mdengraver
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Has anyone tried to do transfers with pure beeswax you get at the beauty supply. Just curious. It's certainly tacky enough!
Beeswax Transfers
- Thread starter mdengraver
- Start date
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Long, long ago, we used to dissolve beeswax in a solvent - paint it on the surface and then when dry - transfer a pencil drawing by burnishing.
The drawing, of course, was reversed...
And you had to go over the transfer with a scribe, because the beeswax could be smudged with a finger.
But it worked. There was nothing more advanced for many years yet.
Brian
The drawing, of course, was reversed...
And you had to go over the transfer with a scribe, because the beeswax could be smudged with a finger.
But it worked. There was nothing more advanced for many years yet.
Brian
try a tub of sam's transfer wax. it's innexpensive and works good. i've probably spent over 50 bucks concocting different batches. results-- a couple were the equal of his was, but none were really any better. his is based on beeswax.
mdengraver
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Monk, I have Sam's transfer wax I was just curiou!
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Apples & oranges... one is used in a dry state, the other stays sticky.
B.
B.
I have found that pure beeswax is a bit too stiff for transfers, which is why it's cut with tallow.
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
The reason that I said "apples and oranges" - is because the soft wax is used for one kind of transfer and the other mix is made for another kind of transfer...
I will make up a small batch of the lead pencil transfer mixture and send it to Sam. (with directions)
They DO have differing uses.
Brian
Ummmm, we didn't use 8 and 10 hard lead in those days - so using a drawing made with one of those might not work well?
I will make up a small batch of the lead pencil transfer mixture and send it to Sam. (with directions)
They DO have differing uses.
Brian
Ummmm, we didn't use 8 and 10 hard lead in those days - so using a drawing made with one of those might not work well?
zzcutter
Elite Cafe Member
Brian,
I still do it that way, Guess I am just old school or maybe OLD.
I still do it that way, Guess I am just old school or maybe OLD.
Used to make up our own transfer wax, even put in a little bit of rouge in it because we thought it would show up better. Bees wax, lamb tallow and various other things and boy did it stink up the joint when we made it.
But there is nothing better than Sam's transfer wax. The first time I tried it I bought another six tins and passed them out to the other engravers I knew. I thought it was amazing then and even with using inkjet printer transfers , the wax still gets a workout today.
But there is nothing better than Sam's transfer wax. The first time I tried it I bought another six tins and passed them out to the other engravers I knew. I thought it was amazing then and even with using inkjet printer transfers , the wax still gets a workout today.
Dave London
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Another use for transfer wax is reduce the glare on what ever shiny thing you are engraving. Thanks to Daniel Houwer
beware ! mike du made a batch using chapstick. it works very nicely. but--- don't use the madicated type-- use the plain. the medicated type makes ones' home uninhabitable for a week or so !
RT Bit and Spur
Elite Cafe Member
- Joined
- May 17, 2007
- Messages
- 279
Would you use the transfer wax with the copier and acetone type transfers
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Sam has a DVD on the use use of the tallow based transfer wax...
The one I was talking about was used to transfer pencil drawings to the metal. No DVD or video that I know of?
Neither method has anything to with the laser/acetone transfer. (The first two are apples & oranges) The laser copies didn't exist back then.
Brian
The one I was talking about was used to transfer pencil drawings to the metal. No DVD or video that I know of?
Neither method has anything to with the laser/acetone transfer. (The first two are apples & oranges) The laser copies didn't exist back then.
Brian
mitch
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2007
- Messages
- 2,636
RT- that's a completely different type of process.
Transfer wax is used for transferring a design that's already been engraved. It's also used for layout as you can draw through it with a pencil.
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
The "transfer" wax or solution that I am talking about is a liquid (beeswax in solvent) that is painted on a surface and allowed to dry.
A pencil drawing (in reverse, and using lead softer than 9 or 10) is then burnished lightly and the graphite is pulled off the paper and left on the surface of the article to be engraved.
Because it is wax, it's easy to smudge, so either you are careful to keep your fingers outta the way, or you scribe the design for security...
Brian
A pencil drawing (in reverse, and using lead softer than 9 or 10) is then burnished lightly and the graphite is pulled off the paper and left on the surface of the article to be engraved.
Because it is wax, it's easy to smudge, so either you are careful to keep your fingers outta the way, or you scribe the design for security...
Brian
Yes Dave, It's good cutting the glare. Also try dabbing it with plain old modeling clay, works wonders and is really quick.
You can also press the modeling clay into a previously cut element or scroll and make a quick transfer mould.
antbody remember the old buffalo pad? it worked, but sort of died along with the dinosaurs. it was very handy for creating multiple copies on an engraving. i have one, but seldom use it.
mdengraver
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Buffalo Transfer Pad (See Attachment)
Patented June 5, 1923. Back before engraving machines and laser cutters hand engravers used this tool to transfer a design to multiple items that had to match. Silverware, club insignias, badges, etc.
Many edge configurations to position items and a reversible tacky pad to transfer the image.
"Rub powered whiting into the cuts of the engraving to be copied, and wipe off the surplus. Press the engraving down on the transfer pad, remove it, and you will have the form of the engraving where the whiting was deposited. Daub a film of tallow on the piece that is to be engraved, and press it down on the transfer pad, over the whiting design. This will imprint the design on the piece. Several impressions can be made from each whiting transfer."
Patented June 5, 1923. Back before engraving machines and laser cutters hand engravers used this tool to transfer a design to multiple items that had to match. Silverware, club insignias, badges, etc.
Many edge configurations to position items and a reversible tacky pad to transfer the image.
"Rub powered whiting into the cuts of the engraving to be copied, and wipe off the surplus. Press the engraving down on the transfer pad, remove it, and you will have the form of the engraving where the whiting was deposited. Daub a film of tallow on the piece that is to be engraved, and press it down on the transfer pad, over the whiting design. This will imprint the design on the piece. Several impressions can be made from each whiting transfer."
Attachments
-
buffalo transfer pad.jpg
Last edited:
Sponsors
