Help, please: help needed, want to learn how to make molds and cast 1911 grips in silver

I'm lookin for someone to teach me how to make molds and cast 1911 grips in silver. I contacted Shawn he sent me over to Silverchip, I called him but I guess hes out on sprig break vacation was not able to reach him, and just wanted to check the forum and see who would take me under their wing.

Thanks

I'm thinking you would be ahead to form them vs. casting them.

Stewart

you want to do full molding and casting?

there are a few moving parts, but it is basically pretty simple (like graving is simple, which is to say, that there are a few basic principles, the rub is in the execution)

for your mold you can either do an injection mold, or a push mold.

i'll talk about the push mold, because there is less equipment to purchase, but comes with its challenges..
so mount your grip to a flat surface.. the instruction will warn against this (reason, moisture), but i just use matting paper for all my molds (injection, or otherwise). makae a dam around your grip with the paper (or lego, or cleanklay, or whatever), seal with hot glue.
get a high durometer two part silicon, and mix it, and pour it into your mold, if possible, not directly on your object.

if you have it, use a vacuum chamber and bring it up to 30lbs presure... you will see your rubber boil.. let those bubbles come up, and then release them before they spill over your mold walls... bring it up to "boiling" a few times.... note its air bubbles releasing, not boiling in a convenmtional sense.

let it cure overnight
remove grips fr mold
up till now, is just the basics...
now how to get a long flat mold, like grips, to work, is the trick

i heat my mold up quite a bit with a heat gun.. uncomfortable, but not too hot to touch.. warm wax to thr absolute minimum that it will flow (too hot, and you get tiny bubbles)
and then cool the mold in a warm, (but off ) oven.. this will help to counteract the waxes tendancy to hrink and curl as it cools... a particular problem with flatter objects

casting, you might want to get an outfit to do it for you.. if you do it yourself. you make a wax "tree" whose branch terminus is your grips.. a concept of how the metal will flow (along the branches) is key to success.. also rounding any corners... when the wax is melted out, sharp corners become spot where little chips of plaster can break off and create porosity in your silver.
if it is sufficiently heavy, then you can gravity pour. if you gravity pour, it can help to make wax vent from the top of your model back around to the same surface as your sprue.. if its only a few ounces, then you will need a centifical caster (no vents needed)

bronc said:

I'm thinking you would be ahead to form them vs. casting them.

Stewart

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im looking to cast them

chujybear

Thanks for the reply, I do not mind investing in the equipment nor do I mind traveling to learn. Ive seen some videos on you tube and get the gist of how its done just need someone with the expertise to get me there faster, kind of like taking a grs class, will just save you time and frustration.

here is a video i was watching.

https://youtu.be/njuQu19r1Fc

I do my own investment casting. But none other. Look up polytek. They sell all the molding stuff and have info on the process. It will not be cost effective for you to cast less than a couple hundred because you will need a burnout furnace and a crucible furnace among other equipment.
Even if you make your own waxes you will need a vacuum pump and chambers and some mixing equipment stop watch scales etc etc.
Also it takes about double the silver by weight to make a casting because of the sprues and trees. Not to mention investment flasks .
Anytime someone thinks something is easy the yjust don't know much about it. Never fails. Also a wax injector.

jerrywh said:

I do my own investment casting. But none other. Look up polytek. They sell all the molding stuff and have info on the process. It will not be cost effective for you to cast less than a couple hundred because you will need a burnout furnace and a crucible furnace among other equipment.
Even if you make your own waxes you will need a vacuum pump and chambers and some mixing equipment stop watch scales etc etc.
Also it takes about double the silver by weight to make a casting because of the sprues and trees. Not to mention investment flasks .
Anytime someone thinks something is easy the yjust don't know much about it. Never fails. Also a wax injector.

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Jerry,

I know what it takes I love to read on my spare time, I have a shop full of engraving equipment and knife making equipment, when I set my goals on something I commit to time and equipment, I love working with my hands and aquiring tools is my hobby. I just need someone to show me hands on.

