Lindsay sharpeners for GRS quickchange?

Can the sharpening guides sold for making the "Lindsay point" work (or be modified) for my GRS quick-change gravers? How much better is the Lindsay point really? Is there a "low tech" way to get a consistent edge without the
diamond hone system? My bench is already full!

I wish it were possible

Eric,

The Lindsay sharpening system is a very easy to use system and gives very consistant results. The problem is that you have to remove your graver from the QC holder each time because the Lindsay system requires you to position the length of the protruding graver precisely to get the proper face angle and heel angles. So, even if you did modify the Lindsay sharpening system to accept the GRS QC adapters all your graver blanks would have to be the exact right length and after a couple of sharpenings that would not be the case.

You can get the same results with the GRS sharpening system, it just requires you to use a little more grey matter, and takes just a little bit longer most of the time.

I use both methods but, I end up using the GRS system more since I usually don't want to take the trouble to remove the graver blanks from the QC holders.

Mike

Like Mike said - you can use the Lindsay template based system with gravers you keep in QC holders but only if you're wiling to take them out of the QC collet to sharpen them.

And you can get the same graver geometries using the GRS Dual Angle system but you have to figure out the angles to use and the order to use them in.

Since I'm lucky enough to have both systems I can tell you that I mostly use the 'matching' sharpening system - with my GRS I use gravers kept in QC holders and sharpened on the Dual Angle and with the Lindsay I mostly use gravers sharpened with the templates. But some gravers are just too useful not to use on both systems so I have some gravers I have to take out the QC collet to touch up and others that I sharpen with the Dual Angle for use in my Lindsay Classic.

The Lindsay Parallel point is designed to be better in tight turns and for me at least, it is. When I'm doing very small letters I like to use a Lindsay point to minimize heel drag.

Steve has directions how to grind the parallel gravers on his web site. I have done this and it takes some time on the first grind

Whichever point is better is a matter of personal preference. Try 'em both and decide. I've never found an advantage of a parallel point in my work, but there are those that do.

I saw a parallel point graver on Winston Churchill's bench several years ago and asked him about it. He said (paraphrasing) "oh that tool...I never use that one".