Question: Hand Pushing Ticks and Commas - Beginner Effiort

Crossbolt

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I started off intending to take a break from fundamentals and practice some very simple leaf and vine borders by hand pushing but, my self discipline being what it is, I soon changed to practicing more of the "tick" or "comma" cuts to try to get a feel for them. I've determined that for me a slightly shallower graver face of 40 to 35 degrees works better for this than the 50 to 45 face. I think I'm getting a reasonable feel for how it's done (basically plunging cuts flicking the burr as described elsewhere). What I seem to be hung up on is improving a curved end to the "comma" particularly when I curve the cut slightly. I've experimented with rounder versus more angular gravers and banking the graver but have yet to hit on something that works effectively. I've watched a few videos and not caught anything and haven't found this explicitly discussed in any archive threads (that might be the keywords I'm using of course).Any input would be appreciated if folks have something they think they can pass on about how they get a rounded rather than angular, pointed broad end to their accent cuts like this. Unfortunately I'm only working with my 'phone camera so images aren't the best. The second one with the pencil tip points to a variation I tried which produced more of a "club" like pattern; what I did here was stand the graver on end and pirouette it producing a small circular pattern. Not what I'm after but something different.
For now its back to demonstrating to myself again how I can't cut a truly straight line :)
 

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Marrinan

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good effort, now practice that last turn and the pop out until you see them in your dreams,, you wake like the doughnut maker and stagger to the bench mumbling about "I got cut the ticks, I got cut the ticks I gotta cut them right,
 

monk

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practice, practice, practice ! when you're sick of it, do some more. cutting straight lines can be difficult. the longer the line, the more difficult to get it right. firstly, when laying out long, straight lines, don't draw them. instead, use a small straight edge with pencil or scriber.
the work you show here, is something every engraver has struggled with early on. some more, some less. except for layout or guide lines, all the single cuts should be done without much thought. with practice, you'll be able to do this "automatically", without "thinking" about each and every little cut. when you get to this point, all those little cuts will become more consistent in placement, depth, width, and will look much better. being an artist, is a journey. it is never a destination. learn to relax and enjoy what you're doing.
 

Marrinan

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One other more serious comment. There is an obvious difference on the right and left sides. some engravers try to cut from the pointed end first which is correct to me but then use a plunge cut then move to the light end of the cut on a back cut. To me this is the wrong approach. Fred
 

Crossbolt

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Yes. Thanks. I'm not sure what you mean by right side. I did find the cuts made to the left worked better than those to the right side of my cutting hand. I'm right handed. Almost all cuts were made in variations of shallow to deep plunging cuts. I experimented with a few cuts going from deep to shallow but found that approach rather unsatisfactory and I am not clear how that type of cut would be used frequently.
Jeremy
 

monk

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this may not be obvious to you, but the border effect (technique) must be consistent thruout. it's crazy, but one little line that differs, will usually be seen by a non engraving person. scroll spine and other details that are off a bit are't so readily noticed, except by other engravers.
 
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