Carlos- i have some vacuum eqpt i've occasionally thought about selling. just don't use it enough. let me know if you're interested.

mitch said:

Carlos- i have some vacuum eqpt i've occasionally thought about selling. just don't use it enough. let me know if you're interested.

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Mitch,

Definitely intrested, send me a text 956.433.3453

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How many grips do you intend to make? There are options to start with inexpensive casting and mold making processes and work your way up to more expensive equipment if you need it. Is there a Gem and Mineral club locally,a number of them have fully stocked shops for club members.See link for one option.......

http://www.myheap.com/casting-moldi...-casting/steam-casting-lessons.html?showall=1

Carlos.
I made almost all my own equipment. Like I said get in touch with ploytek.They sell the silicone mold products. This is going to take up too much time on this forum and it is unrelated so you probably should contact me via my Email. I have done this for 20 years and can give you all the info you will need. Send me a private message if you want.

DanM said:

How many grips do you intend to make? There are options to start with inexpensive casting and mold making processes and work your way up to more expensive equipment if you need it. Is there a Gem and Mineral club locally,a number of them have fully stocked shops for club members.See link for one option.......

http://www.myheap.com/casting-moldi...-casting/steam-casting-lessons.html?showall=1

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Dan,

Thanks for the reply, great read. How many? hopefully millions, i dont mind spending on quality tools, as with engraving or knife making, only the best tools will to one of my knife grindersnthe Tw90 with all bells and whistles was around 5000. Just ordered a dedicated horizontal grinder, i already own a kiln. Texted with silverchip i know he'll set me straight.

Thank you all for the replies. Youll see my executive zulu spear slip joint knife in the next engraver magazine, according to Andrew. Quality tools help shorten the learning curve.

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jerrywh said:

Carlos.
I made almost all my own equipment. Like I said get in touch with ploytek.They sell the silicone mold products. This is going to take up too much time on this forum and it is unrelated so you probably should contact me via my Email. I have done this for 20 years and can give you all the info you will need. Send me a private message if you want.

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Jerry, will do, thanks

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It's not that expensive to have them cast. There is company in NY that does it and it's fairly reasonable. Check around.

A sculptor friend that recommended going that route said "Do you want to spend your time carving or casting?"

Carlos,

Is there a nearby junior college or college with a fine arts program that includes jewelry and metal smithing? I learned at Joliet Junior College which has a very well taught program.

Regards,
Gary

I did the casting for many years for myself and sold a lot of castings to restorers and makers of antique firearms and swords. Soon I found that I had to make a decision. Was I going to be an Engraver and a gun maker or was I going to be a foundry worker. I did not want to be a foundry worker. That was an easy decision. As a result I only do my own stuff and if I had a source that would do silver casting at anywhere near a reasonable cost I would never do my own. I can make 10 times the money engraving at a lot less cost and it is not dangerous.
I would still do my own patterns and make my own waxes because of the art designs involved. The patterns are the creative part the rest is just common labor. Foundry workers do not produce the art.

You might want to try green sand casting, lots of stuff on u-tube. You can get started for under 200.00 easy.
Skill comes from diligence

dlilazteca said:

chujybear

Thanks for the reply, I do not mind investing in the equipment nor do I mind traveling to learn. Ive seen some videos on you tube and get the gist of how its done just need someone with the expertise to get me there faster, kind of like taking a grs class, will just save you time and frustration.

here is a video i was watching.

https://youtu.be/njuQu19r1Fc

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i like his method.. i haven't messed around with vulcanized rubber since jewellery school..
i prefer being able to make molds from waxes and other delicate forms (slate, ivory, etc..)
i think people used to like vulcanized because less shrinkage.. but we don't really get any from our two part.

Carlos...casting grips yourself is going to be a fools errand.

First, the flask size required to fit grips is going to be very large. Ok, no problem. But the problem is the size of the burnout oven, vacuum table and mixing vessel will also need to be extremely large. Most of the equipment for studio jeweler applications are just not big enough. I've tried. It just isn't worth the effort.

The absolute best way to make them in a studio environment is to form them with a steel die and shoe in a hydraulic press. Then solder in place any decorative elements.