Help, please: Hand push graver
- Thread starter brett
- Start date
Roger B
Elite Cafe Member
It sounds as though you are looking for one graver to cover all circumstances - it is not going to happen.
Check previous posts for examples of geometries for hand pushing already provided by members - but only consider these as a starting point - you might want to develop your own angles to do what you want to do.
Roger
Check previous posts for examples of geometries for hand pushing already provided by members - but only consider these as a starting point - you might want to develop your own angles to do what you want to do.
Roger
Check the Tips Archive. I did a video on hand pushing.
no attempt at being rude---- all this info you seek has been answered many times over. it's all here, waiting to be read. if you don't do a bit of homework, well- you're in for a long, hard struggle. it's rather simple-- take a looseleaf binder and start taking notes. sharpening, graver geometries, transfer techniques, design principles, material prep., and many other categories are to be considered. keep all your notes organized for easy reference.
you'll soon find a simple question will get several different answers (ways of doing things) that may seem in conflict. that's because we all go at this stuff in different ways to achieve a similar result. only you can wade thru all the info to determine what's best for you.
you'll soon find a simple question will get several different answers (ways of doing things) that may seem in conflict. that's because we all go at this stuff in different ways to achieve a similar result. only you can wade thru all the info to determine what's best for you.
Kevin Scott
Elite Cafe Member
Brett, To learn hand pushing it might be best to start out with an older book, before air assist became popular. The old books cover geometry pretty well with pictures and drawings. The Art of Engraving by Meeks, written in the 1970's? is very good. Available new and used. Used I think is under $50. Money well spent. Also another book with the same name written about 100 years ago and is reprinted in paperback by Lindsay Publications. Mostly about lettering, which is a good place to start. Easily available for under $25.
The trouble with searching the forum for some answers is you read conflicting advice, have to wade through some things that are not relevant, etc.
Try one of the geometries that is recommended for push power. Spend at least 2 hours with it. Make notes of your experience. What the graver geometry can do and not do. If you think it does not work for you, start another practice plate with another geometry. Mark and date practice plates, so you can review your notes when you did that plate, and what geometry you used.
Eventually you will have an idea what works for you and what doesn't. But you still need different geometries for different situations. But they will most likely be slight modifications of your preferred geometry.
Another think not talked about is how long the graver should be for push power. The books show it, and it is partly based on hand size. My total length is usually 4 to 4 1/2 '' long, total length with handle. My hands are on the small side. But I used to use a length about a 1/2'' shorter. Probably easier to start out on the short side. Again take notes about your experiences with different lengths.
The trouble with searching the forum for some answers is you read conflicting advice, have to wade through some things that are not relevant, etc.
Try one of the geometries that is recommended for push power. Spend at least 2 hours with it. Make notes of your experience. What the graver geometry can do and not do. If you think it does not work for you, start another practice plate with another geometry. Mark and date practice plates, so you can review your notes when you did that plate, and what geometry you used.
Eventually you will have an idea what works for you and what doesn't. But you still need different geometries for different situations. But they will most likely be slight modifications of your preferred geometry.
Another think not talked about is how long the graver should be for push power. The books show it, and it is partly based on hand size. My total length is usually 4 to 4 1/2 '' long, total length with handle. My hands are on the small side. But I used to use a length about a 1/2'' shorter. Probably easier to start out on the short side. Again take notes about your experiences with different lengths.
Martin Strolz
Elite Cafe Member
1. First start drawing
2. Then grind yourselfs a tool and start engraving http://www.engraverscafe.com/showthread.php?2116-Square-Graver-Geometry
3. Evaluated your modest success and go back to #1, repeat.
2. Then grind yourselfs a tool and start engraving http://www.engraverscafe.com/showthread.php?2116-Square-Graver-Geometry
3. Evaluated your modest success and go back to #1, repeat.
Thanks Martin!
Yes, everything you want you will find in the Tips Archive, but you'll have to do some reading to find it. Martin also has a great post on graver geometry. The Tips Archive is a vast resource.
Yes, everything you want you will find in the Tips Archive, but you'll have to do some reading to find it. Martin also has a great post on graver geometry. The Tips Archive is a vast resource.
brett: i failed address your idea of "making a graver". if you meant making one from "scratch" out of a drill bit or other hardened piece of steel-- ugh ! this can be done, but isn't too practical. try to get a "store bought" graver of high speed steel. one that's 90 and a flat. doing such will take away quite a bit of uncertainty. the has gravers are easily sharpened on most any stone or wheel. diamond tooling isn't needed for has.
I like Martins hand push graver geometry for fine detail when it comes to engraving animals & birds and take his advice on drawing it will payoff.
J.J.
J.J.
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