Master engraver?

As a follow up to Andrew's comments, there are those who will say, "I can never engrave a gun because where I live gun ownership requires a restrictive license that is too hard to get." For example NY, MA, NJ or other socialist workers paradises. The answer is to do the work on a replica percussion or flintlock gun. There is no rule that says the gun must be modern, antique or fire fixed ammunition. Even in the most restrictive states, muzzle loading guns have little or no restrictions. A used replica Colt Navy can be bought for as little as $200.

Roger Bleile said:

As a follow up to Andrew's comments, there are those who will say, "I can never engrave a gun because where I live gun ownership requires a restrictive license that is too hard to get." For example NY, MA, NJ or other socialist workers paradises. The answer is to do the work on a replica percussion or flintlock gun. There is no rule that says the gun must be modern, antique or fire fixed ammunition. Even in the most restrictive states, muzzle loading guns have little or no restrictions. A used replica Colt Navy can be bought for as little as $200.

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Thanks for that info Roger. I did a bit of searching for the used replica Colt Navy guns but was hoping you might point out a link to one or two that might be the right quality gun for engraving. I am getting to know watches but still don't know too much about guns. I see quite a few for 70 bucks on ebay but not sure those would cut well? Thank you!

Cabela's has some nice ones! http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/browse/black-powder-revolvers/_/N-1115735/Ns-CATEGORY_SEQ_567338580

Andrew Biggs said:

If you can engrave a watch or a knife then you can engrave a gun.

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Sorry, I have to disagree there Andrew. What makes gun engravers a pretty special bunch is the variety of surfaces they have to engrave. It's not all flat work like the scales of a knife; the convex surface of the detonation of a double gun or rifle can make for some pretty tricky engraving if you're only used to working on flat or slightly radiussed surfaces. I've seen guns engraved by some knife engravers and whilst the work is very good I've also seen some who have left the convex surfaces alone completely.

So, in my opinion your line should read, "If you can engrave a traditional side by side double gun or rifle, then you can engrave most things!" It's not rocket science, but takes time and patience and practice to learn to deal with concave and convex surfaces. Crack that and you're on your way to becoming a proper gun engraver and not just an engraver who engraves a few guns. Even experienced engravers can find something like a round-action tricky. But it's the ability to be able to produce whatever the client demands on a variety of surfaces that's important and that makes a gun engraver different from the rest.

I have to agree with Marcus. His comment reflects the reason that we decided that our organization would be a gun engraver's guild at the organizational meeting in 1980. It is also why we named it the Firearms Engravers Guild of America. I suppose that if we could have foreseen the potential for international membership we might have named it the Firearms Engravers Guild International, but that would have seemed presumptuous at the time.

davidshe said:

Thanks for that info Roger. I did a bit of searching for the used replica Colt Navy guns but was hoping you might point out a link to one or two that might be the right quality gun for engraving. I am getting to know watches but still don't know too much about guns. I see quite a few for 70 bucks on ebay but not sure those would cut well? Thank you!

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David,

There is really not the space here or time to give a tutorial about replica percussion revolvers. A book could be written (and has by Dennis Adler). In brief, you can save a great deal of time and effort by purchasing a second or third generation Colt percussion revolver. They are more expensive than some of the really cheap replicas but the fit and finish of one in excellent condition will save you hours of filing, sanding, and polishing. Also your work will be on an actual Colt which will make the finished product much more valuable. There are many models of second and third generation Colt black powder revolvers, and any of them would fine to work on. Most of these guns will have a color case hardened frame that will need to be annealed before engraving, the same as an SAA. Aside from that, all of the percussion revolvers that I have engraved (except stainless steel) have cut like butter.

Engraving on a round surfaces,gun barrels,fences on revolvers,double guns and round actions is all about control with the tool weather H&C or power assist.As you start cutting a line following the scribed line rise the hand very slowly that's holding the tool your goal is to get consist dept in the line,like Marcus said it's not rocket science just practice. J.J.

Roger Bleile said:

David,

There is really not the space here or time to give a tutorial about replica percussion revolvers. A book could be written (and has by Dennis Adler). In brief, you can save a great deal of time and effort by purchasing a second or third generation Colt percussion revolver. They are more expensive than some of the really cheap replicas but the fit and finish of one in excellent condition will save you hours of filing, sanding, and polishing. Also your work will be on an actual Colt which will make the finished product much more valuable. There are many models of second and third generation Colt black powder revolvers, and any of them would fine to work on. Most of these guns will have a color case hardened frame that will need to be annealed before engraving, the same as an SAA. Aside from that, all of the percussion revolvers that I have engraved (except stainless steel) have cut like butter.

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Thank you Roger.

The cutting technique is simple enough and just a matter of practice on complex curves which most of us do anyway.

One of the things I think makes gun engraving special is the design work………….a gun action is a huge area with many parts to fill. Action, side plates, trigger guard, tang, detonators, barrel, screw heads, thumb lever, bolt, etc etc.

The design can be also made up of several parts including scroll, scene, borders, frames, inlays etc etc. So the whole design needs to be coherent and flow from one part to the other and look balanced and in proportion……….it’s all these elements that make it pleasing to the eye and timeless.

Leaving aside client and budget constraints and talking pure theory. One thing that I often see is that beginners is they often start to realise just how big and complex a complete gun is so they try to compensate and speed up the process by filling areas with overly large scrolls and leaves. Or they start skimping on background technique to save time………….all of which adds up to a less than satisfactory job.

So then we come to the whole FEGA Masters thing which is what this thread is all about.

The actual techniques of cutting a gun is no different from anything else. It’s just bigger and a lot more area to cover……………So it’s a very challenging canvas. If you try to speed the design and cutting process up and take short cuts (like stippling backgrounds with a ball burr) it sticks out like dogs balls and looks crappy.

So my advise to anyone wanting to go for their FEGA Masters certification is this…………get a couple of guns. Any guns will do as Roger has rightly pointed out. Spend a lot of time and effort with the design and engraving and make it your best work. This takes time and effort. Don’t rush it, don’t take short cuts and if something is wrong then change it or fix it. If you are busy with life and it takes a year, two years or whatever, then so be it. This is all part and partial of being a Master engraver.

Just remember that other professional engravers are looking at and judging your work with a discerning eye. Not your clients, mother, wife, husband, partner and well meaning friends.

And if you don’t succeed the first time………then try again and keep upping your game till you do pass.

Cheers
Andrew

"Master" is used as a marketing term by some people in promoting their work. Many engravers are not even aware of the level of work being done by the some of the members of this group.