90 vs 105

[John Cole]

One of my New Years resolutions is to get back into my engraving and try to take it up to the next level.
My wonderful wife has helped me with this by getting me an engraving scope to help with the work. :biggrin:

I just recieved Sam's new video on scrollwork engraving, and had a question. (Awesome video btw, I am enjoying the heck out of it!!).
I notice that Sam is using a 105 degree graver. I had originally learned to work with a 90 degree graver. What, if any, are the differences between the styles of cuts, and is one style preferred over the other?

Also Sam made reference to a new sharpening tool available from GRS. I looked it up on their website, and the tool has several presets to help aid in sharpening the gravers. I noticed that the facets on the heel seem to be different than what I have been using. (I've been using a basic 45 deg. face with 15 deg. heels). What are the benifits of the new heel geometry?

I've been working with some of the grs practice plates and when I have I have something worthy, that doesn't look like hacked monkey turds, I'll post it up.
BTW: background removal isn't near as easy as Sam makes it look. *sigh*

thanks,
John

 

[Sam]

John: In my work I see very little difference between a 90 and 105 except that the 105 is less prone to breakage. Aside from that I just don't see much (if any) difference in the cut itself, but being stronger makes it well worth using.

The EasyGraver fixtures sharpen a nearly parallel heel as opposed to a non-parallel heel. It works really well. Give it a try. It will have less heel drag in a tight radius and the 105 is good for trimming sidewalls in relief engraving, which I did for years with a similar heel 90.

 

[Beathard]

Man you opened up a can of worms. Everyone has a different opinion on this one. I used to use primarily a 90. Now, with the purchase of the easy graver fixture, I'm primarily at 105.

 

[monk]

one geometry never fits all. in most cases, one geometry will do the work of others. it's all in the tool control. some geometries allow a more efficient way of acheiving your cuts. what's needed here is for you to try as many different geometries that you can. only you can determine which is best for you. unfortunately this takes time. if you settle for just one, i feel you'll be cheating yourself. and once you find the one that's just right, you may find yourself changing the face angle a bit. you may also find yourself changing the heel. one thing for sure- if you plan to cut .small or tight curves, you want a very short heel. this prevents gouging of the side of the scroll. proof of this ? look at some of the previous posts./// most all engravers have skads of gravers. all sizes/shapes. i have lost count of how many i have.

 

[thughes]

Well, there you go. Sam starting a controversy AGAIN.

 

[monk]

the key for newbies is to experiment to find what's working, and what is not. today, gravers are the least pricey of all the crap we all seem to end up using. heck, one can make them if your budget is really low. if i knew how to do it i'd start a post "how many gravers in your collection". if i did this, sam would likely give me my pink slip !

 

[Beathard]

I have many, but for most work I end up with one go to geometry. I believe that this is true for many engravers.

 

[Sam]

Monk: remind me to post a pic of my graver collection when I get home

 

[silverchip]

I use a two sided 90*a lot!!!

 

[James Roettger]

Being a jewelry engraver 90 is deeper so I use it when I can. I use various wider angles as the metal gets harder and doesn't need to be as deep to wear well. I also use wider angles when heel drag is a factor as they have less drag when combined with a parallel heel.

 

[BrianPowley]

I don't use anything wider than a 180!

 

[tim halloran]

John: I actually have a 130 and 140 degree gravers that i use for background removal. They cut very shallow and also very wide. They could also be used for double bevel but would be hard to control.