Transitioning to air power.

Bluetickhound

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I just purchased an older GraverMach and several other tools on the buy sell page and am now set up to step away from hand pushing and join the modern world... I followed the GRS instructions for adjusting the hand piece and setting the bias so my question is this:

Are there exercises, tips, etc for acclimating myself into the pneumatic world? Sharpening the gravers isn't an issue as I have Sam's video for that, along with all the necessary equipment. The first (and so far, ONLY) graver I have tried has been a C-max 120 degree and if I'm not really careful (and sometimes even if I am!) it digs right in and I'm really not on the foot pedal much at all, at least I don't think I am anyway....
Like I said though, I just got the system set up for the first time today so I imagine I have to get a feel for it before getting too concerned... Any advise would be appreciated though!
 

Marrinan

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It is in the wrist angle--time with your tool will fix that. I know some folks like Sam use 120 as primary tool. I find it harder to control and use mostly the 90. I don't do bight cut much so the 90 and 105 are my usual goto tools.. Fred
 

John B.

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Bluetickhond,
I know it sounds silly but one thing you might find useful with the foot pedal early on is to go without shoes during your learning curve.
You will be surprised how much extra "feel" this gives you. Give it a try
 

Bluetickhound

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I know Sam is a proponent of the 120 so I really want to get used to using it from the get go. With wrist angle should it be higher? Lower? Seems like holding lower would help keep the tool from digging in so badly.
 

Andrew Biggs

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Don't overthink it

Hammer the crap out of it....go hard, go medium, go light and put it through it's paces with straight lines, curves etc.....you will quickly get the feel of how it all works.

Then you can concentrate on technique. What we do relies on confidence between your hand and how the tool you are using performs

Angle of attack and how your graver starts/enters the cut. To deep then lower your hand. Skidding them raise your hand. Find the sweet spot.
Raise your hand for tight curves
Roll the graver over for flaring the cuts on leaves
Apply power only when your graver is in the metal and not before

Practice and applying common sense to what you are doing goes a long way. If something isn'y working after a while.......then stop and think about what you are doing.

Cheers
Andrew
 

Bluetickhound

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That makes total sense. I just didn't want to start out establishing bad habits but it sounds like air power isn't a whole lot different from hand push in regards to having to discover by trial what works (and doesn't work) for the individual behind the graver. I will say that I can totally see what Sam said about air power cutting the learning curve... And what he said about air power helping make bad engravings more rapidly!! When I gain some confidence and graver control air power will be the ticket. It is already making some amazing cuts for me. I can't wait to see what the next days, weeks and months will bring!
 

gcleaker

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Bluetickhond,
I know it sounds silly but one thing you might find useful with the foot pedal early on is to go without shoes during your learning curve.
You will be surprised how much extra "feel" this gives you. Give it a try

Funny I started the same way. I thought I was just like being silly but I'm glad to hear I'm not.

Skill comes from diligence.
 

Flashmo

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The air assist system will not make you any better of an engraver than you were hand pushing. It may speed up your learning curve.

The 120 degree graver will not cut any easier or more beautifully than what you were using before.

This whole skill of engraving is about self control. Your mind has to communicate to your hands and feet. Your mind has to be able to control those appendages to make them hold and move the graver in a manner to get the result you are after.

It is all about practice. Read Marinan's signature...over and over and over...

Based on your past posts, you will get there. Just settle in and fill your 5 gallon bucket.
 

speeedy6

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Make sure on your fine cuts to raise up the graver so the face of graver is doing the cutting. I was getting frustrated with my shading cuts till I slowed down and watched my graver tip at high magnification. I was plowing through the metal with the heel not cutting but pushing the metal aside making my fine " cuts " looks like a plowed furrow. The newfound power and ease of cutting may make you want to go too fast also. My cuts improve when I slow down, very slow. I still have to remind myself often to slow down.
I cut barefoot too. Socks gather chips, ouch !
 

Sam

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The 120 is a superb graver that can add sparkle and character to cuts. It's also very strong since it's such a wide V. It's very sensitive to tilt, so just a small amount is all that's needed to produce beautiful beveled cuts. Once you tame it, it will reward you with brilliant cuts that are full of life.

Keep the heels of your gravers short. About 1/4mm is all that's needed. If they're too short the graver will dig deeply and not want to go forward. Too much heel and you get heel drag when cutting curves.

As stated, a pneumatic system won't make you a better engraver, but it will greatly reduce the learning curve, plus it will give you more control to make certain cuts far easier than doing them by hand push or with hammer & chisel.
 

Bluetickhound

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I think the heel being too short is my issue with the digging as even with the Optivisor's attached loupe (Leica A60 will be joining the arsenal as soon as possible) I can barely see it. Will fix that when I get home tonight.
 

Sam

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I think the heel being too short is my issue with the digging as even with the Optivisor's attached loupe (Leica A60 will be joining the arsenal as soon as possible) I can barely see it. Will fix that when I get home tonight.

Hold the heel next to the millimeter side of a ruler to estimate the size at about 1/4mm so you can get a visual. Once you become familiar with it you'll be able to eyeball it just fine. You're better to err on the heel being to large than too small.
 

DKanger

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I think the heel being too short is my issue with the digging
What is your heel angle? It determines how far you will "lift" your graver once you start your cut. For example, say it's 20 degrees. When cutting, your graver should be 20 degrees to your work. If you hold it at 22 degrees, you will dig in. If you hold it at 18 degrees, you'll skid out of your work. How you hold your graver and the size of your hand can affect this. You need to use a heel angle that will accommodate this. Use a protractor and take a look at where it's supposed to be vs. where you are holding. Then make any adjustments required.
 

Bluetickhound

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I have the GRS dual angle sharpener and I am using a 45 degree face with a 15 degree heel. You're right on concerning AOA though. Too steep = dig in, too shallow = slip... The good news for me is that a slip doesn't require medical attention now!! I'm pretty sure Sam's advice on the heel length is money and I'm really looking forward to getting home and fixing that.
 

monk

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That makes total sense. I just didn't want to start out establishing bad habits but it sounds like air power isn't a whole lot different from hand push in regards to having to discover by trial what works (and doesn't work) for the individual behind the graver. I will say that I can totally see what Sam said about air power cutting the learning curve... And what he said about air power helping make bad engravings more rapidly!! When I gain some confidence and graver control air power will be the ticket. It is already making some amazing cuts for me. I can't wait to see what the next days, weeks and months will bring!

go with less heel. that could be a problem. a larger heel will make it very easy to dive in.
 

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