Transferring image to metal

LVCIAN

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Has anyone tried using acetone to transfer the reverse of a printed image to metal?

I'm not having a lot of luck.

The metal is clean, the printed image is as dark as I can make it, and I'm using pure acetone.

Any tips?
 

diandwill

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It must be the wrong ink/printer. Some work and some don't.

My Brother printer does not, but I have an old Canon b/w copier that does. It adds an extra step, but it transfers just fine.
 

Sam

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Has anyone tried using acetone to transfer the reverse of a printed image to metal?

I'm not having a lot of luck.

The metal is clean, the printed image is as dark as I can make it, and I'm using pure acetone.

Any tips?

Acetone only works with laser printers that are not the Brother brand. It will not work with inkjet.
 

Tim Wells

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Please use the search function. Not trying to put you off, this subject has been covered probably more times than any other topic. It's all there for the reading.
 

JJ Roberts

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I either draw directly on the gun, knife or transfer any images which are drawn on Vellum tracing paper.:pencil: J.J.
 

truehand

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Acetone and laser printer is the easiest and most reliable method of transfer. If your laser printer isn't transferring try a different laser printer because the odd one doesn't work at all but most do.

Using the search function on a forum is a painful, time wasting exercise at best.
 

Barry Lee Hands

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I print with an ink jet, then photocopy the image with a dry toner old school photocopier.
If i need to flip the image, i photocopy to a transparency sheet and flip that, and photocopy it onto paper.
After that, I use a cotton ball damp with acetone, if i fail, it is usually from too much acetone puddling the image.
 
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Eric Olson

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I recently had success printing with a regular ink-jet on parchment paper.
I roughed up the surface of the parchment with abrasive paper and it seemed to keep the ink from beading up too much.
Transfer using tacky damar varnish thinned with lighter fluid.
 

monk

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im not trying to spend your money, or make sam wealthy. if you get sams' dvd on pattern transfer, he shows several ways this can be done. all are easily done, but require a bit of practice. transfers are much easier to accurately place, if one uses transparent sheet. parchment works, but not easy to see thru it for accurate placement.
 

Sam

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Using the search function on a forum is a painful, time wasting exercise at best.

Now that's the most ridiculous thing I've ever read here. I use it all the time...in fact just awhile go when I had to dig years back for a google search script.

As I have said 1000 times, use the SITE SEARCH button at the top below the Cafe logo. It's extremely effective.
 

LVCIAN

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I appreciate the recap of an old conversation, the direction, and the clue in about the search function.

At this point I want to use a graver to put my art on metal. I had hoped not to get too bogged down in transfer methods.
Sounds like there is a lot to learn there too.

:) Imagine my surprise to learn that being a metal smith meant I had to know the internal workings of office equipment.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm off to FedEx to see what printers I can get my hands on to test.
 

Sam

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:) Imagine my surprise to learn that being a metal smith meant I had to know the internal workings of office equipment.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm off to FedEx to see what printers I can get my hands on to test.

Transferring printed designs certainly has its place, but please don't think it's mandatory. Many of us draw directly on the metal, which is how we learned back in the day. I caution all my students not to become slaves to transfers. If you do, then you are putting huge limits on how far you can go with this art. If you're just a hobbyist and just want to have fun engraving, then that's fine. If you're going to get serious with it then drawing is an absolute must.
 

LVCIAN

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I am using all my own art. I posted a few pencils.
So far I am drawing directly on the metal but I keep rubbing bits of it off when I make a pass. It's pretty frustrating.
 

Steve L S

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If all else fails, and you don't want to buy A new printer- clean metal surface with alcohol after lightly abrading with 2000 mesh. Print or photocopy your lettering/drawing onto 45gsm Bank Layout paper available from any artists supplier, you may have to carefully tape it to your heavier 80 gsm normal printer paper for it to go through your printer. Lay down a thick layer of artists 'Multi Medium Matte' ( which is a weird kind of gel glue mine is from Ranger Ink) on your metal and laminate the mirror image down onto it with a brayer using heavy pressure.
Do this in the morning, then after lunch soak it in hot water with detergent, then in the evening rub the disintegrated paper fibres off with your fingers. Takes all day to get your transfer done and only on flat plate but permits me to use a printer that doesn't work with other methods
 

Sam

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I am using all my own art. I posted a few pencils.
So far I am drawing directly on the metal but I keep rubbing bits of it off when I make a pass. It's pretty frustrating.

If you're wiping off the design as you're engraving, then you need to start training yourself to engrave without your fingers resting on the surface of the metal. I think most of us prefer to keep a couple of fingers in contact with the surface since it provides a nice stable platform and helps with control, but there will be times when that's not possible. Early in your career it's tough to do, but eventually you'll be able to do it.
 

Dani Girl

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Now that's the most ridiculous thing I've ever read here. I use it all the time...in fact just awhile go when I had to dig years back for a google search script.

As I have said 1000 times, use the SITE SEARCH button at the top below the Cafe logo. It's extremely effective.

Why don't we delete the other search option? Or hide it or something?
 

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