I have a scope with a fluorescent ring light and it's ok, I guess. I don't actually use it for engraving. The color is kind of pale blue and not very bright at all. I've never seen or used an LED but have used the fiber optic ring light that uses a separate light source with a halogen lamp. Primo! The best in my opinion, but also very expensive. The heat that is created is at the light source, not at the scope so its cool and bright as the sun. And it's small so it doesn't get in the way too much. Even though I've got that light I usually don't use it. I have two shop lights (double 4' fluor. tubes) mounted right overhead and they provide all the light I need, no heat, nothing in the way, no shadows, pretty good alternative to almost $1000 for fiber optics and halogen. (I got mine cheap at a factory auction or I wouldn't have one at all). If your scope has good optics the light doesn't have to be that much. By the way, I use a single focus (no zoom) 10x American Optical (AO) scope that I got on ebay for $150. I'm proof that you don't have to spend a bunch of money to engrave! My first rotating vise was an old record player turntable with a suction cup vise sitting on it, worked great, I've still got it actually!
I tried an LED ring light but didn't care for it because of the tiny reflections that bounce back from the steel. I've found a fluorescent ring light much better. I think the ones GRS sell are great and they're rated at around 12 watts (I think). Forget the cheaper Chinese 8 watt ring lights. They're just not powerful enough especially if you zoom the scope in.
I agree about the LED lights. I've tried them and the pinpoints of light reflecting back from my work are distracting and irritating. I think the LED's will be ok with a diffuser, but after that you might as well have a fluorescent ring light. Maybe the answer is a powerful LED with a diffuser that puts out more light than a fluorescent. If there is such a light I've not seen it.
I have both and now using the LED that has a rheostats that works OK and turned to the right setting for the brightness I don't get the bounce back... Have not tried the fiber yet but, it will be the next one when I fine the right price...
Jerry
I use the florescent ring light for a direct bounce back of the light.
I also use a indirect light, a florescent desk lamp for side lighting.
Some times you want to see just the high points of what your doing and the indirect light does that.
I had the same experience as Sam and Marcus regarding the LED ring light. I tried the one GRS sells and it was VERY bright, but I was cutting a smooth steel plate and the reflections made the LED light unuseable.
It was really bright but it seems that it would only be useful if what you are cutting had a surface that wouldn't reflect the LED's.
I've got the new GRS Ring Light and haven't had any problems with reflections - including some pretty shiny silver. Then again, maybe I just haven't noticed them.
I also tend to have something on the surface - oil from clay, transfer wax, varnish - it's generally dulled in some way.
Joe;
I have tried quite a few of the lighting systems, and will give a few of the trials, and tribulations.
1. Scope came with a 12 watt floro ring light, ok, but not quite enough light for me.
2. Rigged a flex arm light, with a 75 watt floro day bright at an angle under the scope, with the ring, and flex, plenty of light, but 1/2 the time the flex was in the way.
3. Tried the 2 LED barbecue lights, might work for a portable setup, but not enough light for fine detail.
4. Got a 300 watt fiber optic light ring, oops, way to much light, blanked out the design, not adjustable enoughf, plus cooling fan sounded like a jet getting ready to take off.
5. Got a 50 watt fiber optic ring light, The cats meow, nicely adjustable, dosen't blank out your design, can be turned down for shiny stuff, or turned up for darker material. Plus the ring is out of the way under the scope, and no heat, fan has a little noise, but totally livable.
Hope this helps, I had to learn the hard way, my opinion. You might like another system.
I'll preface this by saying I've never worked on metal so I have no concept of what kind of reflection you want on that particular surface, but I want to plug (ha ha) this totally nifty light I have.
My scope came with a fluorescent ring light. It's not very bright and is a bit yellowish in color, and I really needed strong light coming from the side to get the right surface reflection for scrimshaw so I can see what the heck I'm doing. Tried desk lamps, nope (though I do use one to light up the general area where I'm working). Tried a clamp-on "BBQ light." Nope, too awkward and not bright enough. Then I happened to be at Ikea one day with a friend who was buying furniture, and I spotted this light http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10128734 and bought it and it's fabulous! I have NO idea if it would be appropriate for working on metal but it's a very bright concentrated light that is totally adjustable into any position. Love it! I think I may stockpile a few for future use. Of course the downside is they don't seem to be selling that model over the internet. I'm not far from the store though...
If you think THAT'S a messy desk....Boy, you are not in the same league with some of us old farts! It's been years since I've seen any of my workbench top surface. Not even sure what color it is! I too use a goose-neck halogen light. I found mine a couple of years ago at Office Depot. Works great.
Ooooh, I like that light.
It's bight enough and doesn't have a big foot print. If you fasten the base to the bench, it won't tip over.
With the long neck and little head. I going to have to go over to Ikea for that price. Thanks Katherine.
thanks for all of your input. I was hoping that a ring light in conjunctuon with the halogens that I have would help with the directional glare that I get.
All of your input is greatly appreciated
Thanks
Joe
i use a little cheapo pocket led flashlight. originally powered by 2 double a batteries. it's been converted to operate from a wall wart. it clamps directly to my scope and works great. very cheap. oh, and it's only about 7" from the object, and where it's positioned, my hand never casts a shadow.