Question: "Bulino" conventional heel vs bulino heel

Marcus I had the same problem. Could not cut a curve with it. But to cut straight it works great. I think I would like it better than a heeled graver for laying line after line tight against each other. It's sounds like Phil my tilt the graver to cut curves

I just got and watched most of the DVD. Beyond making the point really tiny and having
lift put into the tool in how you grind it. I personnaly still use a leather and Diamond spray strop to on the blade. That would put a really tiny radiu on the blade, or heal if
you want to call it that.

I know Cris is saying no lift and this is how you get it. With grinding system he work out
for himself. I don't want to use the system, to many steps and to slow.
Noboby pays you to sharpen gravers but to engrave. Polishing the whole face of his style
of balino blade is simple not nessesary. I set the dual angle 2 degrees short of the
facet angle needed. You can then move it forward two degrees and polish just the tip.

That all that need a high polish unless you doing a magazine add then you make your tools pretty. This is a business and time is money.

The rest of the DVD was great and I'm enjoying and learning new stuff.

Talk to ya later,
Jiim

Jim the C-max graver polishes very quick much faster than other carbides. For me stropping the graver would make cutting these microscopic lines more difficult. These cuts need to go right into the metal. If the edge is not razor sharp I would have a hard time. The graver wants to float a bit slowing me down, the same thing I experience with a heeled graver (in the case of these straight bulino cuts).

Hi Mike,

I would say what you said is exactly right. But you do not have to polish the entire surface, just the working end. Think of it as just a slight heal. Polishing the nearly 6 mm of
face just isn't necessary. You will still have geometry and the strength require.

The polish on of the graver should take 4 minute from blank to finished tool.
If you do it the way Cris suggest. It would probable take half and hour or more.
I would rather be engraving for the 26 minutes than making a jewel of a tool.
On such a small tool you only require 2 mm of polish surface, tops. Not 6 to 10 mm per
facets.

The large facet polish will be wiped out next time you grind anyway, but you can do it
Cris's way if you like. I just saying there is a faster way.

As far as how the tool cuts, I think Cris is a robust guy with a lot of strength in his hands.
He can finesse a cut. In other words make the graver move in a direction without plunging.
He probable not even aware that he does it. He just knows it works.

With out any lift lift at all on the heal, means you can get away with this as long as you not cutting to deeply. When Cris gets a ruler
and shows the size of the cuts should be a big
hit. The actual degree of magnification on what he does through the scope is more like
20x not 10x. So yes can a curved line just not to tight of a curved line, or you will
eventually get double cutting.

One of us who doesn't quite have as much lift up power
on the graver, may just have to put a heal on the blade to make a tight corner. Like me,
for one. No heal mean for me, a plunging tool most of the time. On something this small
you don't need much of a heal.

A stropping polish will most likely do.

Talk to ya later,
Jim

ps. since a picture is worth a thousand words. This what I'll be using

Hi Marcus

The one thing that Phil & Chris forgot to mention is that you have to be incredibley good looking for the gravers to work properley

I'm no expert on these gravers, that's for sure. I did get a slight burr but a quick wipe with some grit paper got rid of them as they were just on the surface and no more. They looked worse than they actually were.

But I did find it cut through 316L stainless like a hot knife through butter. They are razor sharp and seem sharper than normal gravers (again, that is what it seemed like and I have no scientific knowledge to back that up)

Cheers
Andrew

Jim, I sometimes do what you describe. It is a good way to do it. The reason I polish all the way back the length of the facet is because then If I need to resharpen all I have to do is touch the face and go. When the face gets larger than I want, I will grind material from the top of the graver to make the face smaller. I usually do that with diamond wheels under the scope. When you are making a video you can only allow so much time for each subject, or you will have a six hour video. If I get into all the little things I do or have done in the past concerning sharpening the video would be a sharpening video. I find that most people over time will figure out better ways to go about sharpening to make it easier for themselves. Lets face it at some point you have to change things that work best for yourself. But you have to have a baseline from which people can start and follow. If someone tells me they do better with a heel, I have no problem with that.,as long as you get a good result.
Andrew . The reason you find it easier to cut is because without the heel the graver will cut immediatley into the metal. When you have a heel it takes more pressure because the tip and heel have to get below the surface before it starts to cut. I use to use this geometry for all my cutting. I now only use it for bulino. for everything else I use a heel. I also put a micro radius for cutting outlines background english scroll. but for shading I keep it razor sharp and for bulino as well.
Everyone will have there preferences, and one way is not right for everyone ,so try different things and do what works best for you. Chris

Andrew Biggs said:

The one thing that Phil & Chris forgot to mention is that you have to be incredibley good looking for the gravers to work properley

Cheers
Andrew

Click to expand...

Oooops! we thought this was common knowledge!.........well,....do your best anyway Andrew :big grin:

Phil

Hi Chris,
You teach the basic principal, then I can add to them. That's a deal. Probable a good to have a forum. A great reason to have a good discussion.

I found the rest of your first DVD great. You been doing some thinking on this subject.
Thanks for putting down, so everyone can take advantage.

Talk to ya later,
Jim