Best point for fine lines in 24kt gold?

mitch · Apr 27, 2018

Of the relatively few things I truly dread doing (engraving-wise anyway), doing fine shading in 24kt gold ranks right up there, especially if it involves tight curves. I manage to get the job done, but am never really comfortable doing it, nor ecstatic with the results. Over these many years I've tried a variety of geometries and can't seem to find any that give the same clean, bur-free, crisp results I get in steel. I see Sam, Brian, and some others do it with no discernible difference between their lines in gold & steel and I continued to be confounded. Any suggestions?

Or maybe it's just operator error... :thinking:

John B. · Apr 27, 2018

Hi Mitch,
I hesitate to jump in here. But here goes anyway
I find it's not only the graver geometry and heel but the graver metal itself.
All of the high speed steel gravers seem to have an affinity that causes the gold chip to stick to their face, causing drag.
Carbide gravers don't do this and cut much cleaner in gold. At least for me.

JJ Roberts · Apr 27, 2018

Mitch,When engraving detail in gold Bob Evans engraving the birds & animals with the dot tool,I read that on a tutorial by Bob. J.J.

jerrywh · Apr 28, 2018

I agree with John B totally and also I found that the hand piece made a big difference for me. The heavier hand pieces tended to dive on me so I went to the monarch and thereafter had no trouble whatsoever. Carbide very short heal. C max preferable. Also when you inlay the gold hammer it in real good and that will harden it some and help. I just use a plain 90Â° graver with a standard heel

Alain Lovenberg · Apr 30, 2018

Try a "negative" or "reverse" heel, that's what I often use when I engrave 24K gold.
You don't need the air power tool, just by hand pushing you 'll have a lighter touch!

JMiller · Apr 30, 2018

Alain, do you put that reverse heel on top of the graver then instead of the bottom... same degree?

Alain Lovenberg · Apr 30, 2018

Jeff,
that's not really a heel, I have not a better word for that shape of tool.

That kind of graver is often used by the copperplate engravers.
The graver is tapered behind the cutting face, so that the tool doesn't drag even without a heel.
You can add a small heel if you sink in the metal and you need to lift the graver.
However the less heel is the best.

Here is a quick sketch, it is easier to understand:

JMiller · Apr 30, 2018

Thank you for the sketch Alain... I understand what you mean now.

Sam · May 1, 2018

Thank you for that Alain. I will give that a try.

And thank you John B....always good advice from you!

Mitch: For my work, I find that a 120Â° carbide graver makes the cleanest and darkest lines of all my gravers. I've used them in gold but I've also used a common square graver very effectively. In steel I rarely have to debur my work, but in 24k some extremely light deburring seems necessary as the metal is so soft that it furrows around the lines. Anyway, try a carbide 120 and report back.

Best point for fine lines in 24kt gold?

mitch

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