Colt Custom Flare Cut

GTJC460

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Bright stainless colt custom 1911 I just finished. I can now say I'm a professional graver sharpener! About every fourth cut chipped my graver. This was an exercise in persistence. Ultimately I was able to tweak my graver geometry to a configuration that provided good strength.

Lesson to be learned is to experiment with your geometry till you find something that works for you!
 

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GTJC460

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Thank you.

For the pictures, I use the clouddome and my iPhone. It's supper easy and only takes minutes to do. I'd highly recommend get a clouddome setup. Gerry Beathard sells them if you are interested.
 

Marrinan

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That came out real well. The combination of flare cutting and your standard leaf cut at various location is a surprisingly nice combination. Well done. Fred
 

Donny

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Very nice job! Did you polish it beforehand yourself? If so what grit level did you polish to?

Donny
 

GTJC460

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These guns come from Colt in a mirror polish. Colt doesn't cleanup the dirt though, so they are filthy! They only make it in 38 super. It's for a very limited market and the guns themselves are not very easy to get. On the resale market they command a premium for factory new 1911's.

They are a bit daunting to start working on, because it's not easy to fix any accidental marks like if you slip when laying out borders. Usually they require a very light pilishing buff afterward. There's a few tricks I use when doing the final assembly to make them perfect.
 

Ed Westerly

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Well done, Bert. I have just finished the slide on a high polish stainless Colt 1911, and I agree that there is a tremendous amount of graver sharpening that has to be done. I have found that Glensteel flats hold up the best, especially when you use a 55 degree face and 20-0 heel. X-7, c-max, carbide, etc. just snap at the corners and scare the crap out of me, so just Glensteel for me! (by the way, the slide I'm doing is 100% coverage and relieved and stippled backgrounds!!!)
 

GTJC460

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Bruce....ugh!! I'm not crazy about relief in stainless guns. I'd rather whack my graver hand with a 10# sledge hammer. I just use a HSS 120. I was using various combinations of face and heel. Ultimately I ended up using a 120 with traditional long heel to allow me to make the wide bright cuts.
 

JJ Roberts

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Bert,Try the Lindsay Universal geometry with a 50 degree face and M42 graver steel,I cut stainless with no problems with out any lube.Remove the background by cross hatching with single point graver J.J.
 

GTJC460

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I cut 90% or more of my work in stainless. I usually don't have any issues doing my normal style of work which is finely shaded american scroll. These flare cuts in stainless are a whole different animal. It's a massive load on any geometry.
 

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