Question: SPM speed for shading

Arnaud Van Tilburgh · Apr 10, 2009

I have a technical question about regulating the GRS air supply.
About the Graver Mach and Graver Max, I only know they have more regulation buttons than the Graversmith I use.

The Graversmith has only one button to regulate the air pressure, and one for the speed SPM that goes from 400 to 8000.

I never tried a Mag or Max, so I don’t know where their extra buttons are good for.

I experienced that the lower the SPM, the more power on the impact of the engraver.
Usually I use 2300-3300 SPM for both main line engraving and shading.

For stippling background I use about 1300 SPM.

Because I only have one hand piece, the 901, and as Sam suggested to buy also a monarch for shading that I will do soon, I don’t know how to use all speed above 4000 SPM.

I would be logic to use more speed with less impact for shading, but on the 901 that does not work better.

Question: what do you use (SPM) for shading and line bulino?

arnaud

fegarex · Apr 10, 2009

Arnaud,
I think you left out a zero on your SPM there but you are in the right range.
2400 SPM is a good "average" for the 901. A lot of it is personal preference but I like 2200-2400 SPM for main cutting. I usually go to 2500-3000 for shading, specially for gold.
Make sure the air pressure is adjusted correctly as well. Also, periodic cleaning of the piston and bore is suggested depending how clean your air supply is. Normal cutting the tool usually works fine but when you do fine shading the tool needs to be clean.
Again, a lot of these settings are personal preference but I fine a higher SPM allows a bit smother and more controled cut.
Rex

Arnaud Van Tilburgh · Apr 10, 2009

Rex indeed the zero. I edited my post.
About cleaning and calibrating I know that.
Our SPM are quite similar, and what I also thought, the finer lines shading) the more SPM.

Does that mean there is a hand piece that works well with 5000 SPM or above?

arnaud

fegarex · Apr 10, 2009

The existing hand pieces are not made to operate up to around 4000 I think.
When they designed the Gravermach/Max/Smith they made the SPM go beyond that in case of future hand piece design.

Arnaud Van Tilburgh · Apr 10, 2009

OK, thanks Rex.
Can you also tell me what a MAX and MACH can do more than the SMITH?

I know the have two connections compared to the Smith, but am I missing something if I want to do fine line bulino scenes?
Actually I'm only missing some experience, but I made me a 90Â° HSS X-7 and it seems with this one I can do really fine shading lines starting from almost invisible.

So I only want to find out if I'm missing something, asd 6 moths ago when I bought the GraverSmith, I did not know how far I would like to come on engraving, just thought I would do some stone setting and basic engraving.
But I moved my goal. :big grin:

arnaud

fegarex · Apr 10, 2009

Arnaud,
I am not up on all the technical information but from what I know the Smith just doesn't have all the "bells and whistles" of the other machines which makes it less money.
I don't know if I would be able to tell the difference in actual cutting between any of the three. The others allow for quick switching between hand pieces and other options.
Keep cutting and you will be just fine.
I understand what you mean. It is like climbing a mountain. Once you reach the top of one, you must try to go to a taller mountain!
Rex

Jim Sackett · Apr 10, 2009

Hi Arnaud it sounds to me like you are hooked on engraving!

Jim

Arnaud Van Tilburgh · Apr 10, 2009

Jim, in a sort of, yes I am. :big grin:

Everything I do, I like it, and I have the luck I can make a living of it. And nothing worse to spoil your time of life doing things you don't like to do.

And even when I have to do things that don't come up from myself, as it is a sort of obligation, even than I try to change it the way it becomes fun.

arnaud

jetta77 · Apr 10, 2009

Aurnad,
I use the mach.

2100-2300 main cutting

3200+ shading

4200 stippling

The mach has a feature where I can adjust my throttle so it sharts quicker w using the foot control, especially good for fine shading...

Just experiement.....

You can cut anything w anything once you get good w it..... right?

Jeff

FANCYGUN · Apr 11, 2009

I usually stay in the 2300-2700 SPM for all of my work usuing the 901, Magnum and the monarch. I like the slower speeds and DJ and I were talking a while back about this and it also has to do with beleive it or not "biorythems" and how we react to the sounds at different speeds. I actually a annoyed at the faster higher pitched sound of the speed that many use the machines at. It also to me doen't make a difference as to the quality of the cut as the slower speeds seems to do just fine.
Marty

Arnaud Van Tilburgh · Apr 11, 2009

Jeff, also your SPM seems to be in the same range, except your stippling. The adjustment for the throttle is an extra regulation where the SMITH only has the pressure to calibrate the hand piece?
When the hand piece is well calibrated starts on my SMITH, it also starts immediately.

Marty, thanks for the reply, sounds all very similar as a few 100 less or more makes sometimes a difference, but not on the result of the cuts. And as most of us are or were also musicians maybe it has also tot do with rhythm. :big grin:

arnaud

FANCYGUN · Apr 11, 2009

Arnaud
I also just seem to feel more in control of the tool at the slower speeds. It must be mental or something.

Question: SPM speed for shading

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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