Newbie Hand Push Progress Thread

Just finished this one. Shading is a lot harder than it looks, and it already looks hard enough... I need to work on managing my direction of cut better to avoid some of the crossovers but all in all, I'm seeing progress and that's the point.

I too find narrower gravers easier, not surprising given the surface area. Having found a geometry that more or less works for me for the basics I'm occasionally experimenting. Lately I have been trying to get the feel of basic flicking the burr from short cuts. What I found was that lowering the face angle down to 40 degrees produced both a better plunging cut shape and a relatively consistent and easy flick removal of the burr. The steeper the face the worse both became although it felt like linear cuts were a bit better at steeper face angles. Both also seem to benefit for me from a single brief round/speitzer heel application (about 1 second or less for a full roll on the hone for less than 1/32 heel.
Jeremy

A 30 degree face on a long narrow taper seems to work for me. I've settled on a 115 degree graver as the easiest to control right now but who knows what I'll like tomorrow or next week. I'm about a month into this thing and probably should quit trying to run before I can even crawl but I can't seem to help myself... To paraphrase an old poem:

To
Engrave
is to engrave
is to engrave
is to engrave
is to engrave
is to engrave
is to en
grave
is
to
Engrave

Nice, inspiring. I am just getting into this myself.
Thanks for posting the pic.
Marc

Hi Marc! Thank you for the kind words, and welcome to the world of engraving!

I've been absent from posting to this thread for awhile, but I've been working hard. For the moment, I've been experimenting with graver geometries as I try my hand at cutting script.



Unfortunately, I do not have any adjustable mounts, and all I have are several of Steve Lindsay's templates. I found that the template that appeared to work the best for me was the 96 degree, but it was definitely not ideal for hand pushing.

After spending time watching Sam Alfano's videos (as well as several other engravers), I gathered that a more acute face angle was required. What I did after was to raise my diamond bench stone when using the template to grind the face.

This gets me a more acute angle, and it cuts much better! I will be grinding another one with an even more acute face angle shortly. Unfortunately, this means the heels need to be eyeballed, which can get iffy.

Several things I've experienced:
- I can't seem to sharpen carbide gravers as well as HSS. M42 gravers are in-between... Hmm.
- Doing the thumbnail test, I can tell how well the graver will cut. The newer ones with more acute faces grab onto my nails far more readily.
- I tried to grind a "square" graver with what tools I have. It cuts surprisingly well, but as it not have lift (am I using the right term), and is very bad for cutting tight corners.
- Forcing the graver in too deep results in ragged edges.
- Current graver geometry results in a smooth finish, previous cuts you could feel the raised finish.

That's me so far!

Guys,

Just read through this a bit and let me tell you, you guys are an inspiration. Seeing your work get better and better over the months and year is impressive. I am about to embark on the same journey you all took. With that said I wanted to put some feelers out for kinds of books you guys are reading or have read when you started? What was your course work so to speak???

I think I am set up on tools but if I missed anything let me know so far I have:
C-Max Graver bundle
Handles
Vise
sharpening stones
sharpening template

I know I need practice plates, where do you guys recommend I pick those up at???

Thanks,

I get brass & copper from riogrande.com, then cut it to 2" squares with a hacksaw.

gazzman151,I buy my copper & brass sheets and tubing from my hardware store they have a large display K&S Engineering,I cut to size. J.J.