Help, please: Watch case problem

SalihKara · Jan 30, 2016

Hi.

A few days ago I engraved bottom of watch and I didn't have any problem with it but today I tried to engrave bot side of watch case but I had some serious problem.

I used the same graver that I use for shotgun frame and barrel, I dont have any cutting problem while I am engraving them

but I had serious cutting problem with watch case, my gravers don't move on it no matter how hard I try. they don't cut it.

For straight line I can cut very little but after that either my graver stuck or jam on surface. When I try to cut curved line I can not move even 1 mm.

What is the problem.

Is watch case too hard to engrave or is there anything else that I am missing.

I don't know how watch cases are made but are they being hardened like a knife?

I disassembled a new watch and tried to engrave it, at which phase a watch shoul be engraved?

Note: I just learnt that watch material is 316L Staibless Steel, I use carbid graver.

Best Regards

bram ramon · Jan 30, 2016

Welcome to the world of austenitic stainless man

Andrew Biggs · Jan 30, 2016

Is it 306L................or 316L ??

Watch backs are generally machined and do cut differently from the cases.

Cases tend to be cast and then machined. Basically there are a whole lot of variations to that depending on the manufacturer.

Even amongst the 316L stainless there is no consistency..........some are better to cut than others. They do however have one common denominator and that is they are all miserable to cut.

What I suggest that you do is keep trying, but alter your technique. Try slowing down, relaxing and locking your wrist when cutting.

316L is an acquired taste and takes a lot of getting used to. It is nothing like gun metal to engrave and you will be sharpening a lot.

Cheers
Andrew

monk · Jan 30, 2016

finding, as well as using a good lube may help a bit. dubbing the graver tip seems to be in order for nasty metal. kerosene, 3 in one oil, oil of wintergreen, and mineral oil are a few lubes worth trying. it would be nice if you could get some scrap of that exact alloy to do some testing on. good luck.

SalihKara · Jan 31, 2016

Andrew Biggs said:
Is it 306L................or 316L ??

Watch backs are generally machined and do cut differently from the cases.

Cases tend to be cast and then machined. Basically there are a whole lot of variations to that depending on the manufacturer.

Even amongst the 316L stainless there is no consistency..........some are better to cut than others. They do however have one common denominator and that is they are all miserable to cut.

What I suggest that you do is keep trying, but alter your technique. Try slowing down, relaxing and locking your wrist when cutting.

316L is an acquired taste and takes a lot of getting used to. It is nothing like gun metal to engrave and you will be sharpening a lot.

Cheers
Andrew

Thanks for your response Andrew.

Yes you are right it is 316L. sorry for my mistake.

it seems that I will need a lot of watch case to practise.

SalihKara · Jan 31, 2016

Thanks Monk,

I will try it.

Jan Hendrik · Jan 31, 2016

I routinely cut knife bolsters made from 316 stainless steel. You need to dub the point of the engraver to avoid sharpening every two minutes.

SalihKara · Jan 31, 2016

Jan Hendrik said:
I routinely cut knife bolsters made from 316 stainless steel. You need to dub the point of the engraver to avoid sharpening every two minutes.

Jan, sorry for my english but could you please give me more information about dub? What is it and how is it made?

Gemsetterchris · Jan 31, 2016

Maybe It has been plated?

Boomhower · Jan 31, 2016

SalihKara said:
Jan, sorry for my english but could you please give me more information about dub? What is it and how is it made?

"Dubbing the point". Is sightly dulling the point it helps on hard metals from chips and dulling fast
You do it after normal sharping that just drag the point over like 1000 grit or so. I will try and fined a wright up on it for you to better explain

Boomhower · Jan 31, 2016

I couldn't fined a wright up just on it but there is alot of different ways they explain it if you go to advanced site search and type point dubbing

SamW · Jan 31, 2016

There are two ways to dub the point that I use. One is to hold the tool vertical and pass the point very lightly across a fine stone, giving a very minute almost vertical face at the point.

My favorite is to hold the tool with the heel parallel to the stone and gently move it sideways across the stone while rotating from one side to the other. This gives a very small round shape to the heel instead of the sharp V shape.

SalihKara · Jan 31, 2016

Boomhower said:
"Dubbing the point". Is sightly dulling the point it helps on hard metals from chips and dulling fast
You do it after normal sharping that just drag the point over like 1000 grit or so. I will try and fined a wright up on it for you to better explain

Thanks for explanation

SalihKara · Jan 31, 2016

SamW said:
There are two ways to dub the point that I use. One is to hold the tool vertical and pass the point very lightly across a fine stone, giving a very minute almost vertical face at the point.

My favorite is to hold the tool with the heel parallel to the stone and gently move it sideways across the stone while rotating from one side to the other. This gives a very small round shape to the heel instead of the sharp V shape.

SamW, it is a great explanation. I perfectly understand it.

Thanks.

dlilazteca · Jan 31, 2016

bram ramon said:
Welcome to the world of austenitic stainless man

Coming from a person with so much experience, i dont see why you would not offer any help or advise.

-----------------------------------------------------

Is your tip breaking? I can only assume it is, besides dubbing, try increasing your face angle, and only sharpen to 600 grit, dont go higher than that.

Brian Marshall · Jan 31, 2016

He did. You didn't take it.

B.

Brian Marshall · Jan 31, 2016

Stay the hell away from oil of wintergreen. It is NOT a lubricant. Look up the MSDS on it.

Spit or snot will work better.

This information was given me by a student whose occupation was as a scientist studying and developing new lubricants for one of the big oil companies.

He would bust up laughing every time the stuff was mentioned...

Brian

Dave London · Jan 31, 2016

Thanks Bram
I started to work on a commercial Mauser action this morning and it hard as hell in spots. I made some test cuts on the bottom no problem. Lots of sharpening to come :no:

SamW · Jan 31, 2016

I second Bram's comment...any movement or vibration of the item is surely to lead to frequent tip loss!

Andrew Biggs · Feb 1, 2016

Bram......how do you hold your cases when engraving??

To cut the sides I use a wooden block (where the strap lugs are) to pack it out in the vise and a leather pad to prevent scratching.

For the lugs and top I use thermolock melted on the end of a wooden dowel so I can manipulate the cutting position by tilting the vise.

Watches are tricky things to hold in the vise so I'm always keen to learn a different or better way

Cheers
Andrew

Help, please: Watch case problem

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