bright-cut tutorial.

diane

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Dec 8, 2006
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Big Sandy, Montana
Hi Brian. I just found your post. (After spending the days sitting at my bench, I loathe sitting at anything in the evenings!) Your tutorial was spot on. Great job. I do call the "smile" cut a crescent cut now. Makes more sense. Thanks for taking the time to put it up. Diane
 

Big-Un

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Hey Brian. I was impressed with your work while sitting next to you in class, but the more I see of your work here, it's turning more into awe! Thanks for the tutorials and I'm practicing them more and more. Rex should be proud of you, as well as Diane.
 

Haraga.com

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Skiff
brightcut scroll

Well, I am not sure I really have the years of experience to put much weight behind a tutorial, but Diane Scalese taught me bright cutting and she is a good teacher, so here goes.
1. I have wriggled the backbone, I used a 37 flat 40 deg. face and no heel I use the low hand technique and over exagerate the wrist roll to get this type of look. I wriggle counterclockwise and keep the edge of the tool on the outside edge of my guide line. Also I have made the 1st cut the 3 step sequence the "backhand cut". I use a 45 flat with the heel rolled from 20-5 deg. highly polished. It should be broke off squarely at the end of the cut.
2. This is the bright cut, to make the bullnose ending, at the end of the cut drop your hand and kick the graver up and to the northeast, if you are facing north. The rolled heel helps with a clean leave. Stop your cut short of the backbone to give room for the "capcut".
3. This is the "cap cut". It lines the bright cut, It should be somewhat light, I have a bad habit of getting them to heavy, it should just accent and crispen the edge of your bright cut.
4. Here are all the cuts with leaf size tapering in size as you go, the last cut is a "combo cut" it has a backhand and bright cut but no cap cut.
5. Here are the "closer cuts", The first is just a variation, note the last closer next to the nob should cross the backhand cut. Also the "smiley cut" (Dianes term not mine) is added to accent the nob.
6. Here is the finishing sequence for the nob. Snap the cuts off squarely at the end.
7. Here is the start of lining, I use a 18-10 bent liner with face rounded for ease of cornering. I start with one tooth in the metal at the thin end of the leaf and roll it flat as the leaf thickens.
8. Here all the leaves are lined, keep in mind the lining must flow smoothly with the leaves. Keep only the teeth of graver cutting, you should have several fine peels coming out of the metal.
9. Here is the cross hatching, to achieve this stand the tool, a 28-8, on end with the corner in the metal and give your vise a turn, roll the tool flat as you go.
I hope this is helpful, and I hope Diane get her computer fixed so she can log in and give you her expertise, she is a Master bright cutter, and her skills as a teacher are as good as her engraving. She could also critique my plate and show you some things not to do as well.:eek:

Revisited post.
 

Brian Hochstrat

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yep that one came from way back when. Wait until this forum is 10 or 15 yrs old it will be fun to look back and see what has changed. This forum is a bit of a time capsule.
 

4w_engraver

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Jan 3, 2017
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Tooele, utah
Is there any pictures to show this better? I think im doing it right, but would like to see just to make sure. Im more of a visual learner, so i feel dumb that everyone else gets it, but here im asking for pictures
 

mitch

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Did the photos disappear with the recent photobucket(?) changes? Could those be restored somehow? Maybe even by sending the shots somewhere else first, to be stored/saved in a compatible, Cafe-friendly format/location? (IT is not my thing...)
 

John B.

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Brian, thank you for re-posting the pictures of your bright cut scroll and flower plates that match up to your excellent text post.
I'm sure this will help many, myself included.
 

Dale Hatfield

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I was just working my way to the end. Thinking I have them saved from the last time they went awol. Great Lesson . Thanks
 

papart1

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what was the point geo on the bright cut plates please? paps
 

T.G.III

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1. I have wriggled the backbone, I used a 37 flat 40 deg. face and no heel I use the low hand technique and over exagerate the wrist roll to get this type of look. I wriggle counterclockwise and keep the edge of the tool on the outside edge of my guide line. Also I have made the 1st cut the 3 step sequence the "backhand cut". I use a 45 flat with the heel rolled from 20-5 deg. highly polished. It should be broke off squarely at the end of the cut.

7. Here is the start of lining, I use a 18-10 bent liner with face rounded for ease of cornering. I start with one tooth in the metal at the thin end of the leaf and roll it flat as the leaf thickens.

Marcus here is the flower you asked for. Again it is on a brass plate 2"x2" same as the scroll plate, copper would be better but I have none so we are stuck with brass. All was done with a 45 flat accept for the shading


Not sure as I've zero experience with this style but found this information in the body of the text, think the instructional CD's would be a great addition to this tutorial.
 

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