"transition Cut" Tutorial
- Thread starter Roger Bleile
- Start date
eastslope
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
To Jane and Delder, NICE WORK!
silverchip
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Glad to see your version,Jane,AttaGirl!!!!:big grin::big grin:
Idaho Flint
Elite Cafe Member
Great Tutorial Roger, Thank you for taking the time to create it and share.
Mike
Mike
Peter_M
Elite Cafe Member
Roger,
In the moment it dose feel more natural to me to go from thin to wide, maybe that is because I been mostly western brightcutting.
I only drew the backbone on the practice plate and I must say it is more natural for me to start at the backbone and go out from there.
You do have to watch it getting out of the wide part of the cut but using a technique like you do with western brightcuting by dropping the band slightly and exiting in curve works for me, so far anyways.
I did try a few leaves going from the heavy part to thin and it was a lot easier using a square graver compared to a flat, going the other way I can do it with both a flay and square. Seams like if you use a square ( I been using a 116 universal point) the change of getting a rough edge when going deeper is not as great as with a flat.
But then as you said it is the end result that counts.
Peter
In the moment it dose feel more natural to me to go from thin to wide, maybe that is because I been mostly western brightcutting.
I only drew the backbone on the practice plate and I must say it is more natural for me to start at the backbone and go out from there.
You do have to watch it getting out of the wide part of the cut but using a technique like you do with western brightcuting by dropping the band slightly and exiting in curve works for me, so far anyways.
I did try a few leaves going from the heavy part to thin and it was a lot easier using a square graver compared to a flat, going the other way I can do it with both a flay and square. Seams like if you use a square ( I been using a 116 universal point) the change of getting a rough edge when going deeper is not as great as with a flat.
But then as you said it is the end result that counts.
Peter
Peter_M
Elite Cafe Member
Jane and Delder,
Those are some nice looking pieces, that half round graver in the dagger sure adds to the dimension, will have to make some up and experiment.
Seth,
Thanks for pointing my nose in the right direction, this is sure a lot of fun.
Peter
Those are some nice looking pieces, that half round graver in the dagger sure adds to the dimension, will have to make some up and experiment.
Seth,
Thanks for pointing my nose in the right direction, this is sure a lot of fun.
Peter
Peter M.
Thanks! I believe I saw the "hollowed out" effect on Ron Smith's work and liked it. I don't like leaving open spaces, it just looks flat to me. After watching Christian Decamillis' video on basics of bulino I have learned that anything left blank looks dimensionless....once pointed out to me (thru the video) it clicked and makes total sense to me. I started this flair cutting without using the round graver on leaves in areas like this and I didn't care for it.
Anyway, thanks!
Also, I have always admired Seth's engraving in this style.....
On another note some asked for people to post pictures of their engraving in this style and I have but received little "critique"-thanks to those of you that have commented.
Thanks! I believe I saw the "hollowed out" effect on Ron Smith's work and liked it. I don't like leaving open spaces, it just looks flat to me. After watching Christian Decamillis' video on basics of bulino I have learned that anything left blank looks dimensionless....once pointed out to me (thru the video) it clicked and makes total sense to me. I started this flair cutting without using the round graver on leaves in areas like this and I didn't care for it.
Anyway, thanks!
Also, I have always admired Seth's engraving in this style.....
On another note some asked for people to post pictures of their engraving in this style and I have but received little "critique"-thanks to those of you that have commented.
Peter_M
Elite Cafe Member
Jane,
I seen the hollowed out leaves on Ron's samples and Seth is using a round as well. Leaving flat leaves dose look empty for some reason, shading or some sculpting seams to be in order. I will have to grind myself some rounds I think and also experiment with some liners maybe.
Peter
I seen the hollowed out leaves on Ron's samples and Seth is using a round as well. Leaving flat leaves dose look empty for some reason, shading or some sculpting seams to be in order. I will have to grind myself some rounds I think and also experiment with some liners maybe.
Peter
jane: it fits the scales gracefully, reflects nicely, looks good to me. not much more to say.
robert: i'm with you on that. i get hives when trying to roll a 90 or 116 ! lack of practice. for me it's a snap using a flat.
hybridfiat
Member
My try at Transition
Ive had a bash at transition. Its harder than I thought but the result is quite pleasing, as long as you dont look too close.
Thank you all for the incredible resource that is this forum
Ive started cutting little squares of stainless and using them as practise plates. Ive ordered some rare earth magnets to mount on the back and will give them away at Christmas to friends. The stainless will keep it's shine. Might even get some Ti from the welders and use that too.
Ive had a bash at transition. Its harder than I thought but the result is quite pleasing, as long as you dont look too close.
Thank you all for the incredible resource that is this forum
Ive started cutting little squares of stainless and using them as practise plates. Ive ordered some rare earth magnets to mount on the back and will give them away at Christmas to friends. The stainless will keep it's shine. Might even get some Ti from the welders and use that too.
Attachments
-
Transition.JPG
Arnaud Van Tilburgh
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Here is my first try on to this style. I made some errors on bevelling, but by giving it A try I now found out how it works.
Thank you Roger for the tutorial, I will have to practice a few times more to have it perfect.
I think it will work for “budget” engravings
arnaud
Thank you Roger for the tutorial, I will have to practice a few times more to have it perfect.
I think it will work for “budget” engravings
arnaud
Attachments
-
DSCN8723.jpg
Last edited:
Roger Bleile
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Arnaud,
It looks like you have the concept down. Just like any scroll design, no two people do it the exact same way.
We may think of flare cut scroll as a "budget" option but I would not present it that way to customers. When you do it on some kind of contrasting background it looks very impressive to many people and they often think it is your deluxe work.
Roger
It looks like you have the concept down. Just like any scroll design, no two people do it the exact same way.
We may think of flare cut scroll as a "budget" option but I would not present it that way to customers. When you do it on some kind of contrasting background it looks very impressive to many people and they often think it is your deluxe work.
Roger
Arnaud Van Tilburgh
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Roger, when I call it “low budget†of course I don’t mean it is not valuable. And sure one does not have to tell customers it will be “low budget†It is just that it needs less time to execute, but sure when well done it has a lot of character in it, you could call it also more “artistic†:big grin:
And as we all experience, even I again today, you show one of your best engravings to a customer, and she does not have here reading glasses with here. Just saying, why always using fine cuts while engraving, as most of the time it is as we call: “pearls for the swineâ€
arnaud
And as we all experience, even I again today, you show one of your best engravings to a customer, and she does not have here reading glasses with here. Just saying, why always using fine cuts while engraving, as most of the time it is as we call: “pearls for the swineâ€
arnaud
KCSteve
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Isn't it Marcus Hunt (or his father) who always say that for budget work you reduce the quantity, not the quality? With flare cut you're getting a smooth, elegant design with a lot less time involved.
I would present it as "this style is less detailed and faster to execute so I can do more of it for the same price. This other style takes longer to do but you'll enjoy the little details you'll find over time."
I would present it as "this style is less detailed and faster to execute so I can do more of it for the same price. This other style takes longer to do but you'll enjoy the little details you'll find over time."
Sponsors
