Speed Ball Ink?

I was wondering about the dry time on speed ball ink. I use etching ink, and like everything about except the really long dry time. So I was wondering if the Speed ball ink dried faster being it is acrylic, rather than oil base. Any insight would be helpful, thanks -Brian

Hey Brian. I haven't used Speedball ink for anything involving engraving, but here's an assessment based on using the water soluble Speedball block printing ink for the occasional block print:

1) It does dry faster, at least on paper versus the oil based etching ink. It doesn't look as rich though, it's more of a matte finish.

2) The consistency is thinner (relief printing inks ARE thinner than etching inks, it's a whole different process of inking and printing).

3) It feels noticeably "grittier" versus oil based etching ink. This would lead me to believe the pigment is not as finely ground and might not sit as nicely in finely etched work.

There is "drier" available for etching inks that will speed the drying up a bit, but I don't know how this would work for inking metal, I've only used it for trying to speed the drying time on printed work. Seems to me we used something like a couple drops of cobalt drier per glob of ink (glob being probably about a tablespoon). There was some reason not to use much of it, but I don't remember why, it must change the consistency or something. I'll bet if you called Graphic Chemical they might be able to tell you if this would help.

-Katherine

Hi Brian.
I have never had any luck with the acrylic Speedball.
It tends to ball-up ( no pun intended) rather than spread and fill.
But I have used and recommended the oil base Speedball for over 30 years and like it very much.
In my area it drys overnight and is very hard to remove in any background or in detail cuts.
I will bring some to Reno and if you cut a couple of lines on a plate and bring it you can give it a try there.
Hope this helps, best wishes. John B.

Where can a guy get the ink? and what is best?

Darnew.
For my use the Speedball Oil Base Black #3550 is best.
I buy mine at most well stocked art supply stores.
Probably in most good sized towns.
Or in 4 year college or JC book and supply stores.
A tube will last a life time if you keep it capped.
Best, John B.

John and Katherine, Thanks for the info. Reno is exactly the reason I was asking, being that the piece I am working on for the show will be finished at the last minute, and I know I will not have time to spare to let ink dry. I will give the oil based Speedball a go. Overnight is plenty fast enough. Thanks again, see you both in Reno- Brian

Brian,

I think I may have mentioned this here at an earlier time, but what I use is an Industrial Sharpie for blackening on stainless steel and some other metals. It dries quickly so I apply a little at a time and rub off the excess with folded newspaper. The Sharpie does not go on thick like some of the inks so it does not fill up your lines. Rather it blackens them. The Industrial Sharpie is rather impervious to oil and many solvents so it stays in pretty well even though the item may be handled alot. I used it on the stainless steel Rugers that I shoot in cowboy action matches and in spite of all the rough handling and cleaning I only had to do a touch up after about 2 years.

Now, when I engrave carbon steel, I do the following. Apply the white to the steel, engrave, apply cold blue to the cuts, stop the action of the blue with a wet towel, clean off the white, final polish with fine abrasive paper then oil the metal. The cold blue will permanantly blacken the cuts without filling them and it will be quite permanant.

I hope this helps. There are many approaches to blackening engraving.

CRB

Speedball was the best game in school.

Christopher Malouf said:

Speedball was the best game in school.

Click to expand...

C'mon Chris we all know you boys in WV never had real toys, maybe a rock and a stick, but a ball? Maybe the town kids did, there yonder through the holler, to da bag city.

Roger, thanks for the info, good to know.-Brian