with me, as i try to be with myself Thanks again K Frei
 

Ray Cover

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Ya a pic would help[ so we can see exactly what the problem is.

Hang in there. This does take a lot of practice and there is a fair learning curve too. Don't feel like asking for help is a crutch. I have been doing this for over 20 years now and I still run into things that I have never run into before. I seek out the advise of others when I need it. This engraving thing is so big you never learn it all. Folks here are happy to help when we can.

Ray
 

K Frei

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I Am sorry i will not be able to give you a picture as of right now, my computer is down, so I have to borrow one or use my I-pad. I may be able to bring it into work next week and get a photo... I Guess I could simply say my back bone doesn't taper evenly into the center at one point it gets wide again; it almost seems like a separated tire. the sad thing is I was trying so hard not to have this very thing happen.. K Frei
 

GTJC460

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Your backbone should be a constant width/depth as you really don't roll the graver on these cuts.

When cutting these, really try to think of your arm and wrist as fixed stationary vice link appendage. Most like your bulges are caused by you raising your wrist as you rotate the vice faster as the curve becomes tighter and smaller. Take your time, slow down and really try to control the graver and your wrist.

You are probably also trying to steer the graver around the cut. Again think of your arm/wrist as a stationary vice.
 

KCSteve

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Lee Griffiths has a wonderful book and DVD and in it he gives a tip I've never seen anywhere else:
Draw the first half circle of your scroll, then draw a line across it. The spine should cross it again not quite halfway across. The next crossing should be not quite half way between this one and the previous one, and the next not quite half way, etc.. He also recommends (along with most people) about two and a half turns total.
 

Lee

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Kyler, what you are describing and battling is common even for experienced engravers. They must remain on constant vigil. The question is whether the scribed/drawn guideline has a bulge or whether it is creeping in as you cut. It is vital to draw the guideline correctly to begin with. It may be helpful to use a circle template as a bit of a guide remembering that it is a suggested guide and not a definitive boundary. You have described in your first post what you would like to change so I have great faith that you will be able to modify your designs and cutting until you are pleased. If it's getting away from you in the cutting process consider a couple of things:
-slow down
-cut with a stitching type of stroke meaning that you cut forward a small distance, say 1/16-1/8" and then back up to check line direction and depth and then move forward again making the necessary corrections immediately.
-cut the initial line lightly then fudge to the inside or outside of that line on the second, deeper pass to give a more pleasing shape and correct what your eye tells you to correct.

Recognizing an area that needs attention is at least half of the battle and you have done that meaning you are over half way to where you want to be. Keep on plugging away and you will make it. I have seen great improvement in your engraving over the last year. Congratulations.:tiphat:
 

SamW

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"-cut the initial line lightly then fudge to the inside or outside of that line on the second, deeper pass to give a more pleasing shape and correct what your "

Per Lee's suggestion...I always cut the first line lightly and will go over it and correct the spiral as many times as it takes as I work it to depth. As I am filling a scroll with leaves, etc., I will see more areas of the backbone that need minor adjusting and do so at the time because if I wait I may never notice it again until I look at a photo after mailing off the piece. It usually takes a very minute shaving of metal along the backbone to clean it up.

As Lee says, it is a problem that we all have. I have been cutting scroll for over 40 years and still cannot cut an acceptable spiral on the first cut (except by accident).
 

FANCYGUN

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Another trick I have learned and actualy practice is....draw your scroll as carfully as possible. Look it over and make corrections. Now pivot the vice and look at it upside down or from any other angle and you will see distortions and errors in the curve you have not seen before. Now correct those. This is all down before any attempt is made to fill in the scroll with leaves or details.
 

K Frei

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Thanks to ALL of you! Especially Lee and Sam (Sam I would love to come meet you some time.) Lee you nailed it and I will try your suggestions, I spent a week correcting my scetch making sure it was right, and I drew it on the piece. I tried to cutt a little more last night, and right now I feel like its my worst work yet... I really hope I can make it look descent. Thanks again. K Frei
 

SamW

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I occasionally pass through St. G on my way to visit friends in Vegas. Next time I will let you know and maybe we can have coffee and a visit. If you are coming to the Moab area let me know and we can meet here also.
 

K Frei

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Sounds good! Ginger ale, will suit me a bit better. I'll look foreward to hearing from you.... My wife and I might head into Denver sometime this summer, if we can spring for it, if we do I'll let you know and we'll drop down to Moab. I need to come out that way sometime because with this computer crash I lost all of my photos of Arches.
 

JohnR

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Hello K Frei, yes it's all about graver control and that will come in time and practice. One other thing to consider is graver angle. A 120 degree is going to flair cut very easily with a small amont of hand roll. I use a 110 degree graver and it doesn't flair as much if I do roll my hand alittle. Also its a finer cut and allows me to go over and correct any imperfections on my backbones. Give it a try and as you get better change back to your favorite angle. Also keep your work centered so you're not chasing your guide lines. Hope this helps....JohnR
 
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