Looking for some info on C-Max gravers

berkswerx

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Apr 25, 2015
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Hey, I am new to this computer thing, but I've been engraving for about 8 years. I was doing it in prison and am self-taught for the most part. I ended up making most of my gravers myself from M42 blanks, and I've been pretty successful at that. I use them bent to get off of my work, which is mostly buckles. I just got out of prison, so now I can use the net and discovered this site. What I would like to know is if I can bend the C-Max stuff without messing it up. I'm thinking off the too to submerge the tip in water, torch it, and then bend it how I want it. That's how I did my cobalt stuff, but I did it before I hardened/tempered them. I don't know anything about carbide. Does anyone know if I can do this? I engrave a lot of stainless stuff, but I guess ya'll know it's like carving granite with a sharp stick. I am trying to attach a picture of a couple of buckles, and if it's successful, I would like some critiques.
 

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Brian Marshall

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One word. No.

Can't bend CMax or any of the other exotic carbide alloys...

They aren't really metal in the full sense of the word.

Created of powdered metal sintered under extreme heat & pressure. Which snaps or shatters if you try to bend it.


I've not tried soldering a piece of CMax underneath a HSS blank to create clearance - but it does work (or did) with the old NGraver carbides...

Still have a coupla those lying around and use them occasionally.


The problem is mainly in "wetting" the carbide with the silver solder. If you can get that to happen on the CMax it may work?

One caveat. Some properties change when these newer alloys get up to 1,200+ and they don't seem to hold an edge as well.


Brian


Oh yeah, DON'T quench after soldering!
 
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Ron Spokovich

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Brian is correct on both counts. Forget the bending. Bending a 'holder', and notching out from the underneath plus brazing or silver soldering a piece of carbide onto it may do the trick. There would be a shoulder for the carbide to abut against, rather than rely only on the shear strength of the brass or silver solder alone. Today's carbides are different from those of yesteryear, and back in the old days of machine shops, where we routinely did such things, we did not have the 'shock grades' of carbides that are out there now. You'd just have to try out a few samples to see if they work out, but it's not an impossibility to hit it just right. Good luck!
 

Brian Marshall

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Ron described pretty much exactly what I did.

The oldest ones I made were carbide pieces soldered to 1/8" or 3/32" key stock.

Later on I had a few HSS experimental gravers I made with geometries that failed spectacularly, so I used those as shanks.


Again, unless someone else chimes in who has actually soldered CMax - you will be the first to try.

I only know from personal experience that the older carbide does work...


Brian
 
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Marrinan

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Hi and welcome to the forum. If the buckles posted are typical of your work there would be no reason to use a bent graver. A little time spent here and over at the Steve Lindsay forum will give you several ideas on how to properly hold a graver which would provide with some ideas of better ways to hold the tool. Check out some of the tutorial threads on this site to help with design and shading. The prison at Cannon City Colorado was famous for the bit, spur and leather work they produced. Again welcome to the forum, Fred
 

monk

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welcome to the forum. i have bent & tempered everything from tiny little gravers, to giant chisels made from axle steel. never tried the carbides. if your working soft metals for buckles-- plain ole hss will serve you well. hss can usually be bent with heat without ruining the temper.
 

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