adjustable engraving bench

Eugene Carkoski

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I've found a reasonably priced adjustable engraving table which I've made a few modifications
I added a thrust bearing and washer between table in the supporting arm, allows it to move freely
see attached photos and video.
 

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mitch

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so you're actually using the press table as a rotating base? clever....
 

peteb

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rotating engraving base

I modified a bench model from harbor freight drill press as shown. I used a ball thrust under the table and added an air cylinder to lock down the vise which is free to slide by unlocking the cylinder. The drill press head I used for the power home function as shown in photo 3 2.jpg 3.jpg 11.jpg
 

Jerry K

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Very clever indeed. Can I assume that you use a foot peddle to manage the air cylinder? Without the stand to support the drill head you must have had to build a pretty stout support system?
 

Sam

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Rex Pedersen put a thrust bearing on his as well. I need to try that with mine and see how it compares to a turntable.
 

peteb

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power hone

These 2 photos show that the sharpening discs actually ride on a shaft with a sprocket for a seat assembled thru two 1/2 plate bearings. The 2nd photo shows what is actually a PVC coupling that uses an o ring which is cobbled up to drive the sharpening disc. The spindle return spring on the head is reversed to apply down pressure. It is a very quick change system. The bench it self has one leg which is the press base and column, a back leg and a third leg near to the drill press head to support the weight. Thus the bench ends up having 2 tiers.<br>

5.jpg
7.jpg
 

Riflesmith

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Sam, you can also get bearings and thrust washers/races that are in perfectly good condition from any transmission repair shop.
 

Mike_Morgan

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Rex Pedersen put a thrust bearing on his as well. I need to try that with mine and see how it compares to a turntable.

After seeing this thread, I went straight online to McMaster and purchased the thrust bearing and associated washers. I removed my turntable from the table of the Drill Press stand. I put a little grease on the post of the cast Iron table, and put it all back together with the thrust bearing in place. Sam... it makes a WONDERFUL turntable.

My next step was to get a little more clearance between the turntable, and the Stand Post. I removed the bracket section that goes from the column to the turntable by removing the pivot bolt, and I grabbed a 6" length of 3.5" Aluminum rod, and drilled a hole down the center of it. Then I grabbed a longer bolt to hold everything together, so now I have a LOT more clearance (6 extra inches, actually) between the post and the center of the newly fashioned turntable.

In the time span of two days, I went from having a 10" turntable to 12", added more clearance and have an amazingly functional setup. This forum ROCKS!
 
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RDP

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Mike, that is an excellent idea, I did struggle when I engraved a wood working plane, kept bumping on the post, never thought of that simple solution, thanks, one thing that happens with mine is when I move the vise towards the edge of the turntable, because of the weight, and it has a bit of play in it, the post binds on the support arm, I haven't used any grease on it maybe that's the problem, I will try that next, and yeah, this forum rocks for sure. Thanks again.

Richard
 
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Mike_Morgan

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Mike, that is an excellent idea, I did struggle when I engraved a wood working plane, kept bumping on the post, never thought of that simple solution, thanks, one thing that happens with mine is when I move the vise towards the edge of the turntable, because of the weight, and it has a bit of play in it, the post binds on the support arm, I haven't used any grease on it maybe that's the problem, I will try that next, and yeah, this forum rocks for sure. Thanks again.

Richard

I'm glad you understood my description! Right after I posted it, I realized I should really take some pictures so people can see what the heck I'm talking about... I'll snap some tomorrow when I'm at the shop to help others.
 

Mike_Morgan

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Here are a couple photos that show how I modified the drill press stand to get more clearance from the post. There's now 13" from the center of the turntable (former press table) and the column.

For anybody wanting to try this, the thrust washer is located here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#5909k21/=14ejjdl The washers can be located by following the link towards the bottom of the product detail... I used the 1mm washers (One above, one below the bearing)
 

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Omar Haltam

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very nice setup Mike, i also like you setup for the gravers
the cut off switch looks great, very organized.
 

Mike_Morgan

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very nice setup Mike, i also like you setup for the gravers
the cut off switch looks great, very organized.

Thanks Omar, The airline setup is something I should mention, so I'm glad you noticed it.

I ran two semi rigid airlines through the Acrobat stand... one comes from the Palm Control regulator and terminates in a Luer Lock connector like Lindsay uses on his airlines. The second airline goes from the output of the Lindsay Foot Control regulator to that A/B switch, giving me the ability to switch between the two Lindsay FC Classics. The regulators are mounted on the wall behind the microscope stand.

The actual airlines from the end of the acrobat stand have been shortened to keep them from getting in the way, but I did make up an extension hose with male to female Luer Lock connectors in case I ever need more length... though I've never had to use it... yet.

The airlines stay up out of the way in use, and there is no spaghetti of airlines on the bench! The stand which has the hand-pieces on it is an airbrush stand from harbor freight. It's perfect for this application.
 

Omar Haltam

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Thanks Mike, that is very smartly done, i will have to look at doing something similar. where can i find a lure lock connector ?

thanks Mike
 

Mike_Morgan

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Luer Lock connectors are available from a variety of sources... the hardest part of the project, for me, was figuring out what the darned things were called!

McMaster has them in stock, here's the whole section. The ones that Lindsay uses are the "impact resistant" versions.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#luer-lock-tube-fittings/=14esjnb

While we're at it, the switch is a junky little thing I found on Amazon... and the reviews are correct, the holes are not threaded correctly... if you opt for one of these things, you'll need to tap the holes to a proper 1/8" NPT thread.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...ailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews

AND... last but not least, the airlines connectors and airlines I used in and out of the switch are:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5779k104/=14espma
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5112k52/=14esq0b <---- This tubing is called flexible, but I think of it as mildly rigid... it works great going through the Acrobat stand... it's flexible, but not "floppy" like the Lindsay tubing. It would not be good for use coming out of the hand-piece.
 
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vdrum4250

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thank you..for the link.. i tried to explain to bearing place my needs, they couldnt help.. this is exactly what i wanted. i bought those pottery ones, but this is better and cheaper and also follow K.I.S.S method..i like
 
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