Bolo tips

[diandwill]

Not so much an engraving as a smithing question.

I have to make a pair of bolo tips for 8mm braided leather, so bigger than commercially available. My thought is to cut cones in flat and roll them together and solder. add some low dome saucer ends, from dapped circles, and embellish with engraving.

Does anybody have any cool tips that make this job much easier?

Thanks, Will

 

[DakotaDocMartin]

I've made them from sterling sheet using a large nail set as a forming mandrel. I clipped a zig-zag on the larger end after it is soldered so they can be formed over to crimp on to the cord. Usually 4-6 of them. Mostly for looks being that I epoxy them on anyway. For the tips, I would torch some wire or scrap in a little depression in a charcoal block to make solid beads. Those work well on the small end. If you want some sort of dangly on the tip, solder a jump ring to the bead.

You can make a template by wrapping a recipe card around the mandrel, mark and cut it with scissors.

Here are some I formed from wax sheet in the same manner and cast them:

 

[Dan W]

Rio Grande sells silver tubing up to 7mm. It will cut down your design/fabrication time. Flare the upper end and attach what ever you want to the bottom end. You will have a clean seamless canvas to work on.

Dan

 

[Brian Marshall]

Dan,

That might work for something else? But these are bolo tie tips he's asking about.

Adornments out of the Western cowboy world. Rarely seen outside of maybe 4 or 5 states?

He's got an 8mm braided cord to stuff in there... and Rio tubing doesn't come tapered down to 2mm at the bottom...


Brian

 

[DanM]

Rio grande does have 7.2mm "Sterling Silver Bead Cone" which may work.

 

[DakotaDocMartin]

Rio grande does have 7.2mm "Sterling Silver Bead Cone" which may work.

Those are only 17.48mm long. WAY too short. They need to be 40-50mm long to look right.

 

[Chujybear]

Could draw the tubing in steps the put a rough taper on it, then smith the rest.

 

[Brian Marshall]

C'mon... Drawing 8mm sterling tubing down that sharply (to 2mm) over a 60mm length, and smithing it smooth TWICE?

You gotta love going to the dentist... or having your foot run over by a car to wanna do it by drawing and smithing...


Or if you are gonna take 2mm tubing and try to flare it (smith it) up to 8mm, you'll be past 34 gauge material - almost transparent, by the time you get a 60mm length.


Pretty frustrating for a one time project. It takes some "uncommon" skill and tools to do it.

A tubing drawplate and a mandrel with a heavy enough base to either fit a hardy hole in an anvil or clamp the bejeesus out of it whilst thumping on it.

You'd also need an excess of tubing to grab with the tongs... and seamless tubing is about the highest priced mill product you can buy to begin with.

Sure it could be done, but why would anyone want to, if they have other options?


If you don't want to take the time to form and solder up the cones - IJS stocks them.

Flare those up or devise some sorta collar extension to get 'em up to 8mm inside diameter.

Make a few dollars and get on to a worthwhile project...


Just thought of a way. If you had 10mm tubing, a tapered mandrel, a lathe w/steadyrest & ball bearing center... then you could spin a taper down to 2mm!

Maybe even in just 2 or 3 heats? Hell of a lot quicker than either fabricating or smithing!


Brian


Yeah, I know it would be good for your soul and practice and learning patience... kinda like waterboarding builds character...

 

[diandwill]

Thank you for the answers. I had, in part, looking for a tapered mold and forgot about the nail set. That should do it. I want it to be fun, but not too painful!

For the beads, I have considered melting balls and flattening, but the charcoal block idea is probably the best/ I can then add some character too them.

Thanks again!

 

[Chujybear]

I don't mind dentists

 

[Doc Mark]

"I don't mind dentists "

Thanks! Me either!