Announcement: Model 12 casting

Christian DeCamillis · Oct 17, 2009

The casting of the model 12 I finished are avaliable. They are being sold through [handengravinggallery.com] This is the only place they will be available. The casting is vacum cast, so no bubbles fine detail. They can be ordered inked or not. Thanks Chris

John B. · Oct 17, 2009

That is a great Model #12, Chris.
It was a joy to see it at Grand Masters.
Best.

Roger Bleile · Oct 17, 2009

Chris,

I was hoping you would make a casting. Do you think they are a better engraver's study with or without the ink?

Thanks for making this available,

Roger

Christian DeCamillis · Oct 17, 2009

Roger, It was nice to meet and visit with you at the GM. I had a great time there. I would have to say that I like to study them uninked,not because the ink fills in the cuts somewhat,but rather the rubbing you have to do to remove the excess color burnishes the resin slightly and you lose some crispness. Although its minor it is noiticable when you compare them side by side. For me it doesn't matter, but for someone trying to learn I think makes some difference. Aperson can always ink them after for display. I use oil paint it is easy to remove excess without staining everything else. I learned this from Don Glasser. Some people like to use burnt umber instead of black for display purposes. Chris

John Hancock · Oct 17, 2009

Mr. DeCamilis,

What a lovely design you have created! I am a very amateur hammer & chisel person emulating 18th century gun work. My primary study-book has been Master French Gunsmiths' Designs. Your Model 12 is a delightful blend of your own artistry with the traditions of the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. I have already ordered a casting. Thank you for making them available.

Sincerely,

John

Roger Bleile · Oct 17, 2009

Chris,

It was likewise a pleasure to meet you at the GM weekend and to examine the model 12 first hand. Based on your remarks I will order mine uninked.

Roger

gail.m · Oct 17, 2009

Does anyone think that powdered graphite would work to highlight the casting? There would be no burnishing effect and most of it could probably be tapped out then lightly dusted. I don't have an un-inked casting or I would try it.
gailm

Sandy · Oct 17, 2009

Chris,
Did you do both sides of the action?
Sandy

ED DELORGE · Oct 17, 2009

Hello Chris, I just ordered my casting, cant wait to get it. Are you planning on relealing another video any time soon. I have been enjoying the bolino video.

Thanks

Ed DeLorge

Karl Stubenvoll · Oct 18, 2009

I used powdered graphite on Chris' casting and was very pleased with how it showed the visual detail with easy cleanup.

John B. · Oct 18, 2009

Hi Gail,
As Karl said, powdered graphite will work.
As will the easy to get Epoxy Black (powder) from Brownell's.
But the very best thing for removable blacking is Ivory Black.
Very hard to find anymore, it's finely crushed ivory charcoal.
When I mentioned this before on the forum the ever resourceful Rod C. did a mini tutorial with pictures of a fairly easy way to make your own.
The tutorial should be in the Tips section if you type in Ivory Black or maybe Rod will chime in when he returns from Emporia.
Rod brought his powder to the Grand Masters and demonstrated how well he could black one of Chris DeCamillis bulino casting and then get it perfectly clean and clear for further study of the cuts when using ivory black.
It's also not too abrasive and hard on the castings.
Best regards,
John.

Peter E · Oct 18, 2009

John B. - I have some "ivory black" in oil color AND acrylic from a paint supply store, but I suspect it is NOT what you are describing.

I bought it after it was suggested in one of the books I have on engraving techniques, but I didn't have great results using it to blacken metal after engraving it?

I can imagine taking some charcoal and powdering it would yield some fine black powder.

John B. · Oct 18, 2009

Yes, Peter you're correct. It's a charcoal made and crushed from overheating ivory scraps made in an airtight container.
The Ivory Black in oil or as a paint is not what I mean and most of the modern stuff is Ivory in name only. It contains no real ivory and is damaging to remove from a casting.
I have just been doing a search in the Tips section for Rod's excellent post on how to make your own ivory black but could not find it, computer dummy that I am.
Maybe Rod, Tira or Andrew can come to the rescue, find it and post a link to it. It's the greatest stuff for making a temporary black on an uninked study casting.
Washes right off the casting under running water.

PS. For those of us concerned.....no elephants have to suffer to provide the ivory.
There is enough scrap ivory on the market to last a long time.
It comes from old, broken piano keys from years ago and also from fossil mammoth ivory that is too broken for other uses.
Also from 1800 era broken articles and pool balls.

Peter E · Oct 18, 2009

Mr. B - the technique is in this thread "To ink or not to ink Chris' new bulino casting" If you search on "making ivory black" or was that "making black ivory" I searched for to find it?:big grin: Anyway, it is in that thread and Rod did a VERY good job of showing how he made it.

I happen to have a LOT of ivory scraps myself, but lack forging materials. I would think a mortar/pestle would also work quite well for making the ivory charcoal into powder.

DKanger · Oct 18, 2009

It's a charcoal made and crushed from overheating ivory scraps made in an airtight container.

It's called destructive distillation and can be done to any organic compound......ivory, wood, bone, cloth, etc. It's the same way you make charcloth for firestarting flint and steel.

The easiest way is to get a small, metal paint can. Punch a hole in the top with an icepick. Fill with your desired material and reseal the lid. Put it in hot coals or charcoal and leave it until smoke stops coming from the small hole in the lid. As soon as it does so, remove from the heat and immediately plug the small hole; otherwise it will catch fire and burn up. Allow it to cool. Pulverize with a mortar and pestle.

You can make leather and bone charcoal this way for packing parts to be case hardened too.

Dave

Ray Cover · Oct 18, 2009

Hey Chris,

WHat material did you use for the casting? I have tried to vacuum the Alumalite type polystyrene plastics and they boil under vacuum adding bubbles.........At least they did for me.

Ray

John B. · Oct 18, 2009

Thanks, Peter and Dave.
Rod did a great job on this.
Peter, I think you could use Rod's method using a B-B-Q and a hair dryer.
Just a thought.

Christian DeCamillis · Oct 18, 2009

Sandy, I haven't made a mold of the otherside yet. Not sure if I am going to it's pretty much the same except no game scene. Ray I use one of the resins from smooth on. They carry three different working times the 3 minute a nine minute and a twenty minute. I use the nine minute. The reality is that you really have about fifteen minutes of working time. Chris

Doc Mark · Oct 18, 2009

Another material to blacken these tiny grooves is the "old" style copy machine powder. It is an incredibly super-fine black powder. I was given some of this and it works great and, like the ivory black, it washes off with running water. Ask around some large office complexes and see if anyone has an old container of copy machine toner hiding in a back storeroom.

Mark

Sam · Oct 19, 2009

I've saw this gun at Grandmasters and a casting will be an absolutely excellent study aid. Personally, I prefer castings which have been blackened.

Announcement: Model 12 casting

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