anybody out there ?

monk

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any of you ever made modifications to the operating or shift levers to the centering vise ? i want to modify mine to make it easier to shift the vise without looking away from the scope. fotos or info on such will guarantee admission to heaven or the other place.:(
 

mitch

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i'll try to remember to take a pic of mine. it's the original GRS prototype of the eccentric centering concept that never made it into production. mine might be the only one in existence. the lever is a paddle along the right side of the vise that i only need firmly rest the side of my right hand on to release for repositioning. it is far superior than any others i've ever played with.
 

monk

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i'll try to remember to take a pic of mine. it's the original GRS prototype of the eccentric centering concept that never made it into production. mine might be the only one in existence. the lever is a paddle along the right side of the vise that i only need firmly rest the side of my right hand on to release for repositioning. it is far superior than any others i've ever played with.
looking forward to seeing it mitch. if you can find it, much appreciated.
 

James Ashley

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I read a post from way back when on the positioning vice where Barry Lee Hands mentioned he removes something with a cold chisel which gives more movement in the slide. Tried to PM him see if he had any pics but he cant accept them as his inbox is full :( I would also be interested in making it easier to move if its possible!
 

mitch

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here ya go. as you can see, it's also got a tripod base, so it never tilts out of alignment with the scope axis.

if somebody is interested in making a production run, i'd be very cooperative in terms of providing working drawings, suggested improvements (i've been using it for 30+ yrs), etc., in return for another vise. this really is a vastly superior design- i'm not sure why it didn't become their production model.
 

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Brian Marshall

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Mitch, that setup might work well for me? Definitely looks interesting...

I have not been able to use the tilting feature on an ordinary ball vise for 14 years.

This is due to the fact that my engraving arm is now in a sling suspended from the ceiling. That sling restricts my "angle of attack".


And then there are the limitations of working under the scope...


Up until recently, the best solution for me had been a standard positioning vise, because I definitely need the rotation and position shifting for engraving letters.

It's been set up NOT to tilt by reversing the rubber base.


I've begun two experiments:

1. Altering the sling to allow for more range of motion and a longer time in the sling - without cutting off the blood supply to my arm and requiring a break every 20 minutes to "recuperate".

2. Using the Lindsay low profile with one of the potters wheel turntables. This gives me back some small amount of tilt, because with that wide radius you don't lose focus as much under the scope - and I am finally getting used to pushing the vise around instead of using the levers to reposition.


I will watch to see where this goes... if someone makes it, and what improvements or options might be made/offered if someone does make 'em.



Brian
 
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Dave London

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James
I believe Barry removed the yoke that the threaded screw between the jaws rides in
Look right in the middle of the vise. YMMV
 

Brian Marshall

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Monk,

I reread your post... and now I am wondering why you need to look away from the scope while shifting?

I do all of my shifting while I'm watching where I shift through the lenses.

Always have. Never occurred to me to back away from the eyepieces.


I guess by now I just know where the right and left side of the work piece is in relation to where the levers are?

Been automatic for so many years that I am gonna have to go and cut something while noticing what I actually DO!


Brian
 
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monk

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Monk,

I reread your post... and now I am wondering why you need to look away from the scope while shifting?

I do all of my shifting while I'm watching where I shift through the lenses.

Always have. Never occurred to me to back away from the eyepieces.


I guess by now I just know where the right and left side of the work piece is in relation to where the levers are?

Been automatic for so many years that I am gonna have to go and cut something while noticing what I actually DO!

brian: i usually am aware of the lever positions. now & then, i guess i get disoriented, and have to fumble around to find one or the other. maybe there's a lesson for me there-- that of orienting the work relative to the levers. may be time for this ole dog to take on new tricks.
 

monk

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here ya go. as you can see, it's also got a tripod base, so it never tilts out of alignment with the scope axis.

if somebody is interested in making a production run, i'd be very cooperative in terms of providing working drawings, suggested improvements (i've been using it for 30+ yrs), etc., in return for another vise. this really is a vastly superior design- i'm not sure why it didn't become their production model.

tyvm for that mitch. strange in my mind why such an idea failed to get out of the gate. my situation now-- kinda bleak.i no longer have access to a real machine shop and all the goodies therein. the little machining i get now is hit or miss. mostly miss. i do appreciate your reply to my request.
 

monk

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I read a post from way back when on the positioning vice where Barry Lee Hands mentioned he removes something with a cold chisel which gives more movement in the slide. Tried to PM him see if he had any pics but he cant accept them as his inbox is full :( I would also be interested in making it easier to move if its possible!

jim: grs will send drawings via download. they're good in detail. to make yours "easier" to move, you have to take the vise apart. there are 2 tension springs. the pair have to be replaced with 2 of lesser tension. in doing this, less tension is needed to work the levers. there's a tradeoff-- if a heavy , off center part is in the vise, it may shift on its'own if the vise is tilted too far. a real bugger when this happens !. the spring i show is the type needed. any good hardware outlet will have these in a variety of tension levels. you'd simply have to get a matched pair and give them a try.
 

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