Course Gravers for Shading

Southern Custom

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Since I kind of work in a vacuum this may be something everyone else has already figured out but I thought I'd throw this out for opinions.
I was fighting every which way to keep ink in a finished piece recently. Wiping with paper, side of my hand, holding my tongue just right. All of it. And I kept getting shiny areas in my shading where ink just wouldn't hold.
So I started to think, why am I using a polished graver to make these cuts when a course edge would leave some "tooth" in the cut walls and therefore hold the ink better? I also switched to a 96deg to get a deeper shade line with a steeper wall, all with the hope for better ink holding qualities in my work. When I say course, I just mean "not polished", of course.
Anyone else go through this? I"d be happy to accept suggestions and you are free to call me a knucklehead if this was obvious to everyone but me and I just happened to miss the lesson.
Layne
 

monk

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one problem may be the viscosity of the pigment you are using. i have never used ink for block printing. i have used rustoleum black with little problem. in use, i found it better, if i let a few drops sit outside of the can for awhile. i think that made it just a tad less runny.
 

Riflesmith

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I've used rustoleum in the past but have switched to jewelry antiquing! You might also use a little ferric chloride to etch the surfaces.
 

tdelewis

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I have mostly used Rustoleum flat black or black stove paint. It is what most use. It should be diluted a little before applying. I have a concoction I take when traveling. It is a mixture of Rennaissance wax and inletting black. Inletting black is very black. I mix it in a small plastic container. When applying it is diluted with some lighter fluid. It can be very sticky and will build up in places you may not want. Inletting black came from Brownell's I think. I have had it for years.
 

Andrew Biggs

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Hi Layne

Yes, your observations are correct. Polished graver cuts don't hold the paint/ink very well.

My experience is that a 1200 or 600 grit for the heel gives it just enough rough surface to make the paint/ink adhere better.

Cheers
Andrew
 

Southern Custom

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Thanks Andrew. I was hoping I wasn't alone on this one. And I agree about grit. When I said course I should have clarified that I only meant "not high polish"
My everyday wheel is an old Glendo that I would guess is around 800 but very worn. So worn that the outside 1/4" edge produces a very high polish. I helped it along by using another diamond stone to polish out the leading edge even more than it already was. As I move closer to the center, the wheel approaches it's original grit. Very handy as I only need to sharpen in a different spot to get a different result. I wouldn't trade that wheel for 6 new ones. I do keep several others around but this one takes care of 90% of my day to day sharpening chores.
I also should have clarified that when I said "ink" I in fact meant Rustoleum. Can't beat that stuff in my experience for tenacity.
Layne
 

stick

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I watched a lot of videos of Shaun H. on Youtube engraving coins, and as far as i know he only uses high polished carbide gravers which make very polished cuts. I also see he uses Rustoleum paint and it looks as he has no problem holding his paint in the cuts ??? He does the finger swipe and thats it.
I am just a newbie and also had/have this question. It seems to me (from what i have read and see) that everything is possible if you get the method right (polished graver or not polished graver) ??
 

monk

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I have mostly used Rustoleum flat black or black stove paint. It is what most use. It should be diluted a little before applying. I have a concoction I take when traveling. It is a mixture of Rennaissance wax and inletting black. Inletting black is very black. I mix it in a small plastic container. When applying it is diluted with some lighter fluid. It can be very sticky and will build up in places you may not want. Inletting black came from Brownell's I think. I have had it for years.

where does one obtain the inletting black ? is it a powder, or maybe a paste?
 

John B.

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where does one obtain the inletting black ? is it a powder, or maybe a paste?

Brownells have the inletting black Jay. You can get it in powder form called Epoxy Black #083-009-004
That may be an old number. I've had mine since God made dirt. :)
You can also mix it with wax or most any adhesive. I sometime add it to black oil base printers ink to make it thicker.
i also mix it to white printers ink when I want a gray background or shading.
 

Leland Davis

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monk, most of the black powder gun parts suppliers have inletting black I get mine from Track of the Wolf
Leland
 

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