Trying Smoke Pulls

JCP · Dec 31, 2008

I have a Franchi shotgun that has machine cut engraving. I thought I would practice smoke transfering using this (engraving ?). I smoked it with a candle, lifted the smoke with a piece of 3M packaging tape. Question is, how do I get the smoke to stick to my practice plate. I've tried damar and get almost no transfer at all.

Would one or any of you pros give a step by step on this.

I understand how to do it to scan and save the smoke pull , but I want to transfer the design and cut it for practice.

Thanks
Jack

dclevinger · Jan 1, 2009

Jack,

I use a kerosene lantern, actually just the bottom half. Your candle probably isn't sooty enough. I got the lantern for about 5 bucks at one of the big box stores and tore the top half off. Also, I use the same damar/ alcohol solution that I use for printer transfers. It's easier and quicker than using straight damar. I do these smoke transfers A LOT and it just takes a little practice to get good at it.

David

Tim Wells · Jan 1, 2009

I just came in from the shop (1AM) after listening to what sounds like bombs going off with all the new years explosions. Anyway I just transferred a previously cut pattern to a plate via a smoke pull. I coat the surface with Tom White's "Transfer Magic" solution and it transfers well sometimes and not so well others, you kind of have to play with it to get the right amount of fluid on there are the right amount of burnishing pressure.

If you don't have any of Tom's super sauce you just can't wait, you can cut that damar varnish 90% with rubbing alcohol or denatured (what I use) so you have 10% damar and the rest alcohol and that should get you by.

JCP · Jan 1, 2009

Thanks, I'll keep trying until I get it right.

Jack

Sam · Jan 1, 2009

I don't do smoke pulls very often, but when I do, I use a kerosene lamp filled with odorless lamp oil (paraffin oil). I also use keep my abrasive stones soaking in a little tin of the same oil. For years I used kerosene, but the odor is very strong.
~Sam

JCP · Jan 1, 2009

Thanks everyone. I'm using kerosene lamp. I just tried it again with same damar and lighter fluid. I didn't let it get tacky this time, I applied the smoke pull while the damar was still quite wet and it worked very well.

Thanks again

Jack

John B. · Jan 1, 2009

A good way is to stick your smoke or ink pull to a piece of transparency film or the sticky side of another piece of your tape.
Then print it on an ink jet and use a transfer solution on the metal.
Or print it on a photocopy or laser machine and transfer it with acetone.

Hope this helps, John B.

monk · Jan 2, 2009

first off, i'd try to scan the image if possible to keep a permanent record. then if you have some decent beeswax layin around, adab of that smeared on the part, then try taping the pull in place and burnishing it to transfer some of the smoke onto the wax.. gotta proceed with caution tho, as the wax will smear from busy fingers. i find pure beeswax is too stiff. for a hundred bucks i'll sell you my secret formula. cut it a bit with ordinary vaseline. caution: sheep tallow may seem a bit more "traditional" to cut the wax, but it sure do stink worse than vaseline ! adding the soft stuff softens the wax a bit, and makes it a bit more useful for transfers. and if you can scan and save it, try to print it as a direct transfer. this will save you a ton of time. you can also print as many copies as you may like.
check the tips section on transfer.

mtgraver · Jan 2, 2009

JCP,
I've been using smoke prints for years now. To transfer, If on shiny surface, chinese white to dull surface/contrast, knead a piece of plasticene (moldeling clay) until soft, roll on surface as a finger print would be taken while overlapping the rolls of the clay. Position the tape with the image to be transferred over the workpiece, set one end of the tape, roll finger as done with the clay (don't rub), lift tape. I use a sooty flame of the paraffin wax free oil in a jar with a homemade wick of cotton cord punched through the tight fitting lid. Make sure that the work piece is coated well with soot for a good transfer. If you want to protect the transfer while engraving from smudging then I shoot a light coat of "Fix-a-Tif" not sure of the name but hair spray would work, or as some folks do, the transfer can then be scribed in. I hope that helps.
Mark
www.MarkThomas-graver.com

JCP · Jan 3, 2009

Thanks for all the info men. I gotten some real good info here for sure. I'll print all this out and keep it for future reference.

Thanks again

Jack

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