An important tip Sam and Tira both left out of their lesson plans

[thughes]

I am sure Tira or Sam one must have covered this with me, or Maby they just assumed it was common sense. But never, never get half way through stippling the background on a project, then decide your stippling tool isn't sharp enough. Cause then you get to go back and do the first half all over again. Duh! :beatup:

Lesson learned, if you're gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough.

 

[Sam]

Yeah, if you sharpen the tool half way through, you can expect the stippling to be darker when you resume. Fortunately stippling goes fairly fast so it shouldn't be too much of a problem to blend everything in.

 

[Gargoyle]

thughes is right, Sam, you should have stipulated that in your lessons.

 

[thughes]

Nah, the real problem is, as Ron White said, "you can't fix stupid".

 

[fegarex]

Get used to it because if you stipple anything other than silver or gold you'll need to "freshen" the point of the stippler anyhow. It's pretty hard to do a whole background area on a gun with one point.

 

[Tira]

Yep - that's part of learning. Usually I make sure I know the angles on the stippling tip before I start so if it breaks I can recreate the same geometry. Also, most of the time once I'm finished I go back over the whole design in one direction and "comb" the stipple so the light reflects off all the parts evenly. Otherwise you have some that sparkle here and when you turn the project other parts will sparkle there... if you know what I mean.

 

[Sam]

Walter, you are a _ _ _ _ stirrer, aren't you! LOL

 

[Andrew Biggs]

Personally speaking............... I blame Sam for everything. It's just so much easier that way

When you resharpen your point, as Tira says, just lightly comb over the adjoining areas to even everything out and blend it in. When working on steel you are constantly resharpening your stipple point.

I don't know how you do it ..........but I use the GRS round carbide blank which are as hard as the hobbs of hell and they last a very long time even on 316L stainless. Shape the blank to a long tapered point on a gator wheel or super rough diamond disk by chucking it up in a cordless drill. Have both the drill and hone running............and sharpen on the power hone with a 1200 or 600 diamond disk using the same method. You have a new point in about 3 seconds.

If that doesn't work for you.........then blame Sam

Cheers
Andrew

 

[rod]

That's why I like to create a textured stipple point, by first stippling it into a diamond lap, it creates a reproducible texture that can be redone in a few seconds to the same consistency. I do take the point, pardon the pun, that there are times when a very small stipple point is needed for tight spots.

Rod

 

[Beathard]

So that begs the question, what have you blamed on Sam today?

 

[Andrew Biggs]

So that begs the question, what have you blamed on Sam today?

Everything from the crucifixion of the Christ, WWI and WWII plus the fires in Australia and the snow storm in Tokyo.

I figured that's enough for one day

Cheers
Andrew

 

[Gargoyle]

Personally speaking............... I blame Sam for everything. It's just so much easier that way

When you resharpen your point, as Tira says, just lightly comb over the adjoining areas

If that doesn't work for you.........then blame Sam

I have this sneaking suspicion that Sam doesn't know anything about comb-overs.