spotty transfer under scope

Indy Joneds

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Morning all , when under the scope at near enough full zoom , my transfer shows dots for the background in an equal grid . I understand that the background Tha I've made dark is made dark by these dots and even the scroll as well, I have an old Kyocera 2000 and the best DPI I get on options is 1200 and I have vectorised the image. Do I have any other options than buying a new laser printer ? Anyone had same problem ?
 

SalihKara

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Morning all , when under the scope at near enough full zoom , my transfer shows dots for the background in an equal grid . I understand that the background Tha I've made dark is made dark by these dots and even the scroll as well, I have an old Kyocera 2000 and the best DPI I get on options is 1200 and I have vectorised the image. Do I have any other options than buying a new laser printer ? Anyone had same problem ?

Dear Indy,

Time to time I made laser transfer and I had the same result,
When I put it under scope I see the dots, if you want to see them as line I can suggest you not to zoom to much.

Best Regards
 

mitch

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transfers vary greatly in quality/clarity due to source material (scanned pencil drawings, vector files, clip art, halftones* vs. lines, etc.) and how perfectly they can be applied to the metal surface. my advice is stop wasting time searching for the holy grail of transfer perfection and learn to engrave thru the uncertainty. you would be amazed at how vague the layout drawings typically are for an experienced hand's lettering or scroll. you need to learn to wing it 'on the fly' as you're cutting and stop being so dependent on having an exact transfer to follow. it's engraving, not a connect-the-dots puzzle or paint-by-numbers.

*if you're seeing the individual dots of a halftone screen then you have nothing to complain about on the quality of your transfer. it's pretty much perfect.
 

monk

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1 agree with mitch. i have never been a "slave to the line", or dots in your case. invariably, i'll be engraving, and notice a bit of flat, a bump, or spot that just doesn't look right. i try to steer the graver where i think it should go, rather than where the actual line is. i do this by looking well ahead of the graver point. looking at the graver point, and not looking ahead, you'll likely engrave the bad spot right along with the good stuff.
 

dlilazteca

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Mitch and monk are spot on, as a beginner if the line was not there i couldn't donit, now as i do pulls off engraving that ive done and transfer, with my transfer wax, if you can call it that, it is faint very faint and this is under magnification, it will come with practice, tape a copy of the original off to the side as a reference, you can peak and see what needs to be done.

GunEngraver.com Guns, Knives & More
 

monk

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Mitch and monk are spot on, as a beginner if the line was not there i couldn't donit, now as i do pulls off engraving that ive done and transfer, with my transfer wax, if you can call it that, it is faint very faint and this is under magnification, it will come with practice, tape a copy of the original off to the side as a reference, you can peak and see what needs to be done.

GunEngraver.com Guns, Knives & More
yeah, i used to do this routinely. i would only draw/transfer the basic design on the part. i did the detailing on the fly. referencing the main drawing. i always had the notion that the work looked more spontaneous that way. i never saw any advantage in doing the entire layout on the part.
 

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