Is there some reason to use only black to color a deep relief background or line cuts? I sometimes use Dykem layout fluid to give my line cuts a beautiful sort of blue chrome finish. I don't know how durable it is but ,it looks great. What about green or red or some other color. Is there a reason ? What about a different medium than paint like, ink or wax ?
Is there a reason to use only black to color a background ?
- Thread starter speeedy6
- Start date
Speedy6,
Many times I use various shades of gray ink for backgrounds.
I use Speedball oil based printers ink and mix black and white and sometimes add little brown together if I want a beige-gray.
This is particularly pleasing on a satin stainless gun giving nice contrast without being too overwhelming.
Give it a try, you might like it.
PS. I will go through my picture file later and see if I can find an example to post . ( if I can remember how to post pics)
Sorry, just went through my pics and found I had cleared out the ones with the grey ink backgrounds.
Many times I use various shades of gray ink for backgrounds.
I use Speedball oil based printers ink and mix black and white and sometimes add little brown together if I want a beige-gray.
This is particularly pleasing on a satin stainless gun giving nice contrast without being too overwhelming.
Give it a try, you might like it.
PS. I will go through my picture file later and see if I can find an example to post . ( if I can remember how to post pics)
Sorry, just went through my pics and found I had cleared out the ones with the grey ink backgrounds.
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pilkguns
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Years ago I did a spec knife with a ivory handle engraved in Victorian scroll with red in the background. I thought it looked kick ass But after it being at four or five shows unsold I got disgusted and took the red out and replaced it with black. Someone bought it at the next show.
YMMV
RDP
Elite Cafe Member
If you read the replies to this thread by David, you'll find that other colors can be nice for certain things.
http://www.engraverscafe.com/showthread.php?18196-Titanium-Ring-Blue-or-Black
Richard.
it would be a matter of convention, i think. best to discuss with yer client. make a few sample plates. color a few, and do one in the traditional black. it's simply an option you can provide to a potential customer. one must avoid going bonkers using color/s. less is better than more, in most cases.
And whether you use wax or paint, etc., will depend a lot on if the item will be handled a much or not. I like to use Renaissance wax with a touch of lamp black for blackening the background of aluminum inlays I engrave for guitars and such. Helps keep the aluminum bright and gives a really nice flat black contrast to the engraving. Plastic castings "ink" really fast with this method and it is so easy to replace should the need arise. So far it has lasted a long time.
FANCYGUN
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Wax and ink works really well i use it on my castings and many times on guns Usually i rub an oil base ink into the engraving, then take dab of butchers paste wax and rub that into the engraving mixing it with the ink i let it dry for a few minutes then lightly rub it off the surface with a paper towel if the ink is stubborn just add a dab to you finger and rub some more finish up with a clean piece of white writing paper Works real good on animals
Steve L S
Member
I did a brass plaque earlier this year with art noveau style corner accents. These were filled with Tulip Red Baroque art gilders paste and wiped with tarlatan, enough colour remained to match the brass and the heavy honey coloured Tasmanian myrtle board it was fixed to.
Dani Girl
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Oil paint. I did a job recently where I was asked to put a blue rose onto something. I engraved it and painted it, dabbing off the excess, blue oil paint on the flower, white highlights here and there mixing in with the blue, and black oil paint on the background. I sent it off to the customer with the paint freshly applied because it was last minute. Sent him some sandpaper... keen to see the result and i offered to have it back one day to remove more metal on the rose and put more blue in if it's desired.
I would say do whatever appeals to you ... if you need to sell it do what appeals to customers. Keen to see what you come up with.
mitch
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2007
- Messages
- 2,636
hi Danae-
the 3D effect on the square plate is ruined by the inconsistent position of the shadows. all four leaves would require their own different lighting angle and the viewer's mind won't buy it. to some extent, it's even inconsistent/impossible on individual leaves. for example, on the lower left leaf, the lighting angle is mostly kinda from the upper left (NNE), but the shadow of the very tip indicates a lighting angle from almost straight below. the engraving is good, but...
also, if you're going to do this sort of thing, it helps to shade the leaves themselves with that consistent lighting angle, as well. you're mixing styles.
the key to convincing 3D trompe l'oeil is consistently giving the mind's eye what it really expects to see.
best,
m
the 3D effect on the square plate is ruined by the inconsistent position of the shadows. all four leaves would require their own different lighting angle and the viewer's mind won't buy it. to some extent, it's even inconsistent/impossible on individual leaves. for example, on the lower left leaf, the lighting angle is mostly kinda from the upper left (NNE), but the shadow of the very tip indicates a lighting angle from almost straight below. the engraving is good, but...
also, if you're going to do this sort of thing, it helps to shade the leaves themselves with that consistent lighting angle, as well. you're mixing styles.
the key to convincing 3D trompe l'oeil is consistently giving the mind's eye what it really expects to see.
best,
m
Ok, it looks like the consensus is to add color if the customer or I want it. Just don't go overboard. I like the idea of different shades of gray as John B. described to tone down the brightness but not distract. And I'll be trying that wax application too. Thank you to all that posted, Mark
Here, I found it. Two of my pictures of a 1911 stainless long slide with gray inking.
Attachments
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IMG_0723.jpg -
IMG_0722.jpg
Dave London
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Mr John
Do you anneal the 1911 slide stop and safety, the one I have worked on were like trying to cut glass. Thanks
Do you anneal the 1911 slide stop and safety, the one I have worked on were like trying to cut glass. Thanks
atexascowboy2011
Elite Cafe Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2012
- Messages
- 997
Great layout, pattern and execution John !
As far as annealing a stainless slide, besides the stainless warping factor, the time needed to cleanly anneal and then reharden would not be worth it.
As far as annealing a stainless slide, besides the stainless warping factor, the time needed to cleanly anneal and then reharden would not be worth it.
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Thank you for looking Dave.
No I don't anneal the safety or slide stop because I'm kinda afraid to take a chance that someone could get hurt.
About every one I do I swear that the next one gets annealed.
But just like the ladies after childbirth I seem to forget the pain.
What I do is make a couple of test cuts on the back side and usually wind up nubbing the graver point and slightly radiusing the heel.
Very light cutting and maybe cut three times to get to depth.
Dave London
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Thanks John
I will try dubbing the point next time
I will try dubbing the point next time
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