Japanese beauties
- Thread starter santos
- Start date
someday i'm going to run out of words to describe the completely beautiful work that is presented on this forum. i cant think of a new one, so beautiful and totally unique will have to do for these 2, santos.
ken dixon
Elite Cafe Member
wow, that is excellent work, beautiful colors. Thanks for the tutorial.
Ken
Ken
Tira
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Thanks for the tutorial! I moved a copy to the Tips section. 
Do you have to prepare the titanium by acid etching or giving it a satin finish? I've heard that titanium will anodize without such a process, but it will have more vibrant colors with the etch. Do you process the metal before the anodizing? Also I have seen that the higher the voltage the more washed out the colors seem to be. Have you found this to be true?
Do you have to prepare the titanium by acid etching or giving it a satin finish? I've heard that titanium will anodize without such a process, but it will have more vibrant colors with the etch. Do you process the metal before the anodizing? Also I have seen that the higher the voltage the more washed out the colors seem to be. Have you found this to be true?
Hi Tira, thank you for moving the tuto .
Perhaps can you edit it and correct my syntax faults ? I’m sorry for my scholar English. I ‘m not using any translators , so all these faults are mine
You’re right, I’ve noticed too that the more titanium is polished, the more the colors will be vibrant .
I’ve not try acid etching , but I’ll try it soon . A chemist friend of mine is preparing me the mix of acids described at that link : http://www.electrochem.org/dl/ma/201/pdfs/0384.pdf
So I’ll try electro-polishing
Actually I’m doing a very high polishing with sand paper grits # 1200, then 2400 and 4000. I'm using alcool to lubricate.
And Yes I’ve the problem with the “higher†colors. They are less uniform and less vibrant than the blues. So, color palette is limited and you can’t get a nice red or a green
Best regards
Jean
Perhaps can you edit it and correct my syntax faults ? I’m sorry for my scholar English. I ‘m not using any translators , so all these faults are mine
You’re right, I’ve noticed too that the more titanium is polished, the more the colors will be vibrant .
I’ve not try acid etching , but I’ll try it soon . A chemist friend of mine is preparing me the mix of acids described at that link : http://www.electrochem.org/dl/ma/201/pdfs/0384.pdf
So I’ll try electro-polishing
Actually I’m doing a very high polishing with sand paper grits # 1200, then 2400 and 4000. I'm using alcool to lubricate.
And Yes I’ve the problem with the “higher†colors. They are less uniform and less vibrant than the blues. So, color palette is limited and you can’t get a nice red or a green
Best regards
Jean
dbrodhagen
Member
Great work, thank you for sharing. Especially love the coloring effect. Thank you, David
peteb
Elite Cafe Member
Titanium coloring
Having seen many examples of garish coloring of titanium jewelry from the 1980s, I can appreciate how well done and beautiful your pendants are. A major concern of the anodized surface is how thin the oxidation is and the implications of normal wear and tear on it's durability. I wonder what the effect of anodizing would be if applied to a series of parallel cuts in titanium. The depth of the cuts would protect to a better degree the delicate colors but what would the eye see? Also coloring of bulino work, what is the effect??
PeteB
Having seen many examples of garish coloring of titanium jewelry from the 1980s, I can appreciate how well done and beautiful your pendants are. A major concern of the anodized surface is how thin the oxidation is and the implications of normal wear and tear on it's durability. I wonder what the effect of anodizing would be if applied to a series of parallel cuts in titanium. The depth of the cuts would protect to a better degree the delicate colors but what would the eye see? Also coloring of bulino work, what is the effect??
PeteB
Arnaud Van Tilburgh
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Jean, the Volt of the Rhodinnette goes only from 0 to 32V. So it not enough to have all the colours one need.
I also leaned that the more amps one use, the faster the colour appears.
But as I know something about electricity, it is not the Volt that is dangerous, it is the combination Volt and Amp.
The ignition of a car for example is more than 16.000 volt, one can have a shock when touching, but it does no harm.
So I suppose that for colouring Titanium you don’t need 2 amps at 130 Volt.
I will found out and perhaps you don’t have enough amps on the 110 - 130 V range and is that the reason the greens and reds are harder to make
arnaud
I also leaned that the more amps one use, the faster the colour appears.
But as I know something about electricity, it is not the Volt that is dangerous, it is the combination Volt and Amp.
The ignition of a car for example is more than 16.000 volt, one can have a shock when touching, but it does no harm.
So I suppose that for colouring Titanium you don’t need 2 amps at 130 Volt.
I will found out and perhaps you don’t have enough amps on the 110 - 130 V range and is that the reason the greens and reds are harder to make
arnaud
Barry Lee Hands
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
A fabulous tutorial, now I will have to buy all that equipment, you are costing me money!
Hi Jason, Monk Ken and David, thanks for your nice comments.
Hi Pete: First Welcome to the forum and thanks for your comments. In normal wearing there is no problem. However the Ti oxyde layer is very thin , it's quite resistant. And generally, women skin is not very abrasive.:big grin:
I've not yet examples of anodized bulino , but I'm working and trying it.
Hi Arnaud :
You are right the colour appears quickly when the current density is high. We are working in little areas : we don’t need a lot of current . My power supply can deliver 0,25 A and I’ve to limit this current at 0,1 A when using voltages above 70 V .
The problem comes from the tool and the Ohm’s law P= RI² . When the current exceeds 0,15A the heat increases and the tip of the toothpick begins to burn .
I’ve not the same problem when bathing the entire plate ( in the tuto when anodizing the sky) : I can increase the current up to 0,25 A.
Hi Peter, thank you
Hi Barry, thank you
I’m a fan of your work , and your tutorials inspired me to do this one !
I’m really sorry to cost you the 120$ of the power supply .
http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/lowcosioubep.html
When you’re not anodizing it can provide electric current for your radio , for the led lighting on your microscope, for charging your phone etc
You have mixed etching and bulino , and I’m sure you’ll do great things with this kind of technique.
Greetings
Jean
Hi Pete: First Welcome to the forum and thanks for your comments. In normal wearing there is no problem. However the Ti oxyde layer is very thin , it's quite resistant. And generally, women skin is not very abrasive.:big grin:
I've not yet examples of anodized bulino , but I'm working and trying it.
Hi Arnaud :
You are right the colour appears quickly when the current density is high. We are working in little areas : we don’t need a lot of current . My power supply can deliver 0,25 A and I’ve to limit this current at 0,1 A when using voltages above 70 V .
The problem comes from the tool and the Ohm’s law P= RI² . When the current exceeds 0,15A the heat increases and the tip of the toothpick begins to burn .
I’ve not the same problem when bathing the entire plate ( in the tuto when anodizing the sky) : I can increase the current up to 0,25 A.
Hi Peter, thank you
Hi Barry, thank you
I’m a fan of your work , and your tutorials inspired me to do this one !
I’m really sorry to cost you the 120$ of the power supply .
http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/lowcosioubep.html
When you’re not anodizing it can provide electric current for your radio , for the led lighting on your microscope, for charging your phone etc
You have mixed etching and bulino , and I’m sure you’ll do great things with this kind of technique.
Greetings
Jean
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