Newbie work

I hope you dont mind me posting this as the standard is not flash, 4 1/2 months of practise. I can only do 1 hour a night and that is 1 week in 2, because of my roster. But it is fun.:thumbs up:
I find this forum and Ford Hallam's very encouraging.

Heres some inlay. My first ever go at it. The wire is just plain copper from a power lead. The pattern is 30mm x 30mm x 30mm
The lines are about 1.5mm.
The straight raised line is slightly less.
The prepared line gives an idea of how I achieved the raised effect.
1. Cut a line
2. Undercut the edge and push the edge back a fraction
3. flatten the wire slightly to a sort of rounded rectangular profile.
4. Lay the wire in the slot and tamp it down.
5. Using a rounded chisel graver. push the edges back to shut the wire in place.
6. Stone the scratches and remaining raised bits away.
The flat inlay I found easier but I got carried away with the hammering in bit..
1. Same prep of the line except it is wider.
2. Put the round wire in the begining of the line and hammer it into the "trench"
3. Using a chisel graver level the surface taking copper and steel together.
4. Stone it flat

Got a long way to go as you can see. The hammering in stage left some marks.

That looks pretty good for a first attempt.

And yes, the punch marks are a pain in the backside. Prevention is better than cure

Time and practice will take care of that.

Just keep at it.

Cheers
Andrew

Cheers Andrew. I dont suppose Ill acheive master status but competent would be nice One day

First shot, eh? Cool!

That's better than I could do....(actually I never tried....so I'll assume it!) You make me want to try it, though! And I find your 'human/beginner error' refreshingly honest....it's always about enjoying the journey, eh?....no matter the medium chosen. (but of course the cafe is really about one medium!) Thanks for posting....I'm a newbie, too!

That looks pretty good, as have your other early attempts.

One thing, however. It seems as though you are doing most of your work on washers. Layout and cut and finish a shape, incorporating the washer hole for a pendant bail to be added, and with just a little more finish work, you are producing gifts...free advertising. Your friends will be honored to receive something like this, and others will begin to enquire after the origins, and VOILA'. You will be building a customer base, and creating a market.

As the demand grows, you can begin purchasing better metals (or not, as the mood strikes), and become known as the guy to take things to to get them hand engraved. Before too long you may have to choose between sleeping and your first job.

That looks pretty nice, other than the hammer dings, as you say.
Very nice Celtic pattern.
Another way you might like to give a try is to cut your line and undercut as you did.
Just lay your wire in the start of the line and seat it with a hammer blow to a 6-7mm, 1/8 inch piece of brass brazing rod used as a punch.
This will eliminate hammer marks.
The bottom of the punch rod should be filed flat with barely relieved outside edge and lightly textured by striking it on concrete or sand paper.
Put the punch next to where you have set the wire into the line, angle it slightly back towards you while giving it repeated taps and "walking" it down the line.
When you have the wire all seated just sand the top with sandpaper or stone to remove the top surface that is work hardened by the punch blows.
Next burnish the top of the wire with a polished steel tool until it shines brightly.
This assures you that it is fully seated into the undercut and then there is no need to roll back the raised steel lip from the undercut.
Sand or stone it flush and the top of your inlaid line will be as true as the channel you cut.

I realize you are using what is at hand in a remote area and getting your wire from a stranded electrical cable. I mention this because yo might try some from an extension cord to obtain thinner wire for more practice. This is pointed out because you mention your lines are about 1.5mm or .060 inches wide.
A pretty normal gold line inlay would be .55mm or .025 inches or less wide.
If the steel is blued or shadow lines are cut next to the inlay line this is plenty wide enough to show up in bold contrast.
Keep going, you're doing great.
Best regards.

Thank you very much for your replies.
I shall go back to my room (donger) fired up and ready to try again.
I agree about the incorporation of the shape into the design, Ill do that

I think it looks great, you have planted the seed now and I will have to try inlays.
Good to see another Aussie on here, are there any others? Ty

lots of us
Rod

Ditto

Roger

Do you bloke do engraving for money or pleasure?

I'd like to interject---you appear to be punching the undercut from the sides instead of actually cutting it out, which is perfectly OK.
Before you hammer in the inlay wire (gold,silver,platinum,whatever),
take a few minutes to sand down (or stone down) the surface of the metal a bit.
Punching the undercut is displacing the metal and sometimes the top edges of the original channel get a little distorted and that can make the line look a bit jagged.
Sanding them down "cleans up" those top edges just enough to make your lines look razor sharp---and they really will be.
I almost always use a brass punch for setting the inlay. Brass is harder than the inlay material but softer than the steel---no marks.

Hybridfiat,

Do you bloke do engraving for money or pleasure?

Generally for pleasure while I'm improving the skills but every now and then I get a paying job - being careful not to promise something that I'm not confident of doing properly.

Roger

Thanks for the tip Brian Ill try that next week. Ive got some brass rod and Ill make a stippled punch to use on inlay.
Ive done one job so far that has not been for education or pleasure and it was some simple roman lettering on a BA yoke at work. Property of etc.... Im not doing paid work until my standerds are consistently high.