Help, please: Brass???? backstrap for an Italian black powder revolver

BKJ

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So I picked up fairly cheap, an Armi San Marcos (ASM) 36 caliber 1862 Colt police model replica with the intention of practicing on it from a local pawn shop.

I cut the cylinder without any problem. The frame I cut the lines on it and that was more difficult. So I thought to myself I will cut some lines on the bottom of the backstrap... which I thought would cut like brass practice plates....

.... WRONG!

It seemed to chip it was absolutely horrible! :mad:

What am I doing wrong or did they use some strange make up of metal in it?

Good god it looks like someone took a jackhammer to it!:( The graver was sharp!

I immediately ceased any thoughts of cutting on the backstrap or the trigger guard.
 

Sam

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Welcome to engraving cast brass. That's just the way some of it cuts. Sometimes it cuts relatively cleanly and other times it'll cut as you describe. It's been my experience that castings from cheaply made articles (cheap candlesticks, buckles, rings, etc) cut poorly and that castings from better made items usually cut better. I engraved a cast brass mandolin tailpiece recently that cut just fine. It was still different than engraving non-cast metal, but it was very well made and worked just fine. Poor castings often have pits and voids under the surface which wreak havoc on the hand engraver.
 

BKJ

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Welcome to engraving cast brass. That's just the way some of it cuts. Sometimes it cuts relatively cleanly and other times it'll cut as you describe. It's been my experience that castings from cheaply made articles (cheap candlesticks, buckles, rings, etc) cut poorly and that castings from better made items usually cut better. I engraved a cast brass mandolin tailpiece recently that cut just fine. It was still different than engraving non-cast metal, but it was very well made and worked just fine. Poor castings often have pits and voids under the surface which wreak havoc on the hand engraver.

Thanks Sam for the reply! I'm sure pros like you wouldn't have a problem as much as I did. I went from cutting the frame lines on the body which may have actually been case-hardened (not just colored) to cutting that piece of &%$#... LOL Oh well live and learn. I guess I just won't cut any more of the brass back strap or the trigger guard! Oh well, live and learn.
 

Lonestarr

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Hi all I think the problem is the same as I have turning brass on my lathe ....Brass alloy that has copper zinc and lead cuts like butter...straight brass as you say cuts like do do.....One thing I have noticed is that most brass objects that have threads or machining will cut smooth.....

Bob
 

Sam

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I wouldn't assume pros wouldn't have trouble with it. When you encounter things of this nature you have to recalibrate your attack on the metal. It takes more concentration because the unexpected can happen.
 

BKJ

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<"the unexpected can happen">

I would amend that to - the unexpected WILL happen.

It tends to encourage thinking ahead. What will you do if...


Brian

Yes Brian, I DID NOT think ahead!!!! I assumed that after cutting brass practice plates that, well, the brass backstrap would cut like that! Duh!
 

Lonestarr

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After reading about the problems that you can have, I took a cut on the back of all the cast brass pieces on a Thompson center fire black powder rifle that I am going to engrave. well my luck was good because it cut nice...

Bob
 

BKJ

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After reading about the problems that you can have, I took a cut on the back of all the cast brass pieces on a Thompson center fire black powder rifle that I am going to engrave. well my luck was good because it cut nice...

Bob

Bob, maybe it was just me? I am a newbie but with that said, I have never had such a weird cutting experience... well there was that non-magnetic stainless steel practice piece! LOL
 

DKanger

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I took a cut on the back of all the cast brass pieces on a Thompson center fire black powder rifle
In days of yore, TC used to use silicon bronze for their castings. I don't know if that is still the case or not.
 

monk

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use a bit of lube. that won't solve the problem, just may make it a bit more tolerable. some varieties will seem to cut ok for a few millimeters, then the dreaded subterranean pit ! be aware, if you do just a mm or two for a client, you're committed to the job-- no matter what. practice on some junk, cast brass from yer local junkyard. this will give you a good look at how some of this cuts.
 

BKJ

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use a bit of lube. that won't solve the problem, just may make it a bit more tolerable. some varieties will seem to cut ok for a few millimeters, then the dreaded subterranean pit ! be aware, if you do just a mm or two for a client, you're committed to the job-- no matter what. practice on some junk, cast brass from yer local junkyard. this will give you a good look at how some of this cuts.

Thanks Monk... good advice! However, I will never cut for a client as I am not good enough. This is just for my own guns and to have fun and see if I can actually make something that looks half a-- good. I am a computer geek by trade and will never take this up professionally. I am nowhere near the caliber of people who grace this board!
 

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