Practice on a curved surface

Roger Bleile · Jul 30, 2010

You have heard it mentioned that you can't keep practicing on flat plates if you want to master engraving skills. I came across this picture on Gem City College's engraving page that will give you a good idea of how to mount a copper plate for practice. I suggest this is a good way to start before going to highly curved surfaces like a piece of copper tubeing.

Cloudy · Jul 30, 2010

that's a great idea! Thanks!

silverchip · Jul 30, 2010

While I understand the principle of practicing on a curved surface very well,how do you propose to do a layout on a highly domed surface such as a 2"dome?and make it repeatable too?

spank7357 · Jul 30, 2010

Mr. Bleile, I have been wondering about a source for practicing work "In the round". I already use the door kick-plate as a source of brass plates for practice and more. I will use your jig. Thanks again. Spank

Roger Bleile · Jul 31, 2010

silverchip said:
While I understand the principle of practicing on a curved surface very well,how do you propose to do a layout on a highly domed surface such as a 2"dome?and make it repeatable too?

Chip,

A good example of the problem you are posing is the recoil shield of a single action revolver that every American gun engraver has to deal with. If I just have one to do I draw the design directly onto the gun. This is an example of why one can't depend on transfers for all of your design work.

If I were doing a matched pair I would draw the design onto the first one then make a smoke transfer of it using vinal tape that has been slit around the circumfrence to help it conform to the sphere. I then transfer to the second one and make corrections with a pencil because it will never come out perfect.

This all points to the fact that you have to be able to draw and not be entirely dependent on transfers. I once asked Leonard Francolini what he dislikes most about the engraving process and he related it was messing around with transfers to duplicate a design from one part of the gun to another. He has been a master engraver for 40 years and doesn't have a simple cut and dried solution to the issue. If someone does I sure hope they post it here.

RB

mitch · Jul 31, 2010

silverchip said:
While I understand the principle of practicing on a curved surface very well,how do you propose to do a layout on a highly domed surface such as a 2"dome?and make it repeatable too?

it's a little cumbersome for just one transfer, but if you have a series of repeating patterns like all the spaces on a revolver cylinder or several guns/parts, you can make a rubber mold and use it as a stamp with some ink or dykem. John Rohner showed me that trick 30 yrs ago. one of the quick set RTVs that come in a pair of tubes might work.

i should probably expand a bit on this... make the mold as soon as you have the absolute minimum construction lines cut on the first piece. no shading, no background- just the bare minimum to establish the layout. maybe even just the borders & main scroll 'backbones' with no interior leaves, etc. this will avoid confusion among the lines when you stamp subsequent parts. and as Steve notes below, any sort of quick set caulk would probably work, because even if it required a little wax for a release agent you're not trying to replicate any superfine detail.

KCSteve · Jul 31, 2010

mitch said:
it's a little cumbersome for just one transfer, but if you have a series of repeating patterns like all the spaces on a revolver cylinder or several guns/parts, you can make a rubber mold and use it as a stamp with some ink or dykem. John Rohner showed me that trick 30 yrs ago. one of the quick set RTVs that come in a pair of tubes might work.

I'll bet one of the quick set caulks would work too - and Wal-Mart sells those cheap!

silverchip · Aug 1, 2010

Thank you for your replies gentlemen.Some good input

Dulltool · Aug 1, 2010

I agree with Roger 100%.... learn to draw directly on to the gun. When I do pairs of SAA's I draw and redraw until the second gun looks very close to the first ( you will get good at this). I personally enjoy seeing the slight differences between the two.

ETHELBERT · Aug 2, 2010

I have been using spoons as practice to engrave on curved surfaces...quite challenging and you can practice your cuss words while doing this also.

mdengraver · Aug 2, 2010

I Went to Gem City College for Engraving

I remember using that very same jig. As a matter of fact I still have it.
It is a great way for a beginner to learn how to cut on curved surfaces!

monk · Aug 3, 2010

the single curve, as shown in rogers' post is easy, as a flat transfer will simply conform nicely to the single curve (of the cylinder ) shape. this becomes problematic when the object curves in 2 directions. one will, as roger mentioned, have to cut relief slits in the transfer to allow it to more easily conform to a double curve. if you have to do a bunch of layouts that present problems- duh ! charge "aggrivation money".

Mike Fennell · Aug 7, 2010

A friend made some hand-hammered-copper basins for a fountain and gave me the very irregular peened and domed cut-off pieces to practice on. They are great practice plates and just the challenge I was looking for.

Mike Fennell

Practice on a curved surface

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