Bill Ellis
Member
The etching will be done after heat treat/tempering and final sanding. Then it is dipped into ferric chloride for a bit and the pattern will show up again. The gold would not be affected... I don't think.
Help, please: When to put in wire inlay
- Thread starter Bill Ellis
- Start date
Bill Ellis
Member
I already have the hole drilled, but took the pic beforehand. Oops! Open scroll or leaf? If I only knew how... *sigh*. Only gold or silver will show up in the damascus. Regular engraving will be lost in the pattern unless I used a flat white paint or something in the cuts.
Hi Bill,
I thought the hole for the hinge pin was missing, just an early picture.
Knew you were putting the line in in gold.
That's what I ment.....a little gold scroll or leaf to finish off the end of the line?
Either way it's going to be a great looking razor, scroll/leaf or not.
What are the handles going to be made of?
Best.
jerrywh
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
The gold will not be effected by the ferric chloride but. If left in the acid too long it might eat away the steel from around the inlay. I had that happen with a gold inlayed buttplate one time. It shouldn't take over about 1 minute for the pattern to show up in the damascus.
Bill Ellis
Member
I've been practicing. I sure do need it. I am close to trying the pattern in the actual blade itself. I was thinking of going with the top design in the attached pic. I'm not quite sure if it's too busy for such a small area or not. The pattern is going to have to be about 7mm at the widest portion. Wire guage is 24.
Think I should make it more simple, anyone?
I also had another question as I am unsure if I am doing this right. Should the undercut to hold the wire in the channel be continuous or can it be intermittant? I know I must be doing everything the hard way, no doubt.
Think I should make it more simple, anyone?
I also had another question as I am unsure if I am doing this right. Should the undercut to hold the wire in the channel be continuous or can it be intermittant? I know I must be doing everything the hard way, no doubt.
Attachments
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20090630_022bb.jpg
Bill of the 3 I like the first design the best.
I have done very little wire inlay but what I have done I udercut the channel the full lenght. I don't think it has to be a big undercut just enough for the wire to flare some at the bottom of the cut. My biggest problem was the trench was deeper than it was wide and I had a problem with marring the top of my channel when I made the undercut. Most of this cleaned up when I filed the work flush but I am thinking that I went to deep with my channel.
Bill, if I may make a suggestion. The design you are proposing does not look bad but to me does not fit the flow of the razor. A straight razor is a sleek racy cutting piece and I think a design that went past the pivot point and macthed the flow of the arm would be very appealing.
Anyway good luck with your project and thanks for sharing.
I have done very little wire inlay but what I have done I udercut the channel the full lenght. I don't think it has to be a big undercut just enough for the wire to flare some at the bottom of the cut. My biggest problem was the trench was deeper than it was wide and I had a problem with marring the top of my channel when I made the undercut. Most of this cleaned up when I filed the work flush but I am thinking that I went to deep with my channel.
Bill, if I may make a suggestion. The design you are proposing does not look bad but to me does not fit the flow of the razor. A straight razor is a sleek racy cutting piece and I think a design that went past the pivot point and macthed the flow of the arm would be very appealing.
Anyway good luck with your project and thanks for sharing.
Bill Ellis
Member
Well, it's been a while, but I finally got around to finishing this razor. It honed up real nice and will make a dandy shaver. I just ordered 4 more pieces of damascus just like it. The wire is 24K, as was the suggested wire to use by many of the posts I have seen on the site, here. The scales (handles) are Asian elephant ivory.
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damascus finished 007x800.jpg -
damascus finished 010x800.jpg -
damascus finished 036x800.jpg -
damascus finished 050x800.jpg
Weldon47
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Bill,
That came out looking NICE!
WL
That came out looking NICE!
WL
Bill Ellis
Member
Thanks for the compliment, WL. Looks like my efforts aren't much of a hit with the other folks, though... tough crowd. Good thing I don't give up easily... 
pappy
Elite Cafe Member
Razor looks great! Keep up the good work!!!
Very,very nice Bill.
docmike
Member
That is a beautiful razor, thank you for posting I learned alot from this. Mike
Dani Girl
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Fantastic work Bill. I'm glad it came out so well for you, I've been very keen to see it. Thank you for starting this thread, it's been fun and very educational learning along with you.
Dani Girl
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Can I ask would it work with Silver wire to do the same process installing the Silver before the heat treat? Would the silver melt?
A great Aussie knife maker just suggested to me it might be an idea to edge quench the blade so that most of it remains soft and then I can work on it in it's 'finished' state.
I am guessing there will be a noticeable hamon line which will let me know before i hit it with my graver where the harder.
I was going to get a knife maker mate of mine to cut me out a blank on what he has, either, 1084, 15n20, w2, 5160 which is spring steel.
1084 etched with Ferric Chloride turns really really dark, it's often the darker metal used in damascus beside something with a little nickle or something in it which makes it etch slower.
A great Aussie knife maker just suggested to me it might be an idea to edge quench the blade so that most of it remains soft and then I can work on it in it's 'finished' state.
I am guessing there will be a noticeable hamon line which will let me know before i hit it with my graver where the harder.
I was going to get a knife maker mate of mine to cut me out a blank on what he has, either, 1084, 15n20, w2, 5160 which is spring steel.
1084 etched with Ferric Chloride turns really really dark, it's often the darker metal used in damascus beside something with a little nickle or something in it which makes it etch slower.
Idaho Flint
Elite Cafe Member
Nice Job. That really looks good.
Mike
Mike
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