Ken Onion Kershaw Layout

LVCIAN

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So with all of your encouragement, I'm diving in.
I'd love a little constructive criticism on this design before it becomes perminant.

Is it flowing correctly, well balanced? Are all the shapes "working"?

Any thoughts at all.
 

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MoldyJim

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I like it.
Not all the scrolls starting from a single point, some will question that.
But styles change and evolve. Kinda like the Pirate's code, just guidelines right?

I've scratched on a few of the Kershaws, the aluminum scales cut beautifully.
Different colors of anodizing make the engraving really stand out.
I also tried one of the little rainbow chive (?) with the titanium oxide coating.
It was difficult to cut the surface and not chip the tools frequently.
 

Sam

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What you have is balanced and it should make for a successful engraving job. I'm not crazy about the top left leaf arrangement. If you're up for it, you might want to try something different there.

Your scroll elements should all work reasonably well with shading, which is something I strive for when designing (I actually design around shading).

It's a bit of an awkward growth at the bottom where the scrolls originate from the circle. An adjustment there will make it look much better.
 

Sam

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Ok, I just realized that you have 4 scrolls growing from these circles which i assume are screws. The bottom one could use some work as I said. The other three I might have handled differently but I think they'll be ok.
 

LVCIAN

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Thank you both for the advice. I after sleeping on it I do not like the second internal leaf on the 3 bottom scrolls.

Iill try to incorporate all of these changes.

For what it's worth. I didn't really like having 4 different origination points. But those screws were giving me fits.

I should be able to post the results of the engraving in a few days.
 

Southern Custom

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For what it's worth I quite like that leaf you are looking to change. My only observation is that the backbone of the main scrolls, especially toward the base, seems a bit thin to carry the weight of the leaves. and it's really a matter of my personal taste rather than a fundamental flaw. I've always believed that backbone weight should be proportional to what is growing off of it.
Sam's points on top and bottom are good. Overall I like your solution for the screw heads.
 

Ron Jr.

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I don't know anything (less than anything actually) about your scrolls or the design but I do know about Ken Onion Kershaws. If you've already started you're learning about the extremely tough surface on these knives, if you have not started do yourself a HUGE favor and sand that bead blasted finish off. Its VERY tough stuff to cut and where the laser engraved name is, forget it. I tired to recut the name once and couldn't even get a cut started. Once you sand that surface off it cuts beautifully IMO.
 

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LVCIAN

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I took a series of stones to the surface to get the bead blasting and laser etching off. But the 410 stainless is super tough. I'm under the impression it's spring hard to accommodate the frame lock on the other side.
 
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FerrousOxide

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I don't know anything (less than anything actually) about your scrolls or the design but I do know about Ken Onion Kershaws. If you've already started you're learning about the extremely tough surface on these knives, if you have not started do yourself a HUGE favor and sand that bead blasted finish off. Its VERY tough stuff to cut and where the laser engraved name is, forget it. I tired to recut the name once and couldn't even get a cut started. Once you sand that surface off it cuts beautifully IMO.

Hey Ron, I have one of these knives...love the look and was eager to engrave... then "holy #$&%@*" when I tried to cut it. I like your suggestion to sand off the finish. Question: do you take the scales off to sand them? What range of grit will take it off and not remove too much metal or leave marks in the stainless?
Thanks for any tips...
Rob
 

LVCIAN

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Spent some time playing with layout on these knife scales. I'm really enjoying designing in a defined space.

If only I enjoyed cutting this material as much...
 

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Ron Jr.

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Hey Ron, I have one of these knives...love the look and was eager to engrave... then "holy #$&%@*" when I tried to cut it. I like your suggestion to sand off the finish. Question: do you take the scales off to sand them? What range of grit will take it off and not remove too much metal or leave marks in the stainless?
Thanks for any tips...
Rob

Hey Rob, Yes I disassemble them to prep the surface so grit does not get into everything. They are relatively simple to take apart and put back together. You'll need some proper grease for the flip action spring pocket. As for sanding off the surface I do the standard and start with 120 grit and work my way up to 1000-1200 and then polish. Surface prep for scroll or the like I think most guys don't go much past 400-600. Don't worry that much about removing too much metal. They are a pretty hefty and thick handled knife, you would really have to work at it to remove too much metal. And actually IMO you are better off removing a little extra material as I think that surface is work hardened relatively deep from that bead blasting.
 

MoldyJim

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Nicely done, I do like that one more.
I still think you might try a practice on one of the aluminum scaled Kershaw's.
Yeah, not as classy as the stainless, but a $30 practice knife is worth the work if you can sell it for the right price.
I sold 5 last spring at a knife show, figure I made at least $35 an hour for my hobby time.
A stainless one needs more time and takes more money to make it worth the effort.
Plus, the ladies really like the bright color contrast.
 

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