Question: Using lube on diamond discs
- Thread starter gantzi
- Start date
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Originally "stolen" from the lapidary trade, the diamond discs were designed to be used with a water drip to flush the stone grindings, powder and fine residues.
Check this thread - http://www.engraverscafe.com/showthread.php?19799-The-origins-of-our-modern-day-sharpening-apparatus...
Hand engravers generally use them dry, though some use "lubricants" or wetting agents to keep the dust down.
I've seen and heard of everything from Windex to WD40 being used. (Neither of which I would recommend or allow to be used for that purpose in my shops)
Brian
By the way, the dust produced by grinding the carbide alloys is carcinogenic and should be controlled. There should have been warning labels for the past 20+ years or so. There are none.
Granted, when you buy a graver blank - dust is not a problem and that's one way to "get around it".
But when you sell a product knowing that it will be ground to dust, and that dust could be problematic - I believe that the customer should be informed...
Check this thread - http://www.engraverscafe.com/showthread.php?19799-The-origins-of-our-modern-day-sharpening-apparatus...
Hand engravers generally use them dry, though some use "lubricants" or wetting agents to keep the dust down.
I've seen and heard of everything from Windex to WD40 being used. (Neither of which I would recommend or allow to be used for that purpose in my shops)
Brian
By the way, the dust produced by grinding the carbide alloys is carcinogenic and should be controlled. There should have been warning labels for the past 20+ years or so. There are none.
Granted, when you buy a graver blank - dust is not a problem and that's one way to "get around it".
But when you sell a product knowing that it will be ground to dust, and that dust could be problematic - I believe that the customer should be informed...
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Kevin Scott
Elite Cafe Member
I have used water, Windex, mineral oil. All about the same. Now using Murphy's oil soap in a spray bottle. I like it better, but don't know if it is really better. It does spray around much less than Windex or water.
I do believe it is important to control the dust.
Curious why Brian does not allow Windex or WD40 to be used for that purpose in his shop. What do you use or recommend?
I do believe it is important to control the dust.
Curious why Brian does not allow Windex or WD40 to be used for that purpose in his shop. What do you use or recommend?
DakotaDocMartin
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
I like the mineral oil as it traps the dust and also lubricates and helps to prevent clogging the diamond on the disc. Just wipe off the lap with a paper towel as it's running slowly every now and then. Just a few drops at a time is all you need. I was a lapidary for many more years. I use Crystalite® Crystalcut™ mixed with water on diamond laps when using them for rock.
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Kevin,
I use 'em dry unless I am roughing, in which case I use a water drip in a lapidary setup. More for it's cooling properties, than lubrication or flushing... I use an ultrasonic & steamer to clean laps with.
Windex costs more than water, doesn't do anything water wouldn't and ammonia is not something that I voluntarily use for much - outside of cleaning purposes...
I've seen older used hones where the Windex began fading or removing the paint over time. Probably from the ammonia?
WD40 is "Water Displacement formula #40". I've posted about it and oil of wintergreen (poisonous) at least a half a dozen times.
The stuff gets sticky and builds up over time. Turns to varnish. Freezes up tiny bearings...
It's been flogged as a "lubricant" for so long that people have forgotten what it was designed to do.
Another example of modern day merchandising...
As you get older, you find there is no reason to unnecessarily expose yourself to more chemicals.
You can drink the water without any consequences. (before using it!)
You won't do so well if you drink the WD40 or the Windex... or the Murphy's Soap for that matter...
Doc's mineral oil would probably be safe enough, but too much cleanup for me. Students would splatter the stuff all over. And again, water is cheaper.
B.
I use 'em dry unless I am roughing, in which case I use a water drip in a lapidary setup. More for it's cooling properties, than lubrication or flushing... I use an ultrasonic & steamer to clean laps with.
Windex costs more than water, doesn't do anything water wouldn't and ammonia is not something that I voluntarily use for much - outside of cleaning purposes...
I've seen older used hones where the Windex began fading or removing the paint over time. Probably from the ammonia?
WD40 is "Water Displacement formula #40". I've posted about it and oil of wintergreen (poisonous) at least a half a dozen times.
The stuff gets sticky and builds up over time. Turns to varnish. Freezes up tiny bearings...
It's been flogged as a "lubricant" for so long that people have forgotten what it was designed to do.
Another example of modern day merchandising...
As you get older, you find there is no reason to unnecessarily expose yourself to more chemicals.
You can drink the water without any consequences. (before using it!)
You won't do so well if you drink the WD40 or the Windex... or the Murphy's Soap for that matter...
Doc's mineral oil would probably be safe enough, but too much cleanup for me. Students would splatter the stuff all over. And again, water is cheaper.
B.
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Kevin Scott
Elite Cafe Member
Thanks Brian for your explanation. I do not know what is actually in Murphy's oil soap, but assume it is less harmful than WD40. I would guess it is about the same harmful wise as mineral oil, but way cheaper. And does not get as much airborne as water or windex.
But I am no expert on this.
But I am no expert on this.
zzcutter
Elite Cafe Member
I have used Hoppes #9 oil for years. When it starts to get clogged up on the disc I just wash the disc with dish washing liquid and replenish with some new oil. ZZ
gcleaker
Elite Cafe Member
dish soap
great question, as a faceter i have been using these type of disks for some time now, i have found that water and a small amount of dish soap "one drop to a coffee can" is the cleanest and safest coolant to use. it cleans up great, washes away fines and suppress dust. how ever when finished please wipe your disks dry, or at least spin dry then. all diamond laps will rust if you neglect them. and at $130.00 to $250.bucks a pop that can hurt the old wallet. there are topper laps at $15.00 to $30.00 each, you need to use a master lap $25 to $ 30.00. a great resource is www.saleskingsleynorth.com
i have used this company many times in the past.
great question, as a faceter i have been using these type of disks for some time now, i have found that water and a small amount of dish soap "one drop to a coffee can" is the cleanest and safest coolant to use. it cleans up great, washes away fines and suppress dust. how ever when finished please wipe your disks dry, or at least spin dry then. all diamond laps will rust if you neglect them. and at $130.00 to $250.bucks a pop that can hurt the old wallet. there are topper laps at $15.00 to $30.00 each, you need to use a master lap $25 to $ 30.00. a great resource is www.saleskingsleynorth.com
i have used this company many times in the past.
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
No one is an "expert" Kevin. In fact, I am uncomfortable with the term. We all do whatever works or "feels right"... even if it's superstition.
Here of late, I see more reason to simplify my life and question some of the things I have done and taken for granted for a long, long time...
I never assume that "my way" is the only way. Like they say "your mileage may vary". I think it's more accurate to say that it will always vary!
Brian
I agree with everything in gcleaker's post above. I do the same things.
DO dry the lap afterwards! (Best to wipe it, otherwise you may come back in the morning and find you left it to "spin dry" all night!)
Here of late, I see more reason to simplify my life and question some of the things I have done and taken for granted for a long, long time...
I never assume that "my way" is the only way. Like they say "your mileage may vary". I think it's more accurate to say that it will always vary!
Brian
I agree with everything in gcleaker's post above. I do the same things.
DO dry the lap afterwards! (Best to wipe it, otherwise you may come back in the morning and find you left it to "spin dry" all night!)
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my choice has evolved to common mineral oil, of the drugstore variety. the mess doesn't occur if the disk goes slow enough. i believe a disk will last much longer if lubed. gobbledegunk aside, it even sounds better when using a lube !
the mineral oil way makes drying unnecessary. when the disk needs cleaned, a toothbrush and naphtha or isopropyl does the trick. i have cleaned with wd-40, but it creates more of a mess than the other 2.
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