Ruger No 1

Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
73
Almost finished with this one. Ruger no 1 action to be chambered for 6mm BR. Sculpted and french greyed with raised 22k gold inlays. There will be gold inlays on the under lever as well ( ran out of gold...)

BIG thanks to GRS for their wonderfull C-max carbide gravers. Made cutting on this tough action much easier. Performance was about like cutting mild steel with Glensteel.





 

Glenn

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Nov 9, 2006
Messages
714
Gorgeous work Bailey. Your right about GRS's new C-max carbide. Your craftsmanship is amazing to me. Thanks for taking the time to show your work.
 

ddushane

~ Elite 1000 Member ~
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Jan 7, 2007
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Location
Andrews, TX
Good job Bailey, Have you been able to finish the rifle you're building? I'd love to see pictures of it.

Dwayne
 

Glenn

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Nov 9, 2006
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Bailey,
Are you going to be in Reno this year?

Thanks, Glenn
 

Charlie

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Oct 3, 2008
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Mr Bradshaw,

I read your build thread from start to finish.

That is an awesome piece of work.

150 yard with a double rifle is mighty good!

Would like to meet you some day.

Charlie
 
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eastslope

~ Elite 1000 Member ~
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Jan 16, 2008
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Location
Conrad, MT
Mr Bradshaw, I am in awe. Your a machinist, blacksmith, knife maker, stock maker, gunsmith, engraver, cnc expert, and you still find time to hunt. What an inspiration to see your rifle build. Thanks for posting the #1, and thank you for the link to the build. I wouldn't even know where to start in designing a rifle, let alone building one. Thanks, Seth
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
73
Glenn,

No Reno trip for me this year. I will look into next year though. I will be at the Dallas Safari club show.

Charlie, where in this great country of Texas are you?

Seth,

Thanks, just persuing a dream. Glad you enjoyed the build thread. I should have that bugger shooting in another week or so.
 

ddushane

~ Elite 1000 Member ~
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Awesome thread on the new project Bailey. I've always been amazed at your work. Thanks for posting what you do! Sherry & I were telling someone about the demonstration you put on at Johnny Stouts several years ago and how great it was to watch. Hang in there, God bless you & yours,

Dwayne
 

DKanger

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Sep 30, 2007
Messages
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Location
West TN
Bailey
Read your double-gun making thread with great interest. Can you pass along any info on your method of soldering the ribs to the barrels?

I have 2 English muzzleloading double rifles needing the ribs resoldered. One is completely disassembled and I have been reticent to work on them. I've had mixed success soldering on single under-ribs, but always seem to overheat the barrel and have to start over. Spring clamps work well, but twisted wires always seem to relax. I've tried Hi-Force, Tix, silver bearing, and a variety of other common solders. My best success has been bringing the whole barrel up to temp in a BBQ grill, but most barrels I do are longer than will fit in it.

Dave
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
73
Dave,

I machine the rib on my small doubles from a solid bar, so they have a close fit, and I can simply clamp from the sides of the barrels. The rib is one piece, so once in place, it won't move.

For top and bottom ribs, you can make screw clamps. Buy some 4" square tubing and cut it into 1/2" wide pieces. Drill and tap 1/4-20 holes in the center of each side. I also made jigs to space the bores at the breech and muzzle so they would converge by .005". This gives you a place to start for regulating. In other words, the bores centers at the muzzels are .005" closer together than at the breech. This will suspend the barrels through the center of your square screw clamps. Assemble the ribs and clamp in place.

My soldering procedure is to tin all the parts with HI-Force, sprinkle a little rosin powder on the parts and assemble. The rosin will let the solder flow. The tinned parts act as a heat indicator as well. Once the solder flows, it's hot enough. Add just enough solder to make a nice seam. I just use a hand held propane torch. Start at one end and take it in 4" sections. The heat will flow down the barrels nicely.
 

DKanger

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Sep 30, 2007
Messages
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West TN
What flux do you use with the Hi-Force? Seems like the Comet flux always burns out before the barrel gets hot enough to melt the Hi-Force and the results are crappy.

Dave
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
73
I use the comet flux, I get it hot first, almost hot enough to melt the solder, but not quite. The flux should boil when it hits. If it scorches, reapply a little. Ive had good results when tinning by putting a little flux on steel wool and scrubbing while the solder is molten. Once it's tinned, you are home free. The steel wool also gets a lot of the excess off leaving a nice thin and even coat.

Number one rule is if the solder won't flow, apply more flux and clean the area BEFORE applying more heat.
 

Steve223

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Apr 20, 2007
Messages
552
Location
SW NewMexico
Bailey i am in awe of your skills and i cant wait to see the double rifle done. If i ever get rich and famous i would love to have a 22K hornet double rifle!!
Thank you for post the link to your excellent build thred.
Steve
 

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