Patch box

DAK4442

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I spent a couple hours chucking two feet of snow out of my driveway this morning here on the east coast then decided to pass the time with a little engraving before I go out for round two...this is a project if been procrastinating on for a while...
 

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monk

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a really grand look to that. the shading just makes this stand out.
 

DAK4442

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Thank you both very much. The most difficult part of this project (since my engraving is a hobby) is that the only place I could mount the rifle to work on it is in a stationary wood vise in my workshop. Not only does my right hand and graver have to do the rotating (instead of the work) but I've had to do about a third of the cuts with my left hand which was a bit scary...
 

mtgraver

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Remove the patchbox from the stock and screw down or glue on to a block of wood of comparable shape. It will make your life a lot easier, hehe. Nice job on the finial. Do you attend the 18th C> Artisan Show in Lewisburg, Pa.?
Mark
 

DakotaDocMartin

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I've been procrastinating doing mine too! I think I'll have to do it the same way being that I'm not going to remove the patchbox from the stock. It's perfectly inlet and I don't think there's any way in "heck" it could come out and back in again without buggering it up. I've seen videos of both Hershel House and Wallace Gusler hand engraving guns and doing the patchbox in situ so, I plan on doing it the same way... when I get a Round Tuit. :)

Round-tuit.jpg
 

Omar Haltam

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very nice job, I like the way you used the three screws to start the design. Very well done
good job


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Omar Haltam

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not that I am an expert
just picking up great info on this great Forum, thanks everyone for helping us new guys out....


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atexascowboy2011

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I agree with md.
Cut your silver, engrave, THEN scribe your stock and inlay.
If doing a wedge fit, I'd think about leaving the border unadorned to be finished after inlaying.

Next One ?
OVER THE TOP !
 

D Smith

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Nicely done.

I have a couple suggestions next time you do an inlay. Before you do any engraving, use a damp paper towel and a steam iron and use it to steam around the patch box or any inlay. It will close all the gaps between the wood and metal. Put the damp paper towel on the stock and gently iron away, you might need to re moisten your towel a couple times till the wood quits moving. It will raise the grain and the wood, just let it dry and sand back. You will be surprised at how big of a gap will close up.

Best thing I have found to hold those oddly shaped inlays is automotive body putty. A layer of putty thick enough to hold the curved metal on a piece of hard wood. That then allows you to put it in your vice. To remove the patch box or any other inlay, is to use a propane torch and a small amount of heat to the metal release's it quickly with no harm. Then heat the remaining putty on the board and scrape it off to reply more putty and put the next part on, let it set and start engraving.

I also use body putty to make a clamping block on those swamped barrels when removing those stubborn breach plugs. Use two 1x2x6" long pieces of wood. Wax the barrel first for easy removal. Put a layer of putty thick enough to press the barrel level in the first block. Let it set up, then sprinkle baby powder on the barrel and block, the powder is used as a release. Coat the other block of wood with puttty and press down on the first block that is now holding the barrel and let set. You now have a perfect block to put in your bench vice, with the barrel sandwiched between two blocks of straight wood. Dont forget the baby powder before you put on the top block, the two haves will separate and no damage to your barrel. Save the blocks for anytime you want to clamp the barrel in your vice for like cutting the sight dovetails, or engraving.

You may already know this. Just making some suggestions.

D
 

DAK4442

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Mark, I had thought about removing it but was scared that any change in moisture would make it a bugger to get back in? It would make it way easier though. Also I didn't know about Lewisburg, when is it? My son happens to be Pastor at Watsontown United Methodist about 10 minutes away and I could make it a double visit??

Doc, I need one of those buttons! I've been doing a 500 mile round trip to my daughters to help them with some issues Mon-Friday every week for the last 7weeks and there won't be a let up til April or so. My only full day at home is Saturday so basically everything has to wait til I can get "tuit".

D, thanks for the pointers. The only thing I am sure of is that I don't actually know a whole lot of anything and every tip or trick helps...

Thanks Dan
 

thughes

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Hey Dan, man that looks just right.

You've probably already seen this, but The way I was shown when taking a class was to hold he barrel end in the vise and stick the stock straight out into the room. The stock sits on a rest on a pedestal and you can essentially walk all the way around. My rest is copied from my instructor and it's just a five gallon bucket filled with sackrete with a post in the middle, and rubber padding on the bottom.


Todd
 

DAK4442

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Todd, haven't seen that and I like the idea? Maybe a sandbag to add mass and reduce vibration...thanks...
 

DakotaDocMartin

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I agree with md.
Cut your silver, engrave, THEN scribe your stock and inlay.
If doing a wedge fit, I'd think about leaving the border unadorned to be finished after inlaying.

Next One ?
OVER THE TOP !

The only way to get a perfectly inlaid patchbox (or any gun parts for that matter) requires inletting and filing the metal and the wood together. The screws get filed at the same time if a person really wants a nice look. That process will obliterate the engraving. Hence, the reason why most muzzle loading rifle builders will stand and engrave with the body English method.
 

DAK4442

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Mark, man would I love to make that show. I looked through the old photos and I know I'd love it...but alas my current commitment helping out my daughters family won't let me be there. Hope you have a safe trip...Dan
 

DAK4442

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About 75% complete but all the time I have for this week...
 

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DKanger

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I had thought about removing it but was scared that any change in moisture would make it a bugger to get back in?
If that's the case, then what will you do when you have to stain it and apply the finish.
 

DAK4442

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In the past I've used Aqua Fortis with heat to color, then linseed oil followed by several coats of ting oil. With a nice 0000 rubdown in between coats. I do that with all the furniture in place...
 

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