Announcement: Easy annealing of precious metal

John B.

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In order to not hijack Ethelbert's "Draw Plate" post I offer this as an adjunct.
That post had moved into the area of annealing before and after drawing wire. What I offer here is mostly for the newer craft persons.
Most of the old timers have their own methods.
Friend Dave A. (aka. Silverchip) asked for some pictures of my "Diving Board" method of annealing precious metal.
This is a pretty fool-proof method of annealing with no melt downs.
The secret to annealing wire is to wrap it neatly, evenly with no exposed loose ends.
I wrap it around three fingers and then take the last 6 inches and over-bind the roll.
Lay the roll as flat as possible on the diving board.
Apply the heat to the bottom of the plate until you see the roll move and relax down flat to the plate. Then just tease the flame over the top of the material for a moment as you push it off the diving board with a screwdriver or equal into the waiting "swimming pool" below.
There is no exact temp required to anneal gold or silver for inlay.
As long as it is hot enough to make a spitting sound when it enters the water it will be lead soft, fully annealed.
Sheet gold or silver inlays or plain sheet stock can be annealed the same way.
This method has worked for me on all colors of gold except with limited success on the red gold’s. For that I now rely on someone with a temperature controlled oven and use the Oppi Untracht method from his "Metal Techniques for Craftsmen."
This method also works on silver and copper wire or small sheets.
I have not tried it on 14K or lower.

In reverse. it also works for the initial hardening quench on small steel gun parts or small steel tools like gravers. When re-polished these steel items can be heated to temper draw temperature and quickly plunged to stop the action.
For some steels, oil should be substituted for the water.
The picture of the rolled wire is not great, the Macro would not click in.
If anyone needs a better look I will dig out another camera and try for a better shot.

Hope this is of help to some.
Best.
 

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Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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John, great tip on annealing.
For pure gold and silver, cooling it down in water works indeed, but some alloys you better cool them on a charcoal block so the metal cools down for some time, as cooling to fast can harden some alloys, like steel.

arnaud
 

silverchip

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when John was showing us this method,we were scoring 1-10 depending on sizzle and number of flips before it hit the water!!:shock::big grin::thumbs up:
I still use this myself as I do some silver wire inlay on steel,and to answer your question about kt gold and sterling,yes it works for that too!!
 

Willem Parel

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, but some alloys you better cool them on a charcoal block so the metal cools down for some time
arnaud

Important to mention, better not to do this with white gold on charcoal.
The charcoal will effect the smoothness of the gold negatif.
I know, it's about gold for inlay (so not white gold) but Arnaud is talking about alloys.
 
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Phil Coggan

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Been annealing now for a few years :big grin:

It's no big deal...it's not brain surgery....for wire, just roll it around something like a pencil, hold it over a flame,(obviously with the pencil removed) if you've only got a candle...that will do! Get it hot, a dull red will do...dunk it in water.

For sheet, just hold the corner with a pliers and do the same. I do this for everything I inlay and it's soft, except for certain alloys like red gold which only gets a little softer.

Phil
 
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FANCYGUN

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As I am doing wire gold inlays, I just pass the wire through an alcohol lamp flame until it is a dull red and the wire droops. Then just dunk in water and hammer away. Like Phil says.....it's not brain surgery.
 

John B.

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Tira, thank you for posting it. It may help some inexperienced people.
The indirect heat prevents any melting and bonding of the wire that some had reported.

Marty and Phil.
No, it's not brain surgery.
And I stated this post was for newer engravers who were having problems annealing.
 
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FANCYGUN

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John
I think the most important thing you showed us here is how to coil/wrap the wire for annealing. Having the wire in a mass as you have shown is the trick to not melting a large quantity of wire while heating it up. I use my little alcohol lamp as i'm setting my wire and also to re-anneal the end that may work harden as i remove it as excess wire from what was previously inlayed this way i can continue on with my lines or whatever nice and easy.
I do think however that most newcomers to our craft do have a tendancy to over think many things. It all is really quite simple( usually)and a few wonderful tricks AKA techniques like John always shows us works wonders. Can't wait for the book to come out John
 

fegarex

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I agree with Marty John...
I can't wait for the book to come out too!!
:)
Seriously, that is a really good tip as usual. I do like Marty and use an alcohol lamp but trying to do a lot of wire with a torch can end up being a disaster and the idea of the "diving board" is neat.
 

Nathan Ott

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Actually silver must be cooled down in the water, and gold - in pure alcohol (96%).

I think quenching gold in alcohol must be more common in Europe than here in the states.

I was trained to do it (my master was Dutch), but I've worked with 3 other goldsmiths in the US and none of them has ever heard of doing it.

In my opinion it's the best way to go if you want the metal as "soft" as possible, especially when working with white gold alloys.

Edit: I just read a post where someone talked about cooling on a charcoal block. This works fine, but if you do it with a nickel-bearing white gold alloy you will be very sorry, as the nickel will become contaminated by the carbon.
 
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Christopher Malouf

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Glad to hear you decided to do that book John. Now that's something I can't wait for!!


-----

It's definitely not brain surgery but it is physics and much closer to rocket science but who's arguing with the gurus anyway. ;)

Now here's one for fun ....

What is the velocity of 12" of 18ga, 24k wire just as it leaves the 4" long steel "diving board" positioned at an incline of 38.7 degrees where
= .4?

For extra credit ....

At what temperature has the gold cooled down to just before it hits the water assuming the "diving board" is 6 inches above the surface of the water and the gold begins sliding as soon as it reaches annealing temperature?
 
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FANCYGUN

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The velocity depends on if you picked up the hot gold with your fingers or tongs. It flies faster off of fingers
 

John B.

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Chris M,
Now you're cooking with gas!
Love your equation.....That get’s it close to brain surgery or rocket science. :)
And the couple of brain surgeons I know are in awe of..... Hand and foot surgeons. Go figure!
The original and inspired art part of engraving might be close to “brain surgery.”
Beyond that the rest of engraving is experience, craftsmanship, hard work and close attention to detail IMO.

Chris M and others,
I am planning no book. I see no point in it.
James Meek, Ron Smith and others give great information in their books for those who need it.
The Internet and forums are also making good information so readily available and free.
There are now many good classes and schools available to most in America and Europe.
The interactive video classes such as Chris DeCamillis and others developed are available worldwide.
As Roger Bleile posted the other day there is a good engraving book written that can’t find a reliable publisher.
 

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