Common errors in scroll design

Sam

Chief Administrator & Benevolent Dictator
Staff member
Joined
Nov 6, 2006
Messages
10,491
Location
Covington, Louisiana
Here are a couple of common errors in scroll design. As I mentioned in Steve's critique thread, care must be taken at the splits in the leaves. The top illustration shows splits in the leaves which do not follow the flow of the scroll, which I've marked in red. In other words, if you follow the line, it exits the scroll at an awkward angle as opposed to following the scroll's growth as in the illustration below.

Marked in blue are also some common errors in which the body of the leaf element is wide, gets progressively thinner, and then gets wide again. I've also corrected this in the bottom illustration.

These are very common errors which every scroll designer has made. Hopefully this will help you avoid them now that you know what to look for. / ~Sam

 

Tira

~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Joined
Nov 9, 2006
Messages
1,551
Location
Doylestown, PA
Sam, thanks for this post. It is amazing how many concepts can be taught in a simple drawing when it is presented as clearly as this. :)
 

Sam

Chief Administrator & Benevolent Dictator
Staff member
Joined
Nov 6, 2006
Messages
10,491
Location
Covington, Louisiana
Thanks, Scott and Tira.

I should mention that it all starts with a scroll backbone line with correct proportional spiral. Without that, nothing else matters as the greatest cuts and finest shading in the world can't save it.
 

Tom Curran

Elite Cafe Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2007
Messages
451
Location
upstate New York
This seemingly simple illustration will help so many engravers get their scrolls to flow better. I learned something new today! Thanks, Tom
 

Weldon47

~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Joined
Dec 9, 2006
Messages
1,412
Location
Welfare, Texas
Sam,

Great info!
What I believe we are looking for is a common point of origin: one that leads the eye or, that the eye follows & is uninterrupted in flow as the scroll begins and grows toward its termination. The mistakes you illustrate (which we all make or have made) make it very difficult to effectively shade the scroll.

My thoughts,

Weldon
 

JohnR

Elite Cafe Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2008
Messages
121
Location
Stockton, Calif. (mid. state)
:thumbs up: A big Thank You Sam, for taking the time & effort to explain with great detail some of the basics of design. They really do help those of us that are struggling to draw better. Looking back on my sketches I am a big violator of these rules and now I will always remember to check them. Thanks again....JohnR
 

Steve223

Elite Cafe Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2007
Messages
552
Location
SW NewMexico
Sam thanks this is a big help to me...Its those little suttle things that are really hard for me to see.
Thanks again!
Steve
 

pilkguns

~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Joined
Nov 14, 2006
Messages
1,874
Location
in the land of Scrolls,
What I believe we are looking for is a common point of origin:

Wow Weldon, in all my study and teaching of scroll design, I have never seen or heard it put that way, but that is exactly what we are trying to achieve.

Is this the Weldon Lister Theory of CPOO?
 

Sam

Chief Administrator & Benevolent Dictator
Staff member
Joined
Nov 6, 2006
Messages
10,491
Location
Covington, Louisiana
Point of origin is an excellent way to describe it, Weldon.

I'm glad this has helped those who are working hard at scroll design. There are many subtle little things that the untrained eye misses at first. Just like many things, once you know what to do and what to avoid, the job gets easier and the quality takes a nice jump.

~Sam
 

Sam

Chief Administrator & Benevolent Dictator
Staff member
Joined
Nov 6, 2006
Messages
10,491
Location
Covington, Louisiana
Continuing on...attempting to shade the top scroll is difficult as the shade lines will overlap the splits in the leaves. This really detracts from the beauty of the scroll. Also, attempting to follow poorly shaped elements with shade cuts results in ugly spots that interrupt the flow. In the bottom illustration I've shaded the corrected version, which gives me much more freedom for shading, and the scroll follows a natural growth.

~Sam

 

soj

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2008
Messages
82
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Sam, thanks so much for posting this. Not that I won't mess this up again, but I have something to look at and shoot for.
 

Sam

Chief Administrator & Benevolent Dictator
Staff member
Joined
Nov 6, 2006
Messages
10,491
Location
Covington, Louisiana
Another thing to add is that when designing, you have to think ahead. In other words, if I draw a particular line, what affect will it have on shading later? It's sort of like shooting pool and setting up for your next shot as you're shooting. When I design, I visualize the shaded element as I draw it. If I can't get a clear picture of it then I'll try another shape. This way there are no surprises, and after the design is cut I pretty much know what I'm going to be doing shading-wise.

Many of my students make similar design errors as in the illustrations. I've made them too, and I still make them from time to time. I spend a lot of time drawing, erasing, and fine tuning before the chips start hitting the floor.
 

John Cole

Elite Cafe Member
Joined
May 19, 2009
Messages
131
Location
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Sam, hope this question isn't off topic, but when you're shading do you start from the inside of the leaf or do you draw the longest shading line first and help to keep the highlight of the stem in an even width as you progress through the scroll? John C.
 

Mike Cirelli

~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Messages
1,690
Location
Western PA
Good info if I was the Chief Administrator and Benevolent Dictator

I would add this to the tips page.
 

Sam

Chief Administrator & Benevolent Dictator
Staff member
Joined
Nov 6, 2006
Messages
10,491
Location
Covington, Louisiana
John C: I think I understand your question. When I shade I normally start on the inside edge and work across the leaf. My shading cuts are cut from thin to thick, so I start at the top of the leaf and cut downward, getting progressively deeper and wider as I go.

On wider leaves I'll shade with a centerline first, then continue on each side of that centerline. The centerline becomes my guide and helps me keep all the other lines properly oriented. Again, I only do this on wider leaves, and it really helps with keeping the shading cuts correctly aligned.
 

Latest posts

Sponsors

Top