Silentaire Super Silent 20a oil change.

Tim Young · Jul 13, 2016

I was changing the oil on my compressor today, and was using the method of tilting it up to drain through the filter tube in the back. After draining it I saw that there was a lot of sludge in the sight glass(I probably waited too long to change the oil). I removed the fitting containing the glass with a 1 1/16" deep well socket and realized I could drain the tank very easily in this manner. It will be my method of choice the next oil change. I hope this is not a redundant post and is a help to you all.

RDP · Jul 14, 2016

Thanks for the tip Tim, I don't have a Silentaire but recently I picked up a second hand similar to them, I will check it out, I can not find any one selling the oil for it yet here in Australia

.

Richard.

Sinterklaas · Jul 14, 2016

Great tip that. Hope I will remember it when the time comes to change the oil.

I just added some new oil a couple weeks ago. So I will check the manual when I need to do a complete renewal.

* EDIT:

Just checked the manual. Once a year the oil must be refreshed. Maybe with low usage you can go longer. I think the oil will not loose its properties when sitting idle. Under heat and pressure they might deteriorate.

bildio · Jul 14, 2016

Did the fitting have a seal that might need replacement?

I recently purchased a pump so I could change my car oil through the dip stick hole. I'll have to try the pump on my Silentaire 20 when it needs an oil change.

Tim Young · Jul 14, 2016

Hey Bill, it does have an o-ring attached to it. It was in great condition, so I re-installed it. The body of the sight glass appears to be aluminum, so there may be a risk of cross threading it into the steel body of the compressor.

Andrew Biggs · Jul 14, 2016

Good tip, thank you.

Now I wonder if that will work for the Jun~Air?......only one way to find out

Cheers
Andrew

delder · Jul 15, 2016

I use a small hand syphon.... works great

Ron Spokovich · Jul 15, 2016

Galvanic reaction can be a problem in certain, some of which I know from personal experience. If threading dissimilar items into one another, wipe perfectly clean with alcohol or acetone, and brush on a thin coat of NEVER-SEEZ (also marketed under different labels) with observance or recalculated torque values (wet & dry torque) if applicable. This might seem to be unnecessary, but snap a few items off and see why prudence never hurts. This is especially true of brake cylinder bleed screws which are notorious for rust. Just apply to threads only. I saved myself a lot of misery with the right prep.

Silentaire Super Silent 20a oil change.

Tim Young

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