Question: 20% heel

[Jared Eason]

Has anyone tried a 20% heel ? I'm new to hand engraving and use 304 stainless steel for my work. I tried a 15% 17 1/2% 10% and either kept digging in or couldn't keep an even line depth wise. Kept breaking tips to. But the . 20% seems good for me so far. I'm using the Enset. Just wanted to hear anyone else's opinion on the 20% heel. This is on a 120% geometry

 

[firephil]

I use a 20 heel on harder stuff and it works well. That 304 stainless is really hard and that is probably why your tips are breaking

 

[oiseau metal arts]

try out a piece of 416 stainless.

I use 105 graver, 50 face, 15 heel.... cuts like a champ.

 

[silverchip]

I use a 25* heel and a 35* face for Bright cutting silver. Add up the ###### and see what total included angles you use for GP engraving and then add a little more as the material gets tougher!!!!

 

[mdengraver]

What percentage heel do people use with bronze?

 

[Jared Eason]

I am someday going to try 316. But I get a really good deal on scrap sheet stainless 304 from a friend of mine who has a metal Fab shop. So right now its not really a preference thing , but more as what I can get at good cost. I am use to welding and working with 304 anyway . So if I can engrave it efficiently its a win win....

 

[Scottyd]

I really struggled with 316 stainless (which I ordered by mistake) but 416 was not bad to cut. 303/304 was usable but not as easy as 416.
Scott

 

[Arnaud Van Tilburgh]

I too sometimes use 50° face and 20° heel, sometimes 35° face and 25° heel and even 45°face and 15° heel cuts nice.
And sometimes I use 60° face without a heel.

arnaud

 

[Sam]

My advice would be to use a nice, soft practice material when learning to engrave, and graduate to harder materials later.

 

[GTJC460]

Sam makes a great point. Mild steel or brass is very easy to cut as a beginner and it's not expensive. If you want something that won't rust up or discolor quickly, I'd suggest getting some Cronite steel in thin sheet. Their 18 ga is cheap and it has a coating on it that resists rusting nicely. 2"x2" plates will cost you about $0.90 each from Cronite.

The number for Cronite is 973-887-7900 and the website is www.Cronite.com


I believe they also sell copper too.

As for graver faces and heels, I almost always use 45/15 combo. On harder materials I will up the face to as much as 55-60'.

If you have trouble maintaining consistent line depth and width I suggest lengthening your heel before trying new geometry. Longer heels make it much easier to keep the graver tracking in a straight line at consistent depth. It can become a problem in tight curves but you will quickly develop a feel for it. On the tight curves with the longer heel try raising you wrist to prevent drag through the curve.

 

[Tira]

I'm with Bert on this. If you use a longer heel - probably a traditional heel and not a parallel heel - then you will mitigate the porpoising up and down and will be able to control the depth better. If you are breaking tips a lot I would go with a 55 degree face with your 20 degree heel. I've used this combination for hard metals like stainless and titanium for years. If you keep your elbow up and don't drop your wrist in the turns then you will not have drag. If you drop your wrist in the turns then this heel combination will drag on you. It will be to your advantage to get something easier to cut at first. Better to undertake one challenge at a time and not make the learning process harder than it needs to be. Easier metals are more forgiving on the graver and don't make it break so much. The more experience you gain the less you will stress the tool and then cutting in the harder metals won't be as difficult.

 

[Gemsetterchris]

My advice would be to use a nice, soft practice material when learning to engrave, and graduate to harder materials later.

I actually found mild steel a lot easier to cut than silver which is abit too soft & can complicate things..I guess you should pratice on material that you will use most to get the feel of it.

 

[DKanger]

Are you moving your graver as you follow your lines? Sound like it to me. This is the most common reason why newbies have trouble with porpoising and breaking tips. Gravers are like metal lathes in that the tip stays stationary and the work is turned into it. That's why ball vises rotate. Unless you are cutting long straight lines, this is probably your problem.

 

[Jared Eason]

Thanks . Will try softer metal to get the basics. I do not have a ball vise. But do have a Brady block and a homemade turntable I made with old casters. Thanks again for the tips, advise and opinions.

 

[Jared Eason]

Also Tira what's the differences in a traditional heel and s parallel heel?

 

[Tira]

In a traditional heel there are two triangular "heel areas" that come together on the bottom center line. These work like a plow and keep the graver wanting to go straight. Turning may be accomplished as long as you don't drop your wrist. If you do drop your wrist then the back of the heel drags around the turn. In the parallel heel the "heels" go up the sides of the graver in what looks like a "V". At the bottom they also must line up on the center line. These turn more easily, but have less linear control and want to move and not track as straight. You can do wonderful engraving with both types of points, but each has its own learning quirks.

 

[Jared Eason]

I think I understand. I have Sam's DVD on graver sharpening. So if I understand correctly, on his 120 he demonstrates a traditional heel? That's how I been doing my heels. Looks like 2 triangles meeting at center line.

Thanks Tira..