Hi there -- introduction and request for suggestions

I've just arrived here. As my username would indicate, I am just getting into engraving, and doing so with a New Hermes "Super" ITX-L that I just got home with about two hours ago.

My initial reason for getting this is to engrave lettering on "80%" lower receivers for Poodle Shooters -- uh, AR-15s -- and ran across a decent deal on this machine with a few accessories.

I haven't had a chance to look much at what I got, but it apparently has not only the motor-driven system, but also a drag.

So, my first question is whether the drag is suitable for engraving lettering into 7075-T6 aluminum forging, or do I want to put the motor spindle back on? And will this work for both anodized and non-anodized material?

Second, if I want to do artwork, I think that just "tracing" over line art will work, rather than having an actual grooved template. Am I correct?

Third, how do you do stippling on things like floorplates?

Fourth, what is the minimum depth of engraving which will be clearly visible?

Fifth (and perhaps most important), does anyone know where I can get a user manual as a pdf or text file?

Thanks!

To answer some of your inquiries, in part, it's good you got both means of 'cutting'. The problem is not forged aluminum, but the anodizing on it. Material is aluminum oxide, which is what grindstones are made out of. You may get fuzzy edges, or chipping. Probably best to get some scrap stuff, and run a few test cuts, or drags, which would tell you more. Tracing on a line, you'd need a bomb disposal touch, and your paper would rip. One slip, and it's over. Better off to make your own templates, that a 'finger' could follow in the groove. Stippling had been commented on within the Forum, so do a search to see what's what on that. As to depths, again, go for some scrap pieces to see what looks best. . .you won't need much to see something. User manuals might be available, on-line, and other Forum users would know more about that than I. Good luck in your endeavors.

Thanks, Ron!

From what you're saying, I guess there's no quick and dirty rule on depth, and I should avoid anodized material. The 80% lowers come both ways. And if I will be anodizing myself, I need to make the depth enough that I can inlay with paint.

Should I try the drag, or just put on the spinner? If the drag won't work, I'd just as soon not try to force it.

Roger that on making a template, which was what I was trying to say earlier (I don't have to make a template FROM a template).

Tomorrow, if the "global warming" cooperates (it snowed in Nevada today) I'll get out there and see what I've got.

Not sure how many people here have a lot of machine engraving experience. Ask about hand engraving and everyone will chime in. I do my AR15 work with a laser.

call me after 9 pm est. i can give you all the info you need ( well most of it !). 724-470-7214 i have done such on a pantograph.

Newbie Hermes said:

My initial reason for getting this is to engrave lettering on "80%" lower receivers for Poodle Shooters -- uh, AR-15s

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You may already know this... make darned sure you are only engraving the 80% lowers. Once they are milled and drilled they become a "firearm". At that point, the ATF figures you are involved in "manufacturing" which requires a license. Just a heads up.

DakotaDocMartin said:

You may already know this... make darned sure you are only engraving the 80% lowers. Once they are milled and drilled they become a "firearm". At that point, the ATF figures you are involved in "manufacturing" which requires a license. Just a heads up.

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doc: you.re quite correct. when i do these, they are just doorstops or paperweights. when they get to the smith, they become real.