Question: Attempting to make a scuplting punch

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Choppers_rule

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After watching Sam's DVD on sculpting, I attempted to make my own punch using a HSS square graver that I rounded and tap it on 260 grit lap. However, it also removed the metal instead of just moving it when I tried and the ridges looked pretty rough and too sharp.

My dumb question: To radius the face of the punch, does it mean to round off the edges of the point? or to make a 'dome' face?

I was attempting to sculpt on an alloy using Lindsay Nitro G20. Thank you. Denny
 
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Brian Marshall

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Denny,

Yes, you can kinda make punches and matting tools from HSS... and yes, for what you are trying to do - you need rounded eges and a slight dome.

BUT, you can make far, far better tools to fit in your handpiece - out of water or oil hardening carbon steel.

Go get, or order yourself some 1/8" rod of either variety. I'd recommend starting with the water hardening for simplicity.

It comes in 36" lengths for a buck or two. Not only can you save yourself a lot of money, but you can make all kinds of "trick" tools from this material.

MSC, McMaster, J & L and probably even Grainger would carry it. Look under drill rod.

When you get some, let me know and the fun will begin. You will need a torch of some kind. One of those little propane cylinder torches will work to start with.

Meantime, keep playing with what you have. Eventually you will get it to work and you can use that knowledge later.


Brian
 
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Choppers_rule

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Got it. Rounded edges & a slight dome. Thank you Brian!!
Will the 1/8" rod fit in the Lindsay tool? Seem kinda big? I do have an acetylene torch in the garage but haven't gotten a chance to play around with it yet.

BTW....I still need to practice all the fancy bright cuts that you showed me last year, I couldn't find the time yet since I visited you. Been busy engraving motorcycle parts. Hopefully, I don't forget:(
 
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Brian Marshall

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Yes, Denny, 1/8" round rod fits the Lindsay handpieces and the GRS collets. So far...

Both are constantly trying to come up with ways to prevent you from using their tools interchangeably - and Steve really has no templates for round stock - at this point. But there are ways to get around these games....

Oxy acetylene will work, kinda more'n you need, but as soon as you learn to control the flame - it will work. Hopefully, there is a youtube video out there on O/A flame control? It's easily shown in person, not so easy to describe.


Brian


While you are at it, I would suggest buying some 1/4" SQUARE water hardening stock too. Also comes in 36" lengths. You'll see why when you tell me you have it in your hands...
 
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C

Choppers_rule

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Brian Marshall said:
Yes, Denny, 1/8" round rod fits the Lindsay handpieces and the GRS collets. So far...

Both are constantly trying to come up with ways to prevent you from using their tools interchangeably - and Steve really has no templates for round stock - at this point. But there are ways to get around these games....

Oxy acetylene will work, kinda more'n you need, but as soon as you learn to control the flame - it will work. Hopefully, there is a youtube video out there on O/A flame control? It's easily shown in person, not so easy to describe.


While you are at it, I would suggest buying some 1/4" SQUARE water hardening stock too. Also comes in 36" lengths. You'll see why when you tell me you have it in your hands...
Click to expand...
Got it Brian,
1/8" rod in 36" length & 1/4" square water hardening stock in 36" length. I also have the little propane torch in the garage. Thank you for guiding me through this, much appreciate it.
 
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Choppers_rule

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sam said:
Here's an old thread on the subject.

Sculpting punches
Click to expand...

Thank you Sam! I did read it before I post my thread. I'm going to re-shape the punch tonight when I get home from work with rounded edges and a bit dome face. For a medium size leaves, I found the 0.75mm point is a bit too small? or I probably just don't know how to use it/ shape it properly.
 
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Choppers_rule

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If my punch is removing metal instead of moving it, it means I need to radius/ round off the edges more, correct?
 
Sam

Sam

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Choppers_rule said:
If my punch is removing metal instead of moving it, it means I need to radius/ round off the edges more, correct?
Click to expand...

This is really hard to troubleshoot without seeing the punch, seeing you work with the punch, and seeing the results of your efforts.

My punch is nearly flat but has a very slight radius. So slight that it looks flat when you first see it.

The rate of pull when using the punch is critical to moving the metal properly and that's what gives most beginners fits when trying to sculpt. You might review my video on that. If you continue to punch the same area without pulling the punch the metal will begin to flake and punched area becomes burnished. I keep my strokes per minute at 1400 or less. If it's too fast I can't get the results I'm looking for.

While there's nothing wrong with making your own punches from drill rod (I've made a ton of them), for this work a old HSS graver, discarded bur, or old beading tool will work perfectly and there's no need to harden, quench, etc.

I hope that helps.
 
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Choppers_rule

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sam said:
This is really hard to troubleshoot without seeing the punch, seeing you work with the punch, and seeing the results of your efforts.

My punch is nearly flat but has a very slight radius. So slight that it looks flat when you first see it.

The rate of pull when using the punch is critical to moving the metal properly and that's what gives most beginners fits when trying to sculpt. You might review my video on that. If you continue to punch the same area without pulling the punch the metal will begin to flake and punched area becomes burnished. I keep my strokes per minute at 1400 or less. If it's too fast I can't get the results I'm looking for.

While there's nothing wrong with making your own punches from drill rod (I've made a ton of them), for this work a old HSS graver, discarded bur, or old beading tool will work perfectly and there's no need to harden, quench, etc.

I hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much Sam for taking the time to reply! Although I watched the video a few times, I did not realize that I was PUSHING instead of PULLING the punch. No wonder I was removing metal, I'M SUCH AN IDIOT lol

You are so right about the rate of pull and the strokes/ minute. I still have not found the sweet combination yet. You made it looks so easy on the video:) I'm not exactly sure the numbers of strokes/ minutes as I'm using a Lindsay tool. I use the Nitro instead of the Classic and crank up to 90psi and easy on the pedal to lower the strokes speed.

However, I did not get the same results as shown on the video. I will take pic of the punch and my practice plate this weekend. Thank you again for this valuable info. Hope everybody had a great Thanksgiving! Denny
 
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