Question: Punch Dot Background - How to

dlilazteca

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are the otto beading tools numbered like the Ngraver ones, for example is the otto #2 the same size as the ngraver

and what does revere required mean? (called otto, they stated revere required, means those tools are required for Mr. Reverre's class has nothing to do with the tool itself) and that they are 2 1/2 inches long, forgot to ask about the diameter.

Otto Info:

153.161 No. 0 0.25mm Revere REQUIRED
153.162 No. 1 0.30mm
153.163 No. 2 0.35mm
153.164 No. 3 0.40mm
153.165 No. 4 0.45mm
153.166 No. 5 0.50mm
153.167 No. 6 0.55mm
153.168 No. 7 0.60mm
153.169 No. 8 0.65mm
153.170 No. 9 0.70mm
153.171 No. 10 0.75mm Revere REQUIRED
153.172 No. 11 0.80mm
153.173 No. 12 0.85mm Revere REQUIRED
153.174 No. 13 0.90mm
153.175 No. 14 0.95mm Revere REQUIRED
153.176 No. 15 1.00mm
153.177 No. 16 1.05mm Revere REQUIRED
153.178 No. 17 1.10mm
153.179 No. 18 1.15mm Revere REQUIRED
153.180 No. 19 1.20mm
153.181 No. 20 1.25mm
153.182 No. 21 1.30mm
153.183 No. 22 1.35mm
 
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Brian Marshall

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No. They are not related.

Revere REQUIRED means required for stone setting class students at Alan's school in San Francisco...

I use a somewhat different collection in my stone setting workshop.

Keep in mind that these were never designed to use as background tools struck by hammers or hammer handpieces to mash into metal... though I see an awful lot of squashed beads in modern day stone setting. Mostly on knives. Not something ever taught here.

They are intended to be mounted in a handle and using the hand - gently rolled and rotated to form a nice rounded top "bead" to secure stones. NOT hammered into any metal by force - for either stonesetting or backgrounding. They may kinda work, but making what you need will always be better...

They are shorter (55 to 60mm) than the NGraver bead punches (72mm) and only 2.5 to 3mm in width. NGravers are 6.5mm.

IMO the walls of the cup as well as the "meat" in the NGraver tool is far stronger and more durable for backgrounding purposes.

It should be. It WAS designed for backgrounding on hard metals! The stonesetters beading tool was not.

Takes less than 10 minutes with a torch and beading block (plus some skill) - start to finish - to bring one down to any size you may need.


Brian
 
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dlilazteca

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going to have to measure the Ngraver punches, they are very good dont get me wrong, but since they mentioned these standing up to stainless steel and there less than a dollar each, worth a try
 

Andrew Biggs

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Busch make a very nice beading tool for jewellery. It would be the best I have ever used for stone setting. The finished polish it has, and imparts on the bead, is suburb.

But...........I've never tried it on steel. Then again, on steel, as a background, you don't really want a high polish finish.

Those Swiss Otto Frei ones that Mitch is referring to sound like they would be worth a go in the smaller sizes.

And yes, learning to make some punches with heat treating is always a good idea. For reasons that Brian said, but more importantly, so that you are not restricted to just whatever you can buy.

Cheers
Andrew
 

Haraga.com

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Ok then. Make sure you get the beading block also because you will need it.
 

Brian Marshall

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Without a torch, some knowledge and skills - the beading block by itself is not going to perform the resizing operation.

But there's probably a "class" (instructional video) on how to do it on youtube? For free...


B.

And oh yeah, there's several kinds of beading blocks. Only one works for resizing and the others don't. They only re-form the thin walls of the cup when they get distorted.
 
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mitch

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Keep in mind that these were never designed to use as background tools struck by hammers or hammer handpieces to mash into metal... NOT hammered into any metal by force - for either stonesetting or backgrounding. They may kinda work, but making what you need will always be better...

Brian

and yet, that's zactly what i've been doing with 'em in SS and they're holding up beautifully.
 

RDP

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This may be of help,
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bead...Setting-Tools-Bead-Grain-Tools/825886700.html

I bought a set and thought they where not harden enough to do background on mild steel, and had a go at hardening with the oxy torch, you know the usual way and quench in water, I found they harden quite well, they work great, so I bought another set for spares, and the second set was hard as they should be, for the money I have spent, I am very happy with them,

Richard.
 

mitch

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First off you are not exactly a beginner or a hobbyist, Mitch...

Second, do you know which stainless steel you are hammering them into?

Got an idea what the hardness might be?

Or does the SS stand for sterling silver?


B.

1st- some days i'm not so sure.

2nd- not sure, maybe 'royalloy' 416. not terribly hard.

3rd- stainless is almost certainly below 30Rc. no clue on tool hardness.

4th- i wish.
 
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