Transfering Art

Can someone give me a way to transfer my art work to the bolster of a knife or anything else for that matter without redrawing it.

The method I use requires a printer that uses toner. Simply make acopy of your work, then lay the copy down on the piece and rub a towel wetted with acetone across the back. Warning image will be in reverse. Try it on some scrap first. There is a lot of very good info on this in the "Tips from Cafe Members" part of this forum.

also try this, a very comprihensive list of methods of transfer http://igraver.com/image_transfer.shtml

Darnew,
Many of the modern engravers are using computers, but if you don't have one, you can make an acetate scratching, providing that your drawing is actual size, but it will be backward of course meaning you will have to draw it backward to get it to come out right for the side you are going to put it on. You can reduce you work down with a copy machine at your local quick print I think. The acetate is a way you can do it at home. I use James Meeks system of reduction if you have his book. If you don't, I will go into it further in another post if you like.

Hello Ron !!! I think that s another fine idea of you!!! I m sure I m not the only one who wants to hear more about that.. greetings Frank

Ron, I still do not understand the process with the acetate. My drawing is pencil and is the actual size. Yes I have a computer but how dose that help? Iam guessing that I could scan the drawing into the computer to reduce or inlarge it, but how is the drawing transferd to the work. And where do I get acetate and how dose it work?

Try this link. THere is a lot of info on transfering artwork there.

http://www.engravingschool.com/private/transfers.htm

Ray

Once you get the art work the size you want it for the area it is to consume, tape a piece of acetate to it and scratch it into the acetate with a very sharp scribe, but don't go too deep. Remember you will have to reverse your art work, but then that is why I draw on tracing paper. You need a burry roughish line that will hold graphite or smoot from your oil lamp. Rub it into the scratching and apply tacky wax to the surface where you wish to transfer it. Hold securly while burnishing. You might have to play with it some and practice, but it will give you a rendition that you can follow, just don't get you acetate too complicated. It is good for exact positioning as you can see through it. It is not good for detailed stuff, only major important lines for confirmation of anatomy and such. There is a little experimentation to getting it right, so you might have to practice it a little. You can get acetate at an art store or office supply. Get very fine grain tracing paper there too or maybe velum. Velum works very good but is more expensive.
Ron S

Ron, that's the technique I use and that my father taught me. Its great in that you build up a collection of acetates over the years. If your computer goes down for any reason you can still engrave. I think computers are great but there is a danger of over reliance on them.

Marcus, Right on! There is still great value in some of the old ways and I would much rather be dependent on myself than a machine. Having used the hand tools all of my life, I could still go out on the trout stream if I choose and sit under a shade tree and engrave and watch for the trout to rise. No electricity, no artificial light, Just me and the steel. I love those old tools and you are exactly correct.

Ron Smith said:

I could still go out on the trout stream if I choose and sit under a shade tree and engrave and watch for the trout to rise. No electricity, no artificial light, Just me and the steel.

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Hi Ron........ now that sounds like my sort of workbench.