Background Removal Tools

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Aug 30, 2016
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I am currently working on a knife that many of you have likely seen from other posts and I am currently on the background removal of the knife. I was curious as to what you guys use for the removal. Currently I am using a 0.5mm bur on the more open spots and a 90 degree graver for the tight areas. Are there advantages to certain methods?
 

Rstripnieks

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I think you just answered your own question,
Bur is faster but not so accurate . Graver is for tight places but you will dull it quicker..
 

John B.

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I am currently working on a knife that many of you have likely seen from other posts and I am currently on the background removal of the knife. I was curious as to what you guys use for the removal. Currently I am using a 0.5mm bur on the more open spots and a 90 degree graver for the tight areas. Are there advantages to certain methods?

A traditional way to remove background is to make multiple, closely spaced cuts throughout the area and then remove the ridges between the bottom of the cuts. This helps to maintain an even depth field.
The ridge removal is traditionally done with a narrow flat graver or a narrow, fine line liner.
The liner method aids in texturing the background.
Either of these methods is usually followed by a wider liner or flat to smooth the background.
This is also often followed by a small textured punch to create an even texture.
If you want to use a rotary bur I would still advise to make the multi cross cuts with a graver first and use the bur to remove the ridges.
The cross cuts go fast and can be arranged in a way to take care of most of the tough tight corners that the bur can't get to.
And you will windup with a smoother, even depth background.
 
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JJ Roberts

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taylor,I would keep using the 90 degree and cross hatch the background removal and stay away from power tools,it will keep you out of trouble. J.J.
 

monk

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parallel lines with a 90. lower a bit with a flat. dive a bit more with a flat wriggle. repeat as needed. rotary is cool, and quick, but very unforgiving in the wrong hands.
 
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parallel lines with a 90. lower a bit with a flat. dive a bit more with a flat wriggle. repeat as needed. rotary is cool, and quick, but very unforgiving in the wrong hands.

Could agree on the rotary, had a minor slip last night and nicked a bit of the design. Luckily for me it was light enough that I can sand it out. My biggest issue on this knife has been that I went too deep on the background removal and am now paying for it with my time. In the future I will definitely not be doing as deep of a removal, however this is my first project and first knife so I am learning as I go. Thanks for the insight! Hopefully will have something to show for it by the end of the weekend.
 

JJ Roberts

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taylor a single point 90 degree is all you need to removing the background. J.J.
 

monk

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Could agree on the rotary, had a minor slip last night and nicked a bit of the design. Luckily for me it was light enough that I can sand it out. My biggest issue on this knife has been that I went too deep on the background removal and am now paying for it with my time. In the future I will definitely not be doing as deep of a removal, however this is my first project and first knife so I am learning as I go. Thanks for the insight! Hopefully will have something to show for it by the end of the weekend.
fret not. experience may provide cruel instruction, but you will never forget what you learned. i reckon there's no engraver that has not made such a time -wasting blunder.
 

Dani Girl

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116 that I used to cut the leaves, leaned out to bevel the background down, then turn the 116 and cut lines around the background, flat gravers to remove background... small and then smaller to get into tighter spots, burrs used occasionaly depending on what I'm doing... great for getting into tight concaves.

Make sure you show us how you go??
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2016
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Location
Saratoga, CA
116 that I used to cut the leaves, leaned out to bevel the background down, then turn the 116 and cut lines around the background, flat gravers to remove background... small and then smaller to get into tighter spots, burrs used occasionaly depending on what I'm doing... great for getting into tight concaves.

I was actually viewing your work earlier this morning and saw some of the cuts you made into the background(slowly learning from others techniques). Here is a progress pic of my work thus far (still lots of background removal left). The design isn't mine, its a practice blade I picked up from GRS that had a design on it already to practice my engraving technique and develop muscle memory. My design skills are lacking and I am working on it everyday by drawing a lot.
 

